Another battery tender question

Joined
Dec 2, 2009
Messages
888
Location
Oxnard, CA
Bike
2013 650 vSTrom
STOC #
8099
I've read that some folks keep the cables from the tender hooked to the battery at all times, therefore you don't need to remove the seat and side cover to hook up the tender. Just plug her in and let her charge.

Can you show me some examples of how you have the cables attached for easy charging.........:)
 
I do not have any photos of how I had mine hooked up. I just ran the plug down the left side of the battery box and had it come out under the battery between the battery and the lower frame where the passenger foot peg is.

After I put in my powerlet, I hooked up a powerlet plug to the tender wires that had the battery clips on them. I cut off the clips and wired it into the powerlet plug. Now I just plug the tender into the powerlet. This will only work if you have the powerlet hot off the battery all the time.
 
When I bought my bike used, PO had attached the short terminal lead and ran it up under the seat. Popping the seat off to connect is no big deal and reminds me that I have something attached to the bike so I don't accidently ride off dragging the BT behind me...lol. Just installed a new Scorpion and reinstalled the leads as previously placed, short lead never moved. The plug has a cap on it to keep the terminals clean when not connected.
 
From the battery, the cable will reach out under the seat on right side. I can disconnect and slip it under the lip of the seat, no problem. ( oh, I have a Sargent Seat, ) In summer I don't use the charger, and the lead is more permanently hidden under the seat.
 
I ran this connector from the unswitched power connection of my aux fuse box in the tail of the bike down to the rear shock adjuster knob and cable tied it there. I "tend" the battery through the aux fuse box.

http://www.powerletproducts.com/product/heavy-duty-sae-battery-lead-48/108

Since my bike is black, you can't see it in a picture. You can hardly see it while looking at it.
 
I just use the connector for my heated vest.I have that attached to the terminals directly. It's always just peaking out the left edge of the front seat, against the tank. Just plug in and charge away. Easy. Marty
 
I have used the standard pigtail that comes with the Battery Tender Plus on four bikes. On the ST it runs up nicely under the pillion seat and is secured by the strap. I prefer it hidden away and it's so easy to take the seat on and off. Plus as someone mentioned, it's a bit harder to try and drive out the garage with it plugged in!!!!
 
Thanks for the replys. I think I'll use the 'ol tuck under the seat method. I like the idea of having to remove the seat, don't ride off the the tender connected method, since I tend to forget something because I'm all reved up ready to ride!
 
I see you've already decided on your point of attack, but thought I'd toss in my .02 cents worth. I, too, went with the Powerlet outlet installed just below the RH fairing box. Ran the power back to the tailsection, where I have my fuseblock located. The fuseblock is then hardwired to the battery (so the only lines I have off my battery are the original cables and the + and - to the fuseblock.

I plug my ST into the battery tender as soon as I get home from a ride....long, short, whatever, and it stays plugged in until I put my gloves and helmet on for the next ride.

Does it work? All I know is the bike is an '04 and I'm still on the original battery (knock on wood!).
 
I see you've already decided on your point of attack, but thought I'd toss in my .02 cents worth. I, too, went with the Powerlet outlet installed just below the RH fairing box. Ran the power back to the tailsection, where I have my fuseblock located. The fuseblock is then hardwired to the battery (so the only lines I have off my battery are the original cables and the + and - to the fuseblock.

I plug my ST into the battery tender as soon as I get home from a ride....long, short, whatever, and it stays plugged in until I put my gloves and helmet on for the next ride.

Does it work? All I know is the bike is an '04 and I'm still on the original battery (knock on wood!).

Now that looks like the thing to do---------^^
Thanks for your .02 cents
 
I see you've already decided on your point of attack, but thought I'd toss in my .02 cents worth. I, too, went with the Powerlet outlet installed just below the RH fairing box. Ran the power back to the tailsection, where I have my fuseblock located. The fuseblock is then hardwired to the battery (so the only lines I have off my battery are the original cables and the + and - to the fuseblock.

I plug my ST into the battery tender as soon as I get home from a ride....long, short, whatever, and it stays plugged in until I put my gloves and helmet on for the next ride.

Does it work? All I know is the bike is an '04 and I'm still on the original battery (knock on wood!).

As an FYI- I did it without totally removing the RH fairing. It was a PTIA to do (especially threading the locknut on the bottom of the Powerlet socket), but I did it in the interest of simplicity. If I were to do it again, I would remover the middle fairing. Also, when I run my wires from the fuseblock up to the fairing area (I have driving lights, fog lights and the Powerlet running from the fuseblock), I used either 1/2" or 1/4" split loom for the wiring. Keeps it all nice and tidy. Also, I power my GPS from the Powerlet when I'm riding, so the Powerlet serves more than one function.
 
