Audio vox cruise control issue

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I installed the audiovox cruise control last year on my 2010 ST1300 and it has worked flawleesly until last month.

Under 70 MPH it works like a champ no problemsat all.

Over 70 it does not want to catch and if it does catch it does not like to hold the speed at all drops in and out.

I have gone thru the electrical connections with a fine tooth comb and found no problems what so ever.

However, I have not checked the vacuume side yet and I remimber that I had to use and old check valve that I got second hand, as I forgot to buy a new one before the day of installation.

I am thinking that the check valve could be the problem or some form of vacuume leak?

Would you all suggest that I replace the check valve and thourghtly inspect all the vacuum lines?

Thanks
 

sirepair

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I would check/replace the vacuum valve and, if you don't already have one, add a vacuum tank or at least a few feet of hose coiled up. If that doesn't take care of issues, you may need to change your linkage setup.
 
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it's been some time since i was dealing with a vacume opperated CC but, i would look to setting the gain to something more responsive to high speed and see to it that there's a vacume reservoir, large enought to allow the servo to make changes with authority. and reroute if you can to make all hoses both "kink" resistant AND as short as possible.( considering up grading to a larger sized hoses) by all means, do inspect this system, while open! the valve has to opperate at a fairly high cycle rate....if you have doubts, try running with out one.
 
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The check valve can be checked by blowing through it. The check valve could also be removed for a test ride. I ran for many miles without a check valve and the cruise worked good, it's just a little better with the check valve. I had a problem with purchased a vacuum canister that after several hundred miles changed to a vacuum canister/check valve. I switched the lines on the canister and it has been working fine.
 
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I would check/replace the vacuum valve and, if you don't already have one, add a vacuum tank or at least a few feet of hose coiled up. If that doesn't take care of issues, you may need to change your linkage setup.
Pat, It would take over a hundred feet of hose vacuum hose to equal what a 2"x 6" canister will hold. Don't add extra hose for vacuum volume.
 

sirepair

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Pat, It would take over a hundred feet of hose vacuum hose to equal what a 2"x 6" canister will hold. Don't add extra hose for vacuum volume.
I didn't, but others have! This is *for testing purposes only*

(Sorry, forgot the disclaimer: YMMV; all weights approximate; do not imerse in water; contents may be hot; may contain peanuts or peanut products; hermatically sealed for your protection; use only with adult supervision; objects in mirror are closer than they appear)
 
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it might be only 100 foot to equal the volume BUT, the resistance generated by such length would slow the flow down to a trickle...ever try blowing air thru a 1/4"id hose that's 100 foot long? or worse 3/16ths"? worse than nothing!
 

Marshal_Mercer

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I installed the audiovox cruise control last year on my 2010 ST1300 and it has worked flawlessly until last month.

Under 70 MPH it works like a champ no problems at all.

Over 70 it does not want to catch and if it does catch it does not like to hold the speed at all drops in and out.
By design, the AudioVox cruise control is RPM limited for safety reasons; it was meant to be used on low RPM cars. Some come on sooner than others. You may be able to cheat this somewhat by setting the CC at 70 mph, then accelerating to 75 mph using the ACC button.
Marshal
 
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Marshal_Mercer

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It knows the RPM?
I should have said PPM (Pulses Per Mile) rather than RPM. That is what the Blue Wire --the one that connects to the coil-- does. That plus the DIP selection of the PPM scale, 4,000 has been suggested by some installers, sets the upper RPM limit. If 4,000 PPM is really 4,000 RPM, then the ST1300's speed would be 69 MPH in 5th gear. If you want your cruise control speed limit set for 89 MPH (5,000 RPM), then set DIP #1 to OFF and DIP #2 to ON.

