Brake pad stripped out

[Bigrobhere]

I have a 1993 st 1100 and I and tryn to put new pad on it everything went smooth till I tried to take the Allen head pad slide bolt out tried for days and it rounded the Allen head bolt out. can any one suggest how I can get it out

 

[ReSTored]

I assume you mean the pad pin that holds the pads in place.

I stripped mine and I used a Dremel to flattened the pin a bit on both sides, the part between the 2 pads, so I could clamp a small vise grip on it to loosen the pin. Worked fine and easier, IMO, than trying to drill out the pin head.

 

[TerryS]

Get a Torx bit of the correct size and hammer it into the rounded pad bolt head. These often grip much better and allow you to get the bolt out. I'd also suggest using plenty of penetrating oil over a few days, and giving the bolt head some sharp taps with a hammer to assist with loosening. Good luck.

 

[RaYzerman]

Add a manual impact driver to that Torx bit..... The vise grip idea works too.

 

[TerryS]

100% agree with using a manual impact driver. This has been a staple in my toolbox for ever. I usually escalate stuck fasteners from an allen key, to a hex driver on a 3/8" driver, to the manual impact driver, and then up to my mains powered electric impact driver. Impact drivers are wonderful assets, but on a small fastener they can be unforgiving.

Applying heat might also be worthwhile if there is access, and causing the alloy to expand away from the steel bolt might help.

 

[SMSW]

I assume you mean the pad pin that holds the pads in place.

I stripped mine and I used a Dremel to flattened the pin a bit on both sides, the part between the 2 pads, so I could clamp a small vise grip on it to loosen the pin. Worked fine and easier, IMO, than trying to drill out the pin head.

I've not tried this, but if you can get a grip on the pin with the serrations of the Vise Grip's jaws, you should be able to turn it without the dremel. Flattening two sides would improve the grip. BTW, they make different sized Vise Grip pliers, so if what you have at hand is too big, start looking around....

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[Erdoc48]

One more suggestion (I had an Allen strip out in my fork tube)- had to take it to the local shop and instead of a Torx bit (which likely would be fine), they used a triple square bit (so more slit like digging surfaces- I believe 12 total vs 6 with a Torx bit)- this got the bolt out. I agree an impact driver to ‘shock’ the bolt free is a good idea as well. Before I did any of this I’d source a new replacement pin as you don’t want to use the buggered one.

 

[jfheath]

I've had this happen more times than I care to recall. On most occasions I have succeeded with filed down imperial hex keys and grinding paste to provide grip,

Twice I had to resort to extreme measures. Once I had to take the bike to the dealers, and they welded a handle onto the pin so that they could turn it. They then had to replace all of the seals.
On another occasion I managed to grind a flat onto the shaft and I managed to wedge a spanner onto it to get it turning.

I the bought half a dozen of the pins and any time I felt the hex socket was rounding off a tiny bit, I took it out and fitted new. They seem to last me two removals. Given that they seem to tighten up, that torque value of 18Nm seems high for the type of cheese that these pins are manufactured from.

 

[wjbertrand]

The correct sized easy out worked for me once

 

[RaYzerman]

That torque seems high, snug is good.... I think it's more the taper that "bonds" with it's mating surface, so perhaps a little anti-seize wouldn't hurt.....

 

[TerryS]

I always use a dab of copper slip on the threads of pad pins now.

My recollection is that the later version of the ST13 uses a different design of pad pin with an external conventional nut end, rather than the recessed hex head type. Not sure if these are backwards compatible?

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

+3 on the vice grip. BTDT only once, learned from that. These pins are a routine maintenance R&R item. And any time the calipers get all gunnged up (technical term), pull the pads and pump out the pistons and clean them, so you’ll service the pad pins too. Our AlaskaSTOC 2001 mantra was: “clean rotors and calipers, full tank and empty bladder.” I agree on the torque… snug is good. And I use anti-seize on the treads and the threads of the little cap. FWIW

John

 

[jfheath]

@TerryS - the front 1300 pins are not quite compatible. The thread and diameter is the same but the length is a tad out and the shoulder at the narrow end is located differently.

The newer 1300s do not have this new style pin on the rear, but I investigated and modified a new style pin.

I cannot recommend on a public forum doing something to change such safety critical parts, but my investigation is worth a look.

ST1300 - Brake Pad Pins | ST1300-Brakes

There were quite a few modifications made to the ST1300 with the introduction of the 2008 model. One of the most exciting of these was the change in the design of the front brake callipers. On pre-2006 bikes, the pad pins had a hex socket which required an allen key to insert and remove the...

www.st-owners.com

 

[Malks]

Currently having this issue. Changed the tires and noticed the front pads are very thin. Ordered new pads but can't get the pad pins out. The cap screws were on tight and I needed my manual impact driver to get them off. The pad pins are completely seized and I managed to round off the hex drive on the right side. I have been spraying Deep Creep into the opening and using vice grips on the pins between the pads. Nothing! A day later, with more Deep Creep applied, I hit it with some heat and tried again. Still no movement. I'm sure the left side is just as bad from my first attempt to loosen the pin on it.

I'm going to try a Torx bit and my manual impact driver as suggested by TerryS and RaYzerman above.

If that doesn't work I'm contemplating drilling out the entire pin. Before I take that drastic step I'm going to check with my local shop to see what they would charge to get these 'effing pins out of there. I'm sure it will be expensive.

I've looked at eBay and have found several used callipers for sale there. So if all else fails and drilling out the pins causes damage I might have to replace both front callipers. I've never had to replace a calliper, so have no idea what I'm in for. I do have a shop manual for assistance, but I'm concerned this is outside my comfort zone.

 

[ReSTored]

The pad pins are completely seized and I managed to round off the hex drive on the right side.

Try the vice grip process as per post #2. Completely non invasive. As SMSW suggests in post #6 you might get away with not grinding the pin if you're able to secure the vise grip tight enough. I had a dremel handy so used it.

 

[Jethro]

Try tapping hard on calliper area where threaded pin goes through to loosen any corrosion.The manual impact driver is a good idea.Use it on fasteners BEFORE you round them out.Vessel makes a quality tool.Their impact screw drivers are also quality and J.I.S.

 

[jfheath]

I'd be wary of drilling it out - you will likely destroy the threads.

I've had a couple of successes. Once I managed to grind a flat section onto the pin between the two pads. I then got an adjustable spanner and adjusted it just too tight and hammered it onto the single flat, and turned the pin loose. You have to think carefully where the flat will be, what angle the spanner will be at and work out whether you have enough room to turn it in the correct direction. But it worked.

I never found impact drivers to be of any use in this situation. Unless trying a tapered torx bit or sometimes, a ground down over-sided allen key with a taper. The problem was not with the tool slipping out, it was with the tool chewing up the chees like allen socket.

On another occasion I just took the removed caliper to the dealer. They welded an arm onto the pin and levered it out. Then sawed off the arm to remove the pin. The caliper needed new seals, but that was the last time I ever struggled with the pad pins. Since then I used my modified new versions, and still do, in my rear caliper.

The dealer reckons that 18Nm is way too tight for those pins. But they always came out first time, and second time. After that it was touch and go. they needed replacing.

 

[Malks]

Well I tried the Torx bit with an impact driver and had no luck. I continue to spray Deep Creep penetrating oil into the opening hoping that it will eventually work its way through. I've been going at the pin with visegrip pliers every day and that pin just refuses to budge.

Before I get to the drill out idea I'll drop into my local shop and ask them what they would recommend and how much that would cost.

 

[Sadlsor]

Seems that removing the entire caliper and taking that to the dealer, or even a machine shop, may be worth considering.
Did you get the replacement pins yet?

 

[Jethro]

Seems that removing the entire caliper and taking that to the dealer, or even a machine shop, may be worth considering.
Did you get the replacement pins yet?

As above,or remove and a drill press is your friend.As are sharp tools, bits.Good excuse to add to tool inventory.