The connector is tied to the plastic battery protector through two of the three slots there and when not in use it is tucked behind the frame

Have you given any thought to in some way cover or shield the "hot connector lead" from the battery?


Cheers,
 
Here is :tc1: more for ya to think about... Notice that st11ray & racer1735 both mentioned a fuse block. Having just bought, but not picked up (AAArrrgh!), my first ST, I can't speak to the particulars of mounting an outlet. However, having created more than one rat's nest of wires coming off of a motorcycle battery, I have already ordered an auxiliary fuse block. Sadly, you missed the group buy by a few days, but here is the link to the one I'm getting: http://www.cyclenutz.com/products/e...e_panel_relays/fuzeblock_fuse_block_fz-1.html

Here is a link to an MOA (BMW Motorcycle owners of America) article: http://www.cyclenutz.com/documents/reviews/fuzeblock_MOA_article.pdf

On my Ninja I made a distribution block (quite simple), but here is why I ordered the "fuzeblock" fuse block:
1: It is designed such that you can very easily change an entire accessory circuit (say, heated gloves or gear) from "on only when the key is on" to "on all the time," by simply moving a fuse. I will go to whatever trouble it takes to mount the fuzeblock in an easily accessible place.
2: At any time in the future adding a fused accessory circuit will be a piece of cake (and all should be properly fused!!) (Have you ever seen a guy try to extinguish a fire on a motorcycle? It isn't a pretty sight!!)
3: It appears to be a well thought out and quality piece of work (Will post again when I get it.)

Good luck!!

Rod
:old1:
 
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Hey Rod, check this out for mounting your fuse box: http://www.MCL OUT OF BUSINESS - DO...n_page=product_info&cPath=1_3&products_id=309

This is the fuse box I used: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html


Here is :tc1: more for ya to think about... Notice that st11ray & racer1735 both mentioned a fuse block. Having just bought, but not picked up (AAArrrgh!), my first ST, I can't speak to the particulars of mounting an outlet. However, having created more than one rat's nest of wires coming off of a motorcycle battery, I have already ordered an auxiliary fuse block. Sadly, you missed the group buy by a few days, but here is the link to the one I'm getting: http://www.cyclenutz.com/products/e...e_panel_relays/fuzeblock_fuse_block_fz-1.html

Here is a link to an MOA (BMW Motorcycle owners of America) article: http://www.cyclenutz.com/documents/reviews/fuzeblock_MOA_article.pdf

On my Ninja I made a distribution block (quite simple), but here is why I ordered the "fuzeblock" fuse block:
1: It is designed such that you can very easily change an entire accessory circuit (say, heated gloves or gear) from "on only when the key is on" to "on all the time," by simply moving a fuse. I will go to whatever trouble it takes to mount the fuzeblock in an easily accessible place.
2: At any time in the future adding a fused accessory circuit will be a piece of cake (and all should be properly fused!!) (Have you ever seen a guy try to extinguish a fire on a motorcycle? It isn't a pretty sight!!)
3: It appears to be a well thought out and quality piece of work (Will post again when I get it.)

Good luck!!

Rod
:old1:
 
Hey Robert,
I'll jump in here too. I hope I don't repeat others that may have recommended this already. Knowing that you just set yourself up for a Garmin, I'd recommend using the cig outlet to hook up the tender. If you hooked yours up like mine, going straight to the battery, you can use one of these: SAE connector to cigarette male

I need to do the same thing. I haven't bought a tender yet. I'm liking the Optimate 4.
 

I'm happy with my more versatile fuse block... I disagree with Jim's reasoning that "2 - Why not give a choice of placing each fuse either switched or unswitched?
- answer: I feel this is not a good idea. It allows possible over capacity of the unswitched circuits by the customer, and could create a possible unbalanced or overload situation." I'm fully capable of not overloading the one I got. Jim's has a greater power capacity, but the Fuzeblock has more than enough for my needs. That said, Jim (easternbeaver) has a great site with lots of goodies. Will probably be getting something there. His little 3 circuit solution (W 1 circuit un-switched) would have been perfect for my Ninja! Good deal if one is certain one knows all the accessories one will need.

Re: The mounting bracket... Since I don't have the ST yet, where am I looking in his picture? Looks like it might be looking back to the tail section. Is that it? By the way, his bottom right fuse block picture is the one I got.

Thanks for the info,

Rod

PS: Got the Fuzeblock in the mail today. It is an elegant, versatile, very well made, and compact unit. Very happy with it!
 
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