Adding accessories to a 93 1100

[PmodelinUS]

So I saw with great joy the mention of a 5 amp accessory fuse. This would make adding my USB c easy so I thought. Then I started looking for it and it was nowhere to be found. So I got out my shop manual and looked at the schematic for my 93 to search and search for this fabled accessory fuse. Alas, I could not find it. So out of desperation I looked on the 95 and up schematic and there it was the fabled . Then I remember hearing that was only on the 40 amp 95 and up bikes.

So question then becomes do I just tap off an existing fuse or add an additional fuse block. I do have a 40 amp alternator. The bike has heated grips which i have to look but I think are tapped into the headlights.

Since I am a non abs I have space under the original fuse block to sneak another one in?

Only other electrical upgrades will be addition led brake light bar.

Thanks in advance as always.

 

[kiltman]

I would add an additional fuse block, stick it in the tail section. It will make your life easier for adding them heated gear you’ve been lusting after…power a gps….power your phone.

 

[PmodelinUS]

Well I found how the grips are wired. Nice job added a single 5 amp fuse for them. Now to find out why only one grip is working other than they control box looks right out of the 90s.

Any suggestions on a box. My plan was to add it under the fuse box. Its non abs so I have room for a second one right there.

 

[PmodelinUS]

My thoughts.

 

[Pop-Pop]

So I saw with great joy the mention of a 5 amp accessory fuse. This would make adding my USB c easy so I thought. Then I started looking for it and it was nowhere to be found. So I got out my shop manual and looked at the schematic for my 93 to search and search for this fabled accessory fuse. Alas, I could not find it. So out of desperation I looked on the 95 and up schematic and there it was the fabled . Then I remember hearing that was only on the 40 amp 95 and up bikes.

So question then becomes do I just tap off an existing fuse or add an additional fuse block. I do have a 40 amp alternator. The bike has heated grips which i have to look but I think are tapped into the headlights.

Since I am a non abs I have space under the original fuse block to sneak another one in?

Only other electrical upgrades will be addition led brake light bar.

Thanks in advance as always.

I had mine done ten amp. Tire pumps and air mattress pumps, at least mine, work better. I installed a two outlet usb in the left fairing pocket. All of my electricals can b charged as i go along. Earbuds, phone, jump kit, etc.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Put it in the tailpiece - a lot easier to remove the seat if you need to get to it, than remove the seat, remove the saddlebag, then remove the side panel.
The theory is you should never have to get to it if everything is 'wired correctly'.
Great theory until you have heated gear and the connector to one of the gloves shorts out and it is really cold outside - and you're on a long trip.
And you blow several fuses before you finally figure out what is causing the problem by chance.

I put a heavy gauge fused wire directly from the battery to the fuse blocks in the tailpiece and fire the circuit with a heavy amp relay because I only want it on when the key is on. I've had great success with BlueSea Marine fuse blocks designed for use in boats (so moisture is not an issue with them).

 

[PmodelinUS]

Y'all know I have never done this before and only have a small clue about what I'm doing right! Not smart enough to know what I'm doing but too dumb to knot figure it out. Lol.

 

[Sunday Rider]

I added a fuse block under the headlight (triangle area) and used Velcro to attach so you can get at it without taking anything off. If your accessories will be up in the front, it would make sense to put it there and vice versa. I used a Centech II and a relayed setup from Eastern Beaver, at least 10 years ago and still going strong. It has 2 outlets that are always live, I have the GPS wired to that and the rest come live when the bike fires up. Aux lights, aux fuel pump are wired through there as well.
Eastern Beaver link
I have no electrical talent, so if I can, then you can too.

 

[ST Gui]

And you blow several fuses before you finally figure out what is causing the problem by chance.

The reality of how most troubleshooting is conducted. DAMHIKT.

but too dumb to knot figure it out. Lol.

I see what you did there!

 

[SMSW]

Blue Sea has a number of very nice fuse boxes - to to their website and look at all the models. Pick the one you like, then do a search for it - Amazon has quite a few of them at good prices. I put two eastern beaver PC8's on my ST and VStrom. They make a wiring harness and you can decide if you want 2 unswitched fuses as well as the 6 that shut down with the ignition switch. A simple jumper will give you all 8 fuses that power down w/ the ignition. There are other options. Go to the blue band atop this page, right end to Search. Click on it and enter 'fuse box' or 'fuse panel' and read other threads. There are at least half a dozen diffeent brands you can use - even some electronic ones that are very expensive.

 

[STRider]

Y'all know I have never done this before and only have a small clue about what I'm doing right! Not smart enough to know what I'm doing but too dumb to knot figure it out. Lol.

I have a lot of respect for a person willing to admit the limits of their skills! You'll find both ends of that continuum here.

I mean here, like right here.
This guy ←

 

[PmodelinUS]

Well like many I grew up watching my dad as a kid work on everything. Now as an adult I watch lots of you tube videos on how to do stuff.

 

[Erdoc48]

I’m in the limited skills camp, that said, with help of people here, I have accomplished quite a bit on my bikes without having them become a smoldering pile of garbage (and I agree with PmodelinUS, YT does help quite a bit)!

 

[STFlips]

Here is my aux box by Eastern Beaver in the tail, relay at top to energize circuits when key is on. There are two circuits "always on" as well. There is a plastic cover not shown.

 

[STRider]

On my ST1100 I put my simple fuseblock on the left side of the portion of the fuel tank that extends up under the shelter (false tank cover).

I used zip ties to hold it in place, wrapped around that upper section. It's worked for me for about twenty years with no issues, however the next time I'm 'under the hood' as it were, I plan to back the zip ties up with some 3M VHB tape for more security.

Were I to do it again I'd use either the FZ-1 Fuseblock or the one sold by Eastern Beaver PC-8 with a relay. That's the plan for my 1300 when I reach the farkle threshold that demands it.

 

[Sadlsor]

Put it in the tailpiece - a lot easier to remove the seat if you need to get to it, than remove the seat, remove the saddlebag, then remove the side panel.

I have the 13, but this was still my first thought... why remove panels at all, when you can get to it easier under the seat?
Plus, there is plenty of room back there without having to shoehorn a fuse block into all the wiring and mechanical components under the dressing. No tools required for inspection / modification.
Ain't it great to have choices!

 

[Uncle Phil]

I have the 13, but this was still my first thought... why remove panels at all, when you can get to it easier under the seat?
Plus, there is plenty of room back there without having to shoehorn a fuse block into all the wiring and mechanical components under the dressing. No tools required for inspection / modification.
Ain't it great to have choices!

As I said, the location doesn't matter - til it matters.
And it will generally be on the side of the road in 'inconvenient' weather and in an 'inconvenient' spot!

What caught me out was where the wire from the jacket liner for the glove had broken the insulation right at the connector.
When you moved the glove just right, the two bare wires (couldn't see it real easy) would touch and blow a fuse.
The problem was you had to turn the glove a certain way for it to happen.

Uncle Phil - West 2009 Day 06

Uncle Phil - West 2009 Day 08

 

[PmodelinUS]

OK so I guess my big question is where do I grab the power from?

 

[Sadlsor]

OK so I guess my big question is where do I grab the power from?

Tail light or battery (close by and convenient to the tail) are frequently selected for power, but many people (including @Uncle Phil ) recommend a relay, as well.
Detailed instructions are found in our Articles, as well as YouTube.
Some smart person may actually include a link, instead of using vague generalities as I tend to do...

 

[Larry Fine]

OK so I guess my big question is where do I grab the power from?

If you use as relay, the power it switches should come directly from the battery, through a fuse or a fusible link. The wire should be heavy enough for everything it powers, the fuse large enough for that current, yet small enough to protect that wire. Any ground wire that also carries that load should be equally as large.

The wiring that controls that relay can be as small as the bike's factory wiring, like 16 or 18 gauge. It can be fed from almost any switched wire on the bike. If you want the accessories only powered when the engine is running, you can connect it to a wire coming from the load (switched) side of the engine kill switch.