Brake pedal foot positioning

[AV8R]

I’ve never had problems with my feet positions on either the left or right side until this past weekend. I typically ride to and from LA (55 miles each way) plus the 5 to 50 miles of escorting or traffic control, in a single day. But last weekend I did this two days in a row and now I believe I’ve developed some form of: “Retrocalcaneal bursitis” and/or “Achilles tendinopathy” from holding the front of my foot over (but not on with pressure) the brake pedal, but having to use it often when filtering for long distances.

”Retrocalcaneal bursitis is inflammation of the small fluid-filled sac (bursa) between the back of the heel bone and the Achilles tendon, just above the point where the tendon connects to the bone. The inflammation causes swelling, tenderness, and pain on the back of the foot.
Retrocalcaneal bursitis develops gradually, usually from pressure from the back of a shoe. Activities that repetitively overflex the foot upward, such as hill running, cause the Achilles tendon to press against the bursa and can also cause inflammation. Wearing shoes and being active can often make symptoms worse. But symptoms usually improve with rest.“

“Achilles tendinopathy is most often caused by overuse or repeated movements during sports, work, or other activities. For example, if you do a lot of pushing off or stop-and-go motions when you play sports, you can get microtears in the tendon.”

Now my right heel hurts and so it did also up to my calf. A few days later, the pain up to the calf is fine, but the heel is quite tender and has a constant dull pain even when not on it. I’ve been following RICE home treatment which is Rest, Ice, Compression and Elevation. Well, no compression truth be told. I’ll give it a week and then go to doc it things don’t improve.


So.... my hope was that in the owners manual I’d find something there about lowering the pedal angle such that I don’t have to raise my foot forward of the ball, above the pedal for instant response times. But it doesn’t appear that the pedal angle can be adjusted, no?

If that’s the case, then I need to modify my foot positioning, but not at the expense of adding more response time. So you filtering road warriors and touring kings of the road out there, like Super Sabre and others...
a. Have you experienced this kind of repetitive motion foot injury or pain?
b. What solutions are there?

signed...
Hop Along AV

 

[ST Gui]

But it doesn’t appear that the pedal angle can be adjusted, no?

I'm sure it can be. Members have mentioned lowering both gearshift lever and brake pedal when using MCL lowering mounts etc. I've been meaning to lower both because I have 'Wing pegs which 'raised' both levers 1".

I've just adapted rather than lower the lever/pedal but it might be a good idea to get roundtoit.

It's not in the manual but apparently you lower the gearshift lever from the right side of the bike. In the old days you pulled a lever off the shaft and put it back one notch lower or higher. This doesn't work with the gearshift lever but maybe with the brake lever. But it can be done and somebody who knows what they're talking about will be along soon enough.

 

[drtyrrel]

I ride with the ball of my foot on the peg then slide forward when using the brake. Practice doing quick stops like this and it wont take you any longer to stop.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

He sent me home with one very simple exercise. 10 seconds, twice a day. Never let it hurt more than 3 on a scale of 1 to 10. Don't try to do more than this.

So ................ What is the exercise?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Thanks for the reply John.

I asked because I suffer debilitating nocturnal cramps in the calf muscle of one leg. I never had cramps before that foot was smashed to bits in a car accident. They have lessened significantly over time but I still get them so every opportunity I see of a treatment that might help I explore which is why I asked.

Unfortunately I have no concrete useful suggestions for AV8R either. Excluding the presence of a medical issue and if it is a muscle issue all I can suggest, based on researching my leg cramping, is that forcing your foot to maintain an unnatural position for an extended amount of time also causes your muscles and tendons to be under tension and stress for long periods of time. Muscles don't like that. They function best when they are being contracted and relaxed, not when they remain under tension in the same position for extended periods of time. The only suggestion I have is to move your foot as often as you can even if only for a few seconds at a time. The idea being to change the muscle tension and position. As far as how you accomplish that while respecting your criteria to not increase your reaction time- even slight movement of only a few seconds every once in a while is all that is needed so it can be done without having a measurable impact on your pedal coverage.

I wish you luck in finding something that works for you. Riding with an ailment that causes discomfort or pain can be distracting which is not desireable.