Marshal

PS The following is from a Miata website. Read the second to last paragraph.
"
So, I got it all in and rechecked my connections (including the RSW connection, the grey wire, to the speedometer), and took to the open road. Accelerating to 45 MPH or so I turned on the unit and pressed the Set button--releasing the accelerator in anticipation of some controlled cruising. I instead got nothing, nada, zip--no cruise control, back to the shop.
I once again checked my wiring, and the control module's DIP switch setup. Everything seemed OK, but on a hunch I changed the Tach signal source to COIL, my reasoning being that the 1.6L Miata doesn't really have a modern type ECM signal (the signal at the diagnostic connector is the same signal that fires the ignitor)--back to the road. Nothing, no cruise control...back to the barn.
I got out my wiring diagrams and looked at the RSW. It's just a reed switch activated by the viscous magnetic coupling in the speedometer, one terminal connected to ground, the other just dead-ended at the RSW terminal. I.e. it is NOT an active signal, it could "pull-down" a signal to ground, but it does not generate any pulses per mile. Remembering the Speed Signal setting (DIP switch 3), I set that to Tach Only and disconnected the gray wire to the RSW terminal--back to open road...
I got up to 45 or so, turned it on and pressed Set, and immediately felt the servo take over, YAY!!! Let's try 60 MPH, says I...
Nothing, it won't lock in. Playing with it I found that it wouldn't Set at any speed over 52 or so, and also 52 was as fast as I could accelerate to using the Accel function--back to the garage...
Trying to control my frustration (and having to get this thing working before the wife got home and found out I blew $100) I got to thinking about this PPM, pulses per mile thing. The manual says this setting works in conjunction with the VSS (RSW in the Miata) signal, which I had now disconnected. But since the Miata uses a wasted spark ignition system I thought I might as well try the 8,000 PPM setting--I mean heck, the worst thing that can happen is that I let the smoke out of my $100 cruise control unit (and she can only kill me once)--back out to open road.
OK, 45 MPH locked, let's go for 60... YAY!!! I'm cooking, so let's find a secluded place where the FHP doesn't go...
Cool, 90 MPH and locked!
That's it--don't bother with the VSS (gray wire), so there's no need to yank the instrument cluster. Set DIP switches 1 & 2 for 8,000 PPM, switch 3 for Tach Only, and switch 7 for ECM (I switched that back when it didn't work on COIL). I used it today on a 100 mile round trip to Jacksonville and found that it worked well, but seemed a bit sluggish on what passes for hills here in NE Florida. I stopped and changed the sensitivity (DIP switches 4 & 5) to LOW (light vehicles with high HP) and that fixed it, it now holds the set speed within +/- 1-1/2 MPH or so.
So, the bottom line is that this is a nice, inexpensive, very compact cruise control kit that works well. The installation instructions are a bit too generic, and use inconsistent nomenclature, and the recommended connections and settings for the NA Miata (at least the 1.6L models) are just plain wrong, but once set up correctly I like it!"
 
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Griffjag
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It used to hold steady at 80 MPH with out a problem. Now it does not I did remove the Check valve and was able to get air to go backwards with alot of resistance. Think the dip switches are set right. Thank you for all your great information. I am going to see if I can find a 1/4 in air check valve in town today.
 

Dinkie Diesel

------------Jeff------------
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Jeff, I just had A similar problem with mine. Used to hold speed pretty well but not perfect. Sometimes it wouldn't catch and hold any speed. I blamed the control switch getting poor contact. That wasn't the problem. Sometimes it would kick off when I used the turn signals. I thought it was due to my trailer wiring. That wasn't the problem.
It finally stopped working altogether. Turns out the red wire was not getting a constant 12 volts. I know you said your connections all look in order but if you can make sure the red wire has 12 volts with the engine and key off.
 
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Griffjag
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question can the Cruise control work without the Check Valve. And Dinkie I think I connected it to a power source only when the key is on.
 

Dinkie Diesel

------------Jeff------------
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Yes, it will work without a check valve, mine has for 3 years without.

Switched power to the red wire is good too as long as you are quite sure it is getting that power to the CC.
 
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hey DD, funny that you had problems with the power wire...as it turned out my old vacume servo unit developed problems with the power wire too...in my case the just the power pin on the terminal strip looked like it had a combination of corrosion and a melted wire on the servo side of the terminal strip...it promped me to ditch the vacume for an electrical model. along with a change in servo location. it's a bit early to declare it clearly better.but i already have more miles on it that the vacume model. and no signs of problems.
 
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Dinkie Diesel

------------Jeff------------
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Waldo, I asked a distributor about the newer, all electric cruise. He claims he still prefers the older vac model. I was ready to trash mine and go the the elec model then I found a broken wire feeding the quartet harness.
 
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Griffjag
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Ok, I have removed the check valve, got the red power wire, a good full time hot connection. The CC will drop out if I hit some bumps or get a good cross wind speed spike. Is that normal or do I need to keep looking? When I drove it 4800 miles with no problems, now it's being picky.
 
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