Audiovox Cruise control question

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So i just got my ST1300 and I am currently (yes already) installing the audiovox cruise control on the bike using "ray's" instructions. i have everything mounted and wired everything. I took it for a test ride and it DID NOT work, so now i'm trying to post for ideas on what might be wrong.




i used the led light test method (in the audiovox instructions) to be sure the switch and brake light sensors were working. but other than that i don't know what could be wrong. HELP.




in the Audiovox instructions it states that if it installed without a VSS/Magnetic pickup then you should remove the black jumper on the servo unit. i tried both ways and it hasn't worked.



is there a minimum speed i need to be moving? (how could it tell with no speed sensor)



i am using the vacuum canister (homemade with ABS Pipe)



i dont want to put the bike back together without the cruise working...
 
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1. Is the check valve installed correctly? (Quick check to flip it around)
2. Does the green light on the control panel turn on when you hit the on button?
I made my first test @ 45mph, but I have since used it at lower mph.
Good Luck
 
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i did double check the valve and it is pulling vacuum on the canister.
the green light comes on and all the voltages are correct per the audiovox's instructions at the 10 pin connector.
i tried it again today and still nothing. no engagement at all.

is there a way to tell if you have a faulty/bad servo unit?
 

Gandolkf

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Sorry your having problems.I installed mine per Ray's instructions everything works fine.
The only thing mine does is after turning on i have to hold the set button down for a couple of seconds,does not engage right away,maybe that it's nature or i left alittle slack in the chain?
is there a minimum speed i need to be moving?
I have used mine as low as 30
 

Kevin_56

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A vacuum test to make sure would be to pull the hose off the servo unit and start the bike and put your thumb/finger over the end of the vacuum line and see if you feel a suction on that line. Some have thought they had the ceck valve installed correctly, when in fact it was wrong.

In my set up I do not use a check valve or a cannister, but that is MY set up and it works just fine, but so does the ones with both.

Kevin
 
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i am getting good vacuum at the servo unit, just checked this morning. anybody know where i can get a replacement servo unit? within driving distance from seattle on a saturday?
 
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since the system does not use speed should work with a high idle , if you have a good ground connection and unit is powered . any add ons to the brake system electrics ? good connection to the coil wire ?, and have the right wire for the brake cut off ?
 
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since the system does not use speed should work with a high idle , if you have a good ground connection and unit is powered . any add ons to the brake system electrics ? good connection to the coil wire ?, and have the right wire for the brake cut off ?
No Add ons to the brake system electronics. great coil connection as far as i know

--------------------

So, in fooling around with the system I hooked up the Gray wire(or at least where the gray wire should be) to direct ground. and while the bike is on center stand (actually not even in gear) the servo unit engages the throttle!

only thing is that it will not hold the throttle in place. i'm guessing that since there is no load on the bike it senses the tach signal going up quick and believes i let the clutch out.

so, is this normal. . . do you always have to ground out the Gray signal wire? or did i miss that in the instructions somewhere?


Would this only work on high idle cause i was testing at like 1500-2000 rpm
 
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The cruise control will not stay engaged on the centerstand. It kicks in but immediately disingages. It sounds like you have it figured out. Take it for a test ride.
 

Blrfl

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The cruise control will not stay engaged on the centerstand.
Mine does. Fired it up, put it in first, gave it a tiny bit of throttle, hit the set button and it spun the rear wheel for as long as I wanted.

--Mark
 
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SUCCESS, not sure why i had to ground that gray wire, but as soon as i did everything worked flawlessly. i wonder if anybody else has had that issue because all the write-ups i've seen just say to cut that wire. fortunately i just depinned it from the plug and snipped the ground instead of cutting it off. that made it easier to add it back and ground it to the frame. i will now be enjoying my commute and all my summer cruises/trips with full on electronic cruise control.
 

Blrfl

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SUCCESS, not sure why i had to ground that gray wire, but as soon as i did everything worked flawlessly. ... that made it easier to add it back and ground it to the frame.
The gray wire is the VSS input, which you don't use on the ST. If grounding it helped, it probably means the DIP switches on the servo are set incorrectly (consult this table) or the unit is poorly grounded. Don't use the frame; get your ground from the same spot where you sourced 12V.

--Mark
 
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i put it all back together before you posted that. is there a convincing reason to take everything apart in order to remove the ground from the frame? and i have always had the switches set with only 1, 4, 7 on and the rest off. that is the first write up i've seen with the jumper addressed though.
 

Blrfl

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I wouldn't tear it apart just for that. There's a slim chance that you'll run into reliability problems over time if the ground goes south, but odds are pretty good it won't. The ST has a lot of spots where dissimilar metals are used in the frame joints. Those spots don't guarantee a good connection, which is why the bike is centrally-grounded.

The jumper probably just affects whether or not the servo will give the throttle a good yank in an attempt to get the transmission to downshift if it wants to pick up a lot of speed.

--Mark
 
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Okay now a new issue. great. So i rode it this morning and everything worked fine as far as the cruise control is concerned. when i left work though it was a different story. for some reason the unit will not stay "on." When i press the on button the LED lights up but when i release the on button it immediately turns off. so now i am not sure what is up. only thing i can think of is maybe there is water in the connector shorting out the off button. (i have the switch sealed with silicone so i don't think it's the switch). i'll let it dry out and see if it helps but thats a hard process to speed up so i just have to wait.
 

Blrfl

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Any chance some of the silicone oozed around to the off part of the switch and is forcing it to make contact?

--Mark
 
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I used the silicone very sparingly and in a manner that wouldn't get onto the circuit board. (due to a screw up on my first switch and having it ooze into the button area) so i am pretty positive there is no silicone in the button area on this switch. also it worked for the last 2 days and the only change was the rain that the bike was subjected to for 8 hours while at work.
 

Blrfl

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The on/off line (and the LED) is latched in by a circuit on the board inside the switch housing, so if the light goes on when you're holding the on button and it goes off when you release it, you've got something shorting the off button. That's either going to be something making the switch contact the traces on the board or it got wet inside, and in either case you may have to take the whole thing apart. If you think it's moisture, you could try disconnecting the switch housing and sealing it in a glass jar with a handful of rice for a few days in a warm spot.

--Mark
 
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