Best Tire for Aggressive Turns?

[divemaster5734]

These pictures are of my Michelin Pilot GT 4 rear tire. OEM size.
I tend to dive a little deeper than most baggers, but obviously not as hard as I do on the track with a classic SV650S, mostly due to the center stand getting in the way on left turns.
The problem is the sidewalls are almost gone and I'm already starting to drift, which means a low side is "right around the corner"..
I've heard about the Angel GT's, and the new Pilot 5 GT.
I'm wondering if there are any other "carvers" out there that have experience with either?
Also, has anyone experienced rubbing issues going to a 180 or 190 50 17?
A 190/55 17 might bolt on, but I wouldn't know how to calculate the expansion at speed, and I wouldn't want to spend the money only to have to change out.
That said, I'm thinking a taller tire might give me some tread where I use it.
The middle of the tire is pristine, but there's only around 3k miles on it.
Thanks

 

[drrod]

Those tires look pretty normal to me given how you say you ride. Still some lean angle left. Ridden aggressively, the PR4 will wear as you describe and even start to get feathering/cupping on the edges (depending on how hard you accelerate out of corners). Most dual compound tires will wear quicker on the sides if ridden mostly in the twisties.

I have given up on the PR's because they tend to wear poorly (in my hands) and get trapezoidal shaped which negatively impacts initial tip in. I have found that the BS t31/32's tend to be better wearing in that they stay "rounder" longer but last about the same overall as the PR's which is about 6,000 miles (again, in my hands, on the roads I ride).

I ran a set of Angel GT's and found them OK but nothing extra special. Same can be said about the Metzler Roadtec 01's (180/55 rear).

As for sizing, I think about 180/55 is about as wide as you can go without getting some interference. I doubt you can fit a 190 without rubbing.

 

[dduelin]

The Road 5 GT is built quite a bit different than the Pilot Road 4 and wears much better I believe due to the 66% wide hard center section on the 5 vs the PR 4's 20% wide center section. The PRs have a reputation for wearing poorly - scalloping and feathering like yours but yours isn't that bad yet. The BS T31/T32 has a good reputation on the ST1300 just don't last as long as Michelins or feel as good in the rain.

Lots of tire threads here.

 

[divemaster5734]

Cant hit anymore lean with the bags or center stand, but you can see the couple CM wear. Could probably go lower by moving to tow the peg, but that's not why I ride the ST.
It's more of a utility/distance bike, or for a two wheel fix when there's no time to hit the track or dirt, it'll cure the PMS.
Riding track cures folks of the street racer death wish, exhibitions on city streets are for future organ donors.
Was going through a round-about and drifted a half lane today.
That's enough for me to get new rubber.

AT 50° the road could have been a little cold, but had 20 minutes for the tires to heat.
I'd rather change out with some left on it than take a chance of not having to grip where it's needed.
Appreciate the input, think I'll try a Road 5 GT.

 

[gmtech94]

I really liked the Angels and they seemed to be a great tire for the type of riding you are putting them through .

 

[TerryS]

The PR4 GTs worked well on mine, my bike had an adjustable length Nitron shock which I had wound out as high as my little legs would allow, so no grounding issues. I've heard good things about Bridgestone T32s, the T31 was a pretty good tyre before.

 

[skidgillen]

I really like my Bridgestone t32gt's!

 

[Cincykz]

I also like the T31GTs quite a bit. I have had issues with dual compound tires wearing the edges first and having handling fail prior to getting close to wearing out center tread.

I don't put a lot of miles on my ST due to typically splitting my riding between 2-3 bikes and being busy with work or kids, but after 3k miles of mixed riding my T31GTS still look basically new and have no strange wear, still perfectly smoothe.

I can get just about to the edge of the stock rear before making light contact, have you thought about adding preload or upgrading your suspension?

My 13 is all stock but pretty fresh, I've noticed in the past that my bikes with premium adjustable suspension wore tires much better/more evenly/longer when dialed in, even when thrashed, compared to bikes with cheaper suspension. I think the wallowing/shuddering when the suspension can't keep up really batters the tires.

 

[nt650hawk]

I've run the ST on a number of track days on probably 6 different rear tires from all kinds of companies (Pirelli, Maxxis, Michelin, Bridgestone, Metzler) and in 170 and 180 sizes. I put on decent rear take-offs that people don't want. None of which I've had any issues. I run my tires at around 34-35 PSI HOT and have very little movement on the track. More wallowing as the suspension is atrocious. But who has time to swap out suspensions on the daily rider for 2-3 track days a year worth of instructing.

I currently have an Avon on the front which has an unusual wobble between 45-50. It works well but not as inspiring as the Pirelli Angle GT. This will be going back on when i'm due.



I think the Michelins for what they are on the street are too soft for track day... as seen above..


This is a Maxxis Superrmax ST tire. 180/55 . I usually crank up the preload as BAD BANAID to keep the rear from squatting and pushing me wide. This also keeps me on my front toes for quicker turn ins. The rear has seen the edge, you can go further.

For those that know, you know how it goes. Just slap that A$$ and ride the waves.

 

[Al st1100]

A 190/55 17 might bolt on, but I wouldn't know how to calculate the expansion at speed, and I wouldn't want to spend the money only to have to change out.
That said, I'm thinking a taller tire might give me some tread where I use it.
The middle of the tire is pristine, but there's only around 3k miles on it.
Thanks

steel radial tires do not expand at speeds, the way the steel is wrapped around the tire prevents that. ST1100 or 1300? if it's a 1300 you have a lot of room even a car tire fits. 1100 not so much. use this site to calculate tire sizes, a 170/60 is taller than a 190/50 ..https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=190-50r17-170-60r17

 

[Igofar]

These pictures are of my Michelin Pilot GT 4 rear tire. OEM size.
I tend to dive a little deeper than most baggers, but obviously not as hard as I do on the track with a classic SV650S, mostly due to the center stand getting in the way on left turns.
The problem is the sidewalls are almost gone and I'm already starting to drift, which means a low side is "right around the corner"..
I've heard about the Angel GT's, and the new Pilot 5 GT.
I'm wondering if there are any other "carvers" out there that have experience with either?
Also, has anyone experienced rubbing issues going to a 180 or 190 50 17?
A 190/55 17 might bolt on, but I wouldn't know how to calculate the expansion at speed, and I wouldn't want to spend the money only to have to change out.
That said, I'm thinking a taller tire might give me some tread where I use it.
The middle of the tire is pristine, but there's only around 3k miles on it.
Thanks

Aggressive turns...heck son, you still have a huge chicken strip there
If you want a good handling tire, may I suggest the Pirelli Angel GT or Continental Road Attack III.
With either one of these, you'll have wear up to the edge of the sidewall if you've got the skills.

 

[wjbertrand]

You haven't really used these tires to their full potential yet, looking at your photos, so not sure why you're looking for something else? If you're dragging hardware and still leaving that unused strip you may need to either increase preload or fit a stiffer rear spring. I've found the Michelins to "hang on" just fine all the way to the edge of the tread, so long as you suspension is set up to allow enough lean angle.

Going with a wider non-OEM sized rear tire will squeeze the beads inward more than intended in the design, which can have the effect of pulling the edges of the tread up away from the road and conversely leaving you with less usable/accessible tread, not to mention less stability.

 

[nt650hawk]

i'd more likely refer to Geometry than suspension

 

[wjbertrand]

The problem is the sidewalls are almost gone and I'm already starting to drift, which means a low side is "right around the corner"..

Just a minor detail, but the correct description of the sidewall is the bit that does not contact the pavement and contains all the size, brand, DOT and other descriptive language. The sidewall is also what supports the tire/tread area. Your wear is exclusively limited to the tread area. It would not be normal to experience wear on the sidewalls, even if that's possible, which I don't think it is assuming a correctly sized, mounted and inflated tire.