 

[sirbike]

What I have noticed is boots tend to be shaped like an L more exclusively as time goes on. Like this.

It’s like a foot with a heel that does not protrude back.
Here is a rare shape of boot now days.
I used to get Rocky 911 boots that had this shape.

Then one year they changed production to China and the back of the heel was chopped.
My issue became pain between the heel and Achilles’ tendon.

The motion of holding the front of my foot flexed up pulled the back of the boot against the back of the heal. That would be the position your foot is in at the ready to brake.
I found a pair of Bates boots that have more of a heel cup area. Still not ideal with the side zips up for long periods but fine unzipped.
For motorcycle riding I have Daytona GTX Road Stars. They have the more pronounced heel cup and are fine for me to walk in.
Hope this helps.

 

[AV8R]

Yes I’m coming to the conclusion that tactical boots aren’t good for motorcycle use for extended periods of time. The heel of the boot gives no room for the acheles tendon and the underlying cushion to not be squished against the heel bone. Your theory on rounded heeled boots makes a lot of sense. Thank you.

Maybe wearing a bigger shoe size might also give more room for the heel to work without being pinched.

Wow... tracking algorithms or coincidenc?
note the advertising that was at the bottom of this thread:

 

[AV8R]

There is an adjusting screw and locknut which effectively lengthens or shortens the pushrod into the master cylinder. It works in a similar way to the cable adjusters on pushbike brake cables. The pedal is a see-saw pivot, so to lower the pedal, it needs to be lifted / shortened at the rear end to allow the pedal to drop lower. A stopper plate outlined in magenta in the bottom pic, prevents the adjustment from raising the pedal. Mine is a good way from touching the stopper plate.

I have a photo somewhere, I'll post it when I find it.

View attachment 249511

View attachment 249512


----------

Physiotherapists are pretty good at working out what is wrong and giving exercises to solve the problem.

I used to wake with calf cramps quite frequently. Drinking water didn't help to prevent it. One night it was a violent attack and it pulled a calf muscle. The pain didn't go away, and doc referred me to a physio who listened and questioned, never laid hands on me and watched me some do some test movements to find out when it hurt.

He sent me home with one very simple exercise. 10 seconds, twice a day. Never let it hurt more than 3 on a scale of 1 to 10. Don't try to do more than this. Come back in a month. The pain had gone within 3 weeks, but i continue to do it, as I have never had cramp in my calves since.

Exactly what I was looking for. Why in the Sam Hill is this not in the owners manual?
Thank you for providing a potential workaround to me having to use my foot on a raised angle.

 

[ST Gui]

I was just giving one example of how a physio was able to work out the reason for something hurting, and then cure it by providing simple exercises.

Noted. But I'm glad Andrew asked. I just tuned in and thought is a very interesting thread. Assuming that a rider has no current or recurring injury I'd imagine that the exercise you related could be of benefit to most of us here if not of much to some in fine physical condition.

Though I'm no medical expert I bet this would first do no harm to most if not all of us in sound condition and with possible benefit to many of us. So thanks for posting that bit and all caveats noted.

 

[klaproth]

I have had a similar pain from riding OR driving, especially if in the car or truck a while. It turns out to be Plantar Fascitis, and is easily cured by going to Wal Mart or other outlets, and buying some insoles to cure it. I use "Airplus " insoles, but I am sure there are others.
The pain mainly manifests when I have been immobile a while, then start to walk. It clears up eventually on it's own. but is mighty painful for a few steps, or while driving sometimes.
Worth a try.

 

[Upt' North]

Yes I’m coming to the conclusion that tactical boots aren’t good for motorcycle use for extended periods of time. The heel of the boot gives no room for the acheles tendon and the underlying cushion to not be squished against the heel bone. Your theory on rounded heeled boots makes a lot of sense. Thank you.

Maybe wearing a bigger shoe size might also give more room for the heel to work without being pinched.

Wow... tracking algorithms or coincidenc?
note the advertising that was at the bottom of this thread:

AV8R, you'd never have the problem in the UK, our boots are always a size too big and stuffed with woolly socks.
I obviously realise this information is no use to you whatsoever, what's new there. I think such a remedy in the nice climes of CA would probably result in "trenchfoot".
Upