Blown left seal, replace what..

Beeflips

(it's me...Greg) Returning some videotapes
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
946
Age
62
Location
Portage,(Kalamazoo) Michigan
Bike
2000 ST1100Y
I have a 2000 ST1100Y with just 30K on it. Left fork seal has blown out. I looked through my Clymer manual for a bit this morning, and I'm wondering what parts should I be replacing besides the obvious seals. Should I be changing out bushings as well? Other bits and pieces?

Thanks, Greg
 

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,311
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
While I was in there, I would probably replace the bushings also.
If you have the time and money, you might look at a RaceTech upgrade with new springs and gold valves.
If you don't want to do the work, Kent at CompuTrack Atlanta does a great job (he rebuilt 4 sets of ST1100 forks for me).
You can ship them to him once he knows what you want.


GMD Computrack AtlantaGMDATL.com - GMD Computrack
 
OP
OP
Beeflips

Beeflips

(it's me...Greg) Returning some videotapes
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
946
Age
62
Location
Portage,(Kalamazoo) Michigan
Bike
2000 ST1100Y
you might look at a RaceTech upgrade with new springs and gold valves.
I had thought about new springs as well, but I wasn't sure how much of a difference it would make.
Also, I'm more looking at my personal time invested. I can pay to have it done, but the labor here for the job starts at $650, and that's almost what I paid for the bike. But if I have to do it myself, I don't have a problem with that either (except for the time factor).
So U.P., what's been your experience cost wise having that done?
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,071
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
I have a 2000 ST1100Y with just 30K on it. Left fork seal has blown out. I looked through my Clymer manual for a bit this morning, and I'm wondering what parts should I be replacing besides the obvious seals. Should I be changing out bushings as well? Other bits and pieces?

Thanks, Greg
not likely that your bushings are shot at 30k so I'd expect new seals and you'd be done.

Also, sometimes its possible to repair a leaky seal by running a thin piece of plastic around the perimeter of the fork tube and remove debris that may be causing the leak. There's a tool made for that purpose, and I think its been mentioned here that you can cut a piece out of a plastic milk jug and use it for that purpose. Nothing to lose by trying that first.
 

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,311
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
It's been a while I am sure the costs have probably gone up.
But his price was for parts and labor total and he is very good, very honest, and very fair.
You would be surprised what a difference a front end rebuilt with the 'good' stuff will make in the handling.
I also replaced the rear shock with a Wilburs to 'complete' the job.
The front end of the ST1100s tend to be a bit 'mushy' in the stock configuration.
If you plan on keeping the ST1100 like I do until me or them turn into dirt, then it's not much over the long haul. :biggrin:
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,071
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
I had thought about new springs as well, but I wasn't sure how much of a difference it would make.
Also, I'm more looking at my personal time invested. I can pay to have it done, but the labor here for the job starts at $650, and that's almost what I paid for the bike. But if I have to do it myself, I don't have a problem with that either (except for the time factor).
So U.P., what's been your experience cost wise having that done?
$650 to change the fork seals, fork springs, or something else?? Sounds high to me, but I do all my own work so what do I know.

Its pretty simple to get the forks off the bike, the only thing that might be a bit complicated to the home mechanic is getting the bushings back into the lower fork tube on re-assembly. You can fabricate a tool out of common PVC pipe to help with that. The bolt at the bottom of the fork tube usually breaks free with a hand ratchet, but its possible it might spin and you'll need an impact driver to break it free.

Once you have the forks off, if you run into a problem you can't solve, take the forks into a shop and they should be able to replace the seals within 1 hour of labor or less.
 

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,311
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
As Doug said, it's not a lot of trouble to pull the forks off a ST1100.
And you can do all the work yourself - including the RaceTech stuff.
I'm just getting lazier as I get older and had to do too much wrenching in my early days because I had to! ;)
If you call or email Kent, he or his lovely wife can answer your questions.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
6,773
Location
Richmond, VA
Bike
'01 & '96 ST1100s
STOC #
9007
I rebuilt the fork on my '96 Nighthawk 750 several years ago. It was time consuming, but not too difficult.

