Bad Battery???

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This is on my uncles Goldwing. Less than a year ago I bought a new battery from a local batteries plus store for my uncles bike. The old one was dead and the family wanted to have his bike at the funeral, so I replaced it. Admittedly the bike pretty much sat for the last year, my aunt would start it about once a month and let it run for 5 minutes but I know that not the same as taking it out for a good ride. A family friend got a battery tender and put in on the bike towards the end of summer, so the bike was on it all winter and my aunt would still start it.

Fast forward till last Friday when I go to pick the bike up to show it to a potential buyer, I hit turn the key and hear the full pump cycle and then hit the starter button and just a click, nothing else. Keep in mind I just unhooked the tender. So we my aunts battery charger out and let it charge for 5 minutes and then it fires up. I rode it the 60 miles or so home and shut it off, I immediately tried starting it and it fired up not problem. The next morning I go out to start it and it won't start, charge again 5 minutes and it starts and I leave to meet the buyer. Of course I pull in and put the kick stand down and kill the bike doing so, it won't restart. Luckily we meet where I could go in and get jumper cables and the buyer jumped the bike (I know this isn't the best way to do it, but its the only option I had at the time, we left his car shut off). So I stop on the way home at the Easter Egg hunt to watch my son, when its over I go to the bike and it cranks a bit but fires up. So I get home and put the bike on my tender thinking maybe something was wrong with the one my aunt had, let it sit till tonight and the tender read fully charged. As soon as I hit the starter button I get a click again, hook the charger up for 10 minutes and still nothing. So I pull the car over, shut it off and jump it with the car battery. The bike fires up but as soon as I take the cables off the car battery the bike dies.

With the key shut off the battery test 12.5V, turn the key on and it goes to 3.5V. Bad Battery? Won't hold enough charge to start or keep the bike running? Do you think batteries plus will replace it without a receipt?
 

drrod

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I would bet you at least 2 pieces of pie, it is the battery. Probably a dead cell or broken BUSS bar (think that is what it is called).
Easy test is to put a good battery in it and see what happens but it sounds like a few batteries I have had that have died.

Rod
 
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Landon
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I would bet you at least 2 pieces of pie, it is the battery. Probably a dead cell or broken BUSS bar (think that is what it is called).
Easy test is to put a good battery in it and see what happens but it sounds like a few batteries I have had that have died.

Rod
Yeah, I don't have a spare sitting around to test it. I pulled it and am going to take it back to batteries plus in the morning since its less than a year old. Of course I don't have the receipt, but I am going to take my CC statement showing the purchase and see if that works.
 

TinyL

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That long sit before you started using the tender most likely heavily sulfated or even shorted a cell. Once a battery falls below 12.4 volts / 1.225 Specific gravity sulfation starts. If a battery is in good shape it still needs to be fully charged every 3 months. I would recommend a Gel Cell or AGM type battery instead of a standard wet cell. They tend to keep their charge better over time and not that much more expensive. Also when shopping for a battery check Manufacture dates. Standard wet cells should be no older than 3 months. Gel and AGM types no older than 12 months.

Good Battery---Made in USA
 
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Landon
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It's an AGM battery. The bike is sold, need to get it running to deliver it.
 
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TinyL

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I just replaced mine last week. My old battery is fine...but I'm a little paranoid and replace my battery every 2 years regardless. If you want to pay for shipping I will give it to you for free.
 

dduelin

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Their Xtreme Permaseal AGMs carry a 12 month warranty and the XPower AGMs have a 24 month warranty if it fails their battery condition test device. At 3.5 volts at Key On it probably will unless they say the battery was abused from chronic discharge. If their store computer program is like the franchisee here the battery sale can be looked up under the name. Good luck and good job with the sale.
 
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+1
"With the key shut off the battery test 12.5V, turn the key on and it goes to 3.5V. Bad Battery?"
Toast.

"Start it once a month and run it for 5 minutes"
That likely is what killed it.
 
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Landon
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Stopped by Batteries plus and had the guy check the battery, he said its toast. He said it only cranked 58 and should crank over 300. I told him it was less than a year old and he looked it up on the computer and said I was just in time as I still had a week of warranty left. He handed me a new one off the shelf and out the door I went.

I told him the complete story and he said, sometimes you just get a bad battery. Like anything mass produced sometimes you get a lemon.
 
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If your tender has the de-sulphating feature and if you can afford to wait, it might come back to life. I'm not sure which brands have de-sulphating. I have an Optimate 3+ and a Battery Tender Junior. The Optimate definitely has de-sulphating, but I'm not sure about the Junior.
 

ReSTored

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Stopped by Batteries plus and had the guy check the battery, he said its toast. He said it only cranked 58 and should crank over 300. I told him it was less than a year old and he looked it up on the computer and said I was just in time as I still had a week of warranty left. He handed me a new one off the shelf and out the door I went.................
Wow. Buy a lottery ticket. You're on a roll.
 

LarryC

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First off, the cranking of the engine is the heaviest load a battery sees. As stated earlier, the starting and running 5 minutes is most likely what killed it. For the alternator to put the amount of amp hrs back into the battery used to start the engine would probably take at least 15 minutes of running above idle speed...
 
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The GL has a power draw just sitting, plus the start/5 minutes. Lead/acid batteries don't like to be discharged for long or they sulphate. Once gone so far, no de-sulphating charger will bring them back.
 
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