Air cleaner connecting boots remounting. What’s your secret?

Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Messages
27
Location
Calif
I had to remove it to do some inspections and now I can’t get it back on. The boots need to be lined up with their perspective grooves and that is the problem. I can’t figure out how so the screws line up and everything sets in place. I’m stuck!
Looking for someone to be a hero.

242134

242135
 
I had to remove it to do some inspections and now I can’t get it back on. The boots need to be lined up with their perspective grooves and that is the problem. I can’t figure out how so the screws line up and everything sets in place. I’m stuck!
Looking for someone to be a hero.

The carbs have to be loosened, in relation to each other, before you will ever get that snorkel assembly re-mounted to the carbs. Once you get the snorkel assembly screwed back onto the carbs, tighten up the screws holding the carbs together.
 
The carbs have to be loosened, in relation to each other, before you will ever get that snorkel assembly re-mounted to the carbs. Once you get the snorkel assembly screwed back onto the carbs, tighten up the screws holding the carbs together.
I was trying to avoid that. The carbs are still fully mounted. The only way I know how to loosen the carbs is to completely remove them which means I have to remove the pocket fairing pieces on both side and that is a lot of extra work I didn't want to do. Guess I have no choice.
Thanks for your input Bush.
 
I had to remove it to do some inspections and now I can’t get it back on. The boots need to be lined up with their perspective grooves and that is the problem. I can’t figure out how so the screws line up and everything sets in place. I’m stuck!
Looking for someone to be a hero.

242134

242135
try sticking a long skinny screw driver in the screw hole and align the holes 1 by 1. Keeping light pressure on the unit till they are in line. The carbs should flex a bit till the guide pins are in place. It should not take a lot of movement to line it up.
 
I was trying to avoid that. The carbs are still fully mounted.

AHHH!! Yes, that makes this a bit more of a problem and if you do pull the carbs, you might want to consider new isolator boots for them. Al's idea might work, but I know I spent about two hours trying to get those separated parts together again, with the carbs off, before I realized the solution was loosening the carb bodies.
 
Bit the bullet and removed the carbs and loosened them. Aligning the boots was still not as easy as I wanted but I got it done. Probably wouldn’t have been able too without the carbs removed. I’m going to use the existing boots and hope for the best. I did replace them all a few years ago the last time I removed the cards and they are still very pliable. I think they will be ok as long as the clamps are snug. Syncing the carbs should give me my answer

Thanks to those of you that helped.
 
If it's not too late, replace the boot clamp screws with allen head screws. Much easier to tighten without rotating the clamp around the boot.
 
Yea - That Was a VERY tight fit to reassemble that carb bowl on mine.
NEVER would have taken it off if I'd known Honda used
alignment DOWELS on the bottom side. Think I sanded and tapered them just a bit. Took a LONG time to get it back on,
WITHOUT loosening the Carbs.
Never had it off again !!
 
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Can someone please tell me where this hose connects? All the tagging and drawings I did before the carb removal missed this one and I can’t find where. The Honda service manual hasn’t been any help. Please don’t tell me I have to remove the carbs again but the way things have been going on this job I won’t be surprised.

Thanks

242389
 
Thats a tough one. Cant see Pic too well. Sould be able to tell by the length,
approx. where it goes. Yes-that bike
had vac. & fuel system hoses all over
the top end - So I hardly ever
pulled them off.
 
Found a post that showed me where it goes. It does not connect to anything. The end stays open and is held in place by a bracket. It appears to be necessary to put fresh air in the carb chamber for CA emissions. No carb removal necessary.
 
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Can someone please tell me where this hose connects? All the tagging and drawings I did before the carb removal missed this one and I can’t find where. The Honda service manual hasn’t been any help.
Air Vent Control Valve. Page 1-31 in my Honda Service Manual. HTH

John
 
Carb sync dialed in perfectly and I finally got to use my SK flow meter thet I bought several years ago. Got it all back together and my problem has been solved.

Here is what initiated the original problem and help request and I THANK YOU ALL THAT DID

I don’t ride the 1100 that often these days. I do live in S Cali. and the weather does permit but I don’t.
It sits in my garage for months at a time and I try to start it up often just to avoid any problems it might get by just sitting. The other day I tried to start it and it would only idle roughly on full choke and die at any other setting even after it warmed up. Throttle accelerator only made it stall. My first thought was the fuel had gone bad sitting for so long so I drained it and put in new fuel. Didn’t help. My next solution was to put in some Sea Foam. I had a can and gave it a try but it also didn’t help. This same thing happened before and the solution was to remove the carbs, remove the float bowl covers and clean the high and low speed jets which is what I did. Now all is good.

I am thinking about putting a small fuel pitcock in line with the fuel line to the cards under the seat. That way I can shut off the fuel and run the engine till the float bowls are empty and the sitting fuel won’t clog the jets over time. I’ll have to remove the set each time but it’s a lot easier then removing the carbs.

Stabil has also been added to the fuel in the tank.

Cheers!
 
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I am thinking about putting a small fuel pitcock in line with the fuel line to the cards under the seat. That way I can shut off the fuel and run the engine till the float bowls are empty and the sitting fuel won’t clog the jets over time. I’ll have to remove the set each time but it’s a lot easier then removing the carbs.
or just use the carb drains?
 
Or: pull off the power feed to the fuel pump and stop the fuel flow that way. Take the seat off, look at the top of the fuel pump mounting flange and remove the brown/red wire from the spade terminal.

Draining the float bowls using the screws is the more complete way to empty those, but they are tricky to find when the carbs are installed.
 
Draining the float bowls using the screws is the more complete way to empty those, but they are tricky to find when the carbs are installed.

One might even say damn near impossible to find! Even with all the plastic off!
 
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