I replaced everything while I was in there: bushings, seals, seal covers, and even the stop cups at the bottom.

The springs still matched and were taller than spec, so they stayed. I put in about 1/4" more oil for firmness.

A couple of tips:

Remove the afore-mentioned bolt in the bottom of the sliders before opening the top caps.

Loosen the upper triple clamp bolts, but not the lower clamp bolts, before opening the top cap.
 
OP
OP
Beeflips

Beeflips

(it's me...Greg) Returning some videotapes
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
946
Age
62
Location
Portage,(Kalamazoo) Michigan
Bike
2000 ST1100Y
$650 to change the fork seals, fork springs, or something else??
I believe that was also to take them off the bike, as in me just dropping it off, but I'm not certain, as they never got back with me to finish the quote, because they were going to look up parts also.
Pretty sure that I'll just do it myself. I have quite a selection of tools, including impact, so that won't be a problem, but I won't have anything specific to this task though.

Remove the afore-mentioned bolt in the bottom of the sliders before opening the top caps.

Loosen the upper triple clamp bolts, but not the lower clamp bolts, before opening the top cap.
Yes, I saw that mentioned in the Clymer manual. Thanks!!
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
6,773
Location
Richmond, VA
Bike
'01 & '96 ST1100s
STOC #
9007
OP
OP
Beeflips

Beeflips

(it's me...Greg) Returning some videotapes
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
946
Age
62
Location
Portage,(Kalamazoo) Michigan
Bike
2000 ST1100Y
And you can do all the work yourself - including the RaceTech stuff.
Still on the fence about springs. I replaced the springs on my motocross bikes with progressive springs to make them more manageable on the northern Michigan trails. But I always thought the ST was pretty smooth as it was. Again, I'll think about that some more.

Be sure to amass all the parts you'll need ahead of time. Dealers should still have everything if you like OEM parts.
Exactly the purpose of this post! :) Thanks!
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,071
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
Pretty sure that I'll just do it myself. I have quite a selection of tools, including impact, so that won't be a problem, but I won't have anything specific to this task though.
there's really nothing special about this job, I think you'll find it fairly simple to do. Once you have the caps off, springs and oil out, and break the bottom bolt loose, its just pull from the top and the whole thing comes apart.

BTW, myself and others here have used generic fork seals that typically run about $12 for the pair, so don't feel obligated to buy the OEM seals if they're a lot more expensive. The seal size is 41mm x 54mm x 11mm.

As I mentioned earlier, the only tricky part is re-inserting the bushing into the lower fork tube. Its a "C" shape circular bushing with a very small cutout to make it a "C" instead of an "O". You have to drive it back into the lower fork tube with the upper fork tube in place, where the bushing encircles the upper fork tube. As you drive the bushing back into its cutout in the lower fork tube, the "C" shape compresses back into an "O". To get it to compress into the cutout in the tube you need to apply even pressure around the circumference, which is difficult because the fork tube is in the way. A simple homemade tool for the job is to use a 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 PVC reducing bushing with a piece of 2" PVC pipe to use as a driver.

And for driving the new seals into place, put the old seal on top of the new seal and push both seals into place using the bushing driver tool. Then pull the old seal out with a pair of needle nose pliers or a small screwdriver. It will protrude just enough above the lower fork tube that you can pry it back out after the new seal is seated.
 
Last edited:

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,311
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
They do make rubber 'caps' that go over the end to prevent the knicks.
You can also make a fork 'holder' out of wood that holds the fork tubs steady without scratching them.
It is a good idea to take the tubes and lay them on an absolutely flat surface (like a piece of good glass) or a jig to make sure they are straight and true.
And if you have access, a 'reverse foot' caliper (that's what I call it) to run down inside the lower forks to make sure they are not wallowed out at the bottom of the stroke (don't ask me how I know about that one!). ;)
 
Top Bottom