While many things can cause handling problems, I have to agree with the potential of a defective tire. Belts in tires can break, causing major run out issues. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Tom
Bike started bobbling; gotta figure it out fast
- Thread starter St. Arbucks
- Start date
Tom
OP
OP
I appreciate the offer. If things start to deteriorate, I'll take you up on it.
I am here in Mystic, CT, attending my brother's wedding. Interestingly, I spent a few childhood years in Yorktown Heights; lived on Hickory Street. Went to the middle school there. Swam at sparkle lake. Nice town, as I remember it. Delivered papers and generally got in any trouble I could find.
Tom Mac 04a
Site Supporter
I recently rode my ST on a long trip and when the fuel tank was full, I noticed a bit more "bobbing" effect when passing large trucks. I have a top box and the windshield was up near the top position. I wonder if the "bobbing" would occur when riding two-up?
Try lowering the windshield. If it's up high it will absolutely make the front feel light. Too much weight in the top box also, keep the weight low in the saddlebags as much as possible. Also when you are experiencing this try keepping your arms loose and you elbows tucked close to your body. It's truly amazing how much "bobble" you can take away by keeping the elbows in and the windshield lower. Of course this all comes after proper suspension and tire air pressure adjustments.
We have a number of members right around Mystic as well, but Fred (Throttle Jockey) would be my first go to guy if I were in need of help up there. Never seen such a perfect garage till I saw ACL's former garage.
So you know my stomping ground. We should meet up for lunch on your way back through.
OP
OP
It's a new gage - dial kind with pressure release. I can try a few others to see if they are all in line. "A man with a watch always knows what time it is. But a man with two watches is never quite sure." - Mark Twain.
Tire slightly out of balance? Sometimes it's a combination effect that's hard to diagnose.
OP
OP
Well I took the helpful advice here (Thank you, Tom) and checked my pre-load. Yup?softer than an old man?s love interest. And no resistance until the knob was screwed to the very end. So?.I could either fix it myself per the excellent instructions contain herein. Or I could avail myself of the extended warranty that I had purchased when I bought my scoot.
Off to the dealer I went.
After a few days, I got a call from a very nice service writer saying that they?d gone over every inch of the bike and can?t find anything wrong. I believed the guy. He was earnest. He was kind. He was also wrong. I told him that I knew my bike and that the pre-load had been gradually softening for the past year.
He said that Honda had no knowledge of such a problem, and at Honda?s suggestion, they tried the pre-load on a new ST on the floor, and behold: it also had no resistance until the end, just like mine.
At that point, I wasn?t sure what to say. Perhaps the ?new? one was bad too? I don?t know.
But I pleaded with the guy and explained how, ever since I?ve had the bike, the handling goes to manure when the preload is set to soft, and firming it up takes all the squirrel out of the back end. I summed it up simply by saying that I knew my bike and how much did I owe you for the time spent so far? (You sign a $100 authorization when you take it in.)
He was sympathetic, saying only that I would not have to pay the $60 service charge for the tech?s time in trying to diagnose the problem. OK, I thought, so I take it home and fix it myself. No problem. I?ll pick it up Saturday, I say.
Well, 15 minutes later, he calls back. Tell you what we?ll do. We?ll try to get the whole shock fixed under warranty. Go for it, I say. And the next morning, they confirm it. I?m getting a new shock assembly in a few days (soon as the part comes in.)
Now, I HOPE the new shock includes a new pre-loader. The dealer said it comes as one unit. I hope he?s right.
Anyway, I?ll know in a week if it takes care of the problem or not. And if the preload on the new one has no resistance until the end?.I may just slither out of there without opening the door.
Gene
That's MR CUPCAKE to you!
Lots of us have had whole shock assemblys replaced under warranty when the preload adjuster went soft ,you are another on the list . Lots are being refilled with fluid ehen out of warranty
OP
OP
So why is Honda claiming that they never heard of the problem?
Gene
That's MR CUPCAKE to you!
You must be the first at that dealer maybe or he really didn't check that well ??
FYI, I have replaced the fluid in several rear shocks that were both in and out of warranty. You stand a 50-50 chance that the new shock will have the correct amount of fluid in it out of the box. Nobody knows why, but several shocks have been found low or completely out of fluid upon inspection. Of course HONDA denies there is a problem.
Its a very simple fix. However, before you do it, make sure you have (2) copper crush washers the correct size (8mm). If you use the old washers you will be doing it again after it leaks...trust me on this one
To repair it do the following: remove the seat(s) and saddlebags, remove both the left and right side covers. Loosen (but leave in place) the 10mm bolt that holds the rear master cylinder in place. Go to the left side of the bike and remove the phillips (JIS) screw from the knob (be carefull you don't strip it) wrap the knob with a shop towel or blue paper towel and slowly pull towards you. NOTE there is a small detent ball (bb) on top of a very small spring that will take off on you...the towel is to trap it. After you removed the knob, find both pieces. You may have to take a small pick and help the spring out of the hole. (I place grease on mine before I reassemble to hold it in place). Next, remove the (2) 10mm bolts that hold the unit in place. Look through the bike and look at the front of the rear fender, you'll see the line is clipped in place in two spots. Pull free. Now fish the preload assembly through the bike and past the loose master cylinder and out the right side of the bike. Lift if higher than the shock so the line does not bleed out. Use a cresent wrench to hold the unit on the flats, and remove the banjo fitting. Use caution, this is a hollow brass bolt! Tape or wedge the line somewhere and take the unit over to the workbench. Unscrew the bolt (where handle was) all the way. now insert a blunt object ( I use a plastic chopstick) and push the piston all the way down. Thats how much you lost! Dump out the nasty stuff and look at how bad it looks. Clean it out by filling it with oil and screwing the piston in a couple times. Always push it back open all the way with the chopstick.
