Anti Squeal plates

[thebigone]

Hi folks,
Was wondering what your opinion is on the Anti Squeal plates on the 1300 would you fit them or not???

regards Chris

 

[thebigone]

Hi Igofar,
So you have heard about the white spacer. I rang my steller and they did not know what I was on about, I was thinking that the last owner must have put them in for whatever reason. SO I was not going to put them back in, SHOULD I.

The plates I was refering to is the thin metal plate with holes in that clips over the brake pads. Having had a number of diffrent bikes not all have them, so wondering if they where needed, bearing in mind the number of issues we seem to have with dragging brakes.

thanks

 

[st1300r]

Why wouldn't you? Just curious.

The perforated pads on the back side of the OEMs sometimes come off getting them out of the shrink wrap cardboard.
I'd clip it back on and slap em in. If forget it the EBC pads come with it.

Make sure the spring in the calliper is in place sometimes it'll fall out when you pull the pads.

 

[thebigone]

Why wouldn't you? Just curious.

it was a question, like I said there is a lot of posts about the rear brake dragging. The Steller said he would take them off, and like I said they did not seem to know about the plastic white spacer. They are not in my manual and I can't see why we would need them, would the piston not take up that gap??
I am renewing all my o rings dust seal pins and bolts along with rubber boots. She is an 02 with 100,000 on the clock, so this is well over due. I think I will play it by ear and see how the brakes beform when they are in, from my other post, I don't think mu pistons where working at all of the 9, I would say 6 or may be 7 where stuck along with the SMC, I also think the last owner had the seal and spring in the rear master cylinder the wrong way around.

I will go with what is in the manual.

Regards Chris

 

[nhdiesel]

I'm on my 2nd set of ebc and have had no problems in 40k miles with them. Not saying they are better...or worse...just no problems. If the Stealer didn't take 2 weeks to get parts, I might run OEM, but Tim gets my pads to me in a couple days.

As for the original question, run the pads with what Honda had there.

Sent from my LG-US670 using Tapatalk 2

 

[thebigone]

That Ok thanks, why ? cant I see the white spacers in the spec in the manual.

The parts guy at the Stelers is old LOL

So do I still put greese on the back of the metal plate or is that what they are for? and the same for the white plates

Cheers

 

[st1300r]

I've never put silicone brake grease on them.
Then again I didn't stay at a Motion Pro last night...

 

[nhdiesel]

I use a small amount of silicone on the pins and the contact point of the pads where they slide. I ride in all weather and live in a humid area, so this helps keep the pads from sticking and the pins and slides from corroding. Its the same thing I do with cage brakes, though no other shop in our area does (just slap the pads in).

Jim

 

[wjbertrand]

Those pads perform two important functions in my mind. First they damp vibration that leads to brake noise and secondly they isolate the pistons from the heat of the brake pad. Without the isolator, heat has a direct path through the metal piston to the brake fluid - no bueno. The front brakes receive far more cooling air flow than the rear ones do.

 

[dduelin]

Some people leave the backing plates out for various reasons but I think Honda knows best so I wouldn't remove the backing plates. I only use Honda OEM pads so my experience is limited to the perforated stainless steel plates that come with those pads. As for the retaining pins some people grease them but Honda doesn't say to grease the pins so I don't.

 

[dduelin]

A little grease mixed with road dust and grit makes a dandy grinding paste. I don't think Honda made a mistake in assembling them dry but everyone is free to do as they please. My pins and calipers still original at 112,000 miles. No sticking, no corrosion, in a warm subtropical environment.

 

[nhdiesel]

warm subtropical environment

Ride in road salt 2-3 months out of the season. Motorcycles weren't intended to ride in a salty environment, so I'm sure the engineers never considered that. All of my training and experience working on cages and bikes says to make sure everything is well lubed. Jut one of the adjustments we have to make in the north. Almost 73k on my '06 and everything except the pads & fluid is still original and working well.

 

[wjbertrand]

Taking into consideration that the service manual is typed up and printed by a different company (not honda) its not surprizing that alot of stuff is either missed or incorrect. This goes for most all motorcycle service manuals. I find Yamaha the worst.

Who types up and prints something is far different from who provided the written content. I'm sure the content of the service manuals were written by Honda personnel.

 

[dduelin]

There are spelling and grammar errors in this short thread. Is it surprising a technical manual has a few errors in it? Tough crowd.

 

[Al Gully]

Great to hear that I am not the only one that takes these shop manuals with a grain of salt.

As for torque values, I have heard and read on here that some of them are also wrong.

Currently and for the last 30 years I have been using my German torque wrench instead of the values in the manual. My 4 un-calibrated torque wrenchs stay in my tool box.

German torque wrench stands for "Goodintight"
If I ever had to re-install my heads, that would be the only time I would use a torque wrench.
You can't buy experience.