Brake Pad Reference: ST1100A ABS II

[SwiftArrow]

Hi everyone!
I'm new to my 1999 ST1100, which already has 132k miles on it (US). Runs beautifully, and I love it. The only problem I have run into is that NONE of the workshops near me want to touch this bike. They all say it's too complicated. I did convince one to change the rear tire, and they sourced some brake pads for me, which ended up being the wrong ones, so I have now done a lot of online reading and wanted to summarize it for all people who come after me looking for this information.

Important things to know:

• The ABS II brake pad size is physically larger than the ABS I brake pad and the non-ABS pad. It is easy to mistakenly purchase the ABS I brake pad because clear information is not out there. (I have a set that I'm willing to sell!)
• The ST1100 has a number of sub-models, which you can find on the front fork along with the VIN. In my case, it is the 1999 ST1100 A, with ABS II. In various websites, this is written as ST1100A A, ST1100A ABSII, ST1100A AC, ST1100AA, etc. The "C" in "AC" seems to stand for "California", which is mostly the same bike with different jets for CARB emissions compliance. There may be other differences that I do not know.
• On the ST1100A ABSII, the front and rear brake pads are NEARLY identical, but they are NOT identical. The rear pad has an extra groove on the periphery and is thicker to start. You can use a worn down rear pad on the front, and you can file the groove into the front pad to use on the rear. But they are NOT the same. Shops will tell you they are, but that's not technically correct. They are similar.
• The ST1100A ABSII has THREE calipers: two on the front and one on the rear. You need THREE SETS of brake pads to do a full replacement.
• ONLY USE OEM PADS. Non-OEM pads may be "harder" or may wear less, or may have "extra friction" but all of this comes at the cost of changed riding characteristics, questionable wet performance, and INCREASED ROTOR WEAR. OEM Pads are cheaper than a rotor.

OEM Part Numbers:

• Front: 06455-MAJ-G41 (you need TWO sets)
• Rear: 06435-MAJ-G41 (you need ONE set)
• Alternatively, you can use THREE sets of the FRONT pad and grind the groove in (see the Credits section).

Where do I find them? (Rhetorical Question, Here's a reference of a collection of places recommended on relevant threads in no particular order.)

• https://www.servicehonda.com/
• https://www.partsfish.com/
• https://www.partzilla.com/
• https://www.ronayers.com/
• https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/motorcycle
• https://www.procaliber.com/
• https://shop.hondaparts-direct.com/
• Probably others; recommended to comparison shop to find the best price.

Credit where credit's due:

• Here's a picture showing the notch that fits the protrusion in the brass clip at the back of the rear brake caliper bracket.
  
  edit: just found another picture of mine, showing the clip in situ. http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=44&pid=1019#top_display_media
  John

• OEM for 250,000+ miles on ST1100s and never have had any trouble out of them between the three ST1100s. BTW, they all still have the original rotors on them also. ;-)

• Not sure about EBC, but a set of Galfer pads installed were absolutely terrifying in the rain. Initially front brake application felt like no brakes at all, so instinctively one squeezes harder as adrenaline kicks in, at which point the brakes very suddenly dry out and transition to very hard braking. I think if I had not had ABS this would have locked the front wheel and sent me down the road on my ass! I changed back to the OEM pads immediately.

• Read about properly maintaining your calipers in this thread: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/changing-front-brake-pads.152592/

• NOPE. You can use 3 sets of the front as the rears are thicker and will bind in the front.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I usually use RonAyers.com for my brake pads for my ABSIIs as they usually have really good service.
'Too complicated' is a joke when you compare modern Hondas to a ST1100 - even the ABSII ones.
The problem is that most of their techs aren't old enough to have worked on ST1100s so it won't be quick work for them.
They might have to actually read and figure something out.

 

[Slydynbye]

OEM Part Numbers:

• Front: 06455-MAJ-G41 (you need TWO sets)
• Rear: 06435-MAJ-G41 (you need ONE set)
• Alternatively, you can use THREE sets of the Rear pad.

NOPE. You can use 3 sets of the front as the rears are thicker and will bind in the front.

 

[Smudgemo]

I'm unclear on the question. Where to find them? Any of those places that sells OEM parts will work.
I think I'd make every effort to source the correct pads for each end, but that's just me.

 

[SwiftArrow]

NOPE. You can use 3 sets of the front as the rears are thicker and will bind in the front.

Thanks, I edited the post.

 

[SwiftArrow]

'Too complicated' is a joke when you compare modern Hondas to a ST1100 - even the ABSII ones.

I know! I mean, this is basically a simple bike compared to what's on the market today, it doesn't even have a radio! But that was literally the response I got from ALL 3 local shops (and by "local" I mean half an hour's drive in different directions), including a Honda dealer. The dealer told me they don't work on anything more than 3-5 years old.

 

[Bush]

Another reason they often refuse to work on older bikes is that they are responsible for whatever work they do to make the machine roadworthy. That means if they find something that needs attention and bring it to the owner's attention, they can often face refusal to do the extra work, which leaves the dealer in a potentially legal bind about that responsibility, should something dangerous be left unattended.

 

[SwiftArrow]

I'm unclear on the question. Where to find them? Any of those places that sells OEM parts will work.
I think I'd make every effort to source the correct pads for each end, but that's just me.

Yup. I'll order fronts and rears separately if they're available. Also, it was a rhetorical question; I've edited the post to be clearer.

 

[SwiftArrow]

Another reason they often refuse to work on older bikes is that they are responsible for whatever work they do to make the machine roadworthy. That means if they find something that needs attention and bring it to the owner's attention, they can often face refusal to do the extra work, which leaves the dealer in a potentially legal bind about that responsibility, should something dangerous be left unattended.

Yeah, well, that's just the insurance man getting in the way of getting things done.

 

[Slydynbye]

Yeah, well, that's just the insurance man getting in the way of getting things done.

Perhaps you are unfamiliar with the Archive of Wisdom, a valuable resource for an ST1100 owner.

ST1100 Archive of Wisdom

History, Technical Articles, Farkles, and Ancient wisdom from the ST1100 Gurus.

www.st-riders.net

 

[Ron]

... They all say it's too complicated. ...

I was told, a lot of the time, the tech doesn't have the training to work on the older bike. Also, it would be easy to have the bill more than the value of the bike.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I was told, a lot of the time, the tech doesn't have the training to work on the older bike. Also, it would be easy to have the bill more than the value of the bike.

Yep, that's what I ran into and even though I told them I would pay it they still crawfished around.

 

[Bush]

I was told, a lot of the time, the tech doesn't have the training to work on the older bike.

Well, that has to be the lamest excuse I've heard! Doesn't have the training to work on older bikes?? *****. If the kid can strip and rebuild what's selling as new now, an old ST couldn't be any easier. Except maybe carb work.