now fill with hydralic jack oil (don't use brake fluid in case it leaks-it will damage all your paint). Fill the unit to the very top then insert the banjo fitting with the 2 new washers. SNUG is all where looking for here, again, hollow, brass, bolt!!!
Feed it back through, clip to fender, tighten MC bolt on right side, make sure hose fitting is pointed in the correct position so it does not bind. Tighten bolts, replace spring, bb and knob! Some like to use an Allen head replacement screw.
Now enjoy the preload from position 1.5 on....
Hope this helps.
RIde safe.
Igofar
Its a very simple fix. However, before you do it, make sure you have (2) copper crush washers the correct size (8mm). If you use the old washers you will be doing it again after it leaks...trust me on this one
To repair it do the following: remove the seat(s) and saddlebags, remove both the left and right side covers. Loosen (but leave in place) the 10mm bolt that holds the rear master cylinder in place. Go to the left side of the bike and remove the phillips (JIS) screw from the knob (be carefull you don't strip it) wrap the knob with a shop towel or blue paper towel and slowly pull towards you. NOTE there is a small detent ball (bb) on top of a very small spring that will take off on you...the towel is to trap it. After you removed the knob, find both pieces. You may have to take a small pick and help the spring out of the hole. (I place grease on mine before I reassemble to hold it in place). Next, remove the (2) 10mm bolts that hold the unit in place. Look through the bike and look at the front of the rear fender, you'll see the line is clipped in place in two spots. Pull free. Now fish the preload assembly through the bike and past the loose master cylinder and out the right side of the bike. Lift if higher than the shock so the line does not bleed out. Use a cresent wrench to hold the unit on the flats, and remove the banjo fitting. Use caution, this is a hollow brass bolt! Tape or wedge the line somewhere and take the unit over to the workbench. Unscrew the bolt (where handle was) all the way. now insert a blunt object ( I use a plastic chopstick) and push the piston all the way down. Thats how much you lost! Dump out the nasty stuff and look at how bad it looks. Clean it out by filling it with oil and screwing the piston in a couple times. Always push it back open all the way with the chopstick.
now fill with hydralic jack oil (don't use brake fluid in case it leaks-it will damage all your paint). Fill the unit to the very top then insert the banjo fitting with the 2 new washers. SNUG is all where looking for here, again, hollow, brass, bolt!!!
Feed it back through, clip to fender, tighten MC bolt on right side, make sure hose fitting is pointed in the correct position so it does not bind. Tighten bolts, replace spring, bb and knob! Some like to use an Allen head replacement screw.
Now enjoy the preload from position 1.5 on....
Hope this helps.
RIde safe.
Igofar
Thanks for the great write up.
Tom
Tom
OP
OP
Thanks, Igofar. Question: are you a wrench? If so, could I refer my dealer to you as an authority in these matters should things get dicey and they hold to the Honda line of nothing is wrong?
tdeboeser
that's not me!
Nice wright up!
Post #37 bookmarked.
Post #37 bookmarked.
Thanks for the instructions. I didn't know mine was low until readng this thread. I checked it and sure enough , no tension applied until it got to the normal setting. I filled it tonight and I'll see how it rides tomorrow.
TinyL
Wingin It
I know somebody mentioned tire rotation...but did not see you say you checked that. Make sure the arrow on the side wall is correct. The tread design of this tire sometimes seems to look backwards to some people...In my case I just had to many distractions while changing my tires. Take it from somebody who accidentally installed my own rear tire backward, it will do exactly what you are describing.
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2005
- Messages
- 315
- Location
- Scripps Ranch, San Diego, CA
- Bike
- '05 ST-1300A
- STOC #
- 5410
I know you're on the road and many of the suggestions...especially tire rotation, are easy to check, but when you get home, you might be a candidate for a fork brace. I have one and the STeed went from being steady to being 'rock' steady. After you put one on...just four screws...you may notice that it doesn't snick and snack through the twisties quite like it did, but within 100 miles of not being blown around by trucks, you'll be a happy camper. Another item I got long ago from CalSci was a belly pan. It was claimed to reduce cross-wind problems. Does it work? I've had it on so long, I can't remember what it was like without one. It probably just looks cool...but the fork brace does work at keeping things steady. With just four screws to put it on and take off, maybe you could borrow one to try. You don't even have to take off the rubber dust covers, just push them up out of the way. Superbrace makes one and so does MCL. Leave 'bobbling' to a hula girl on your dashboard.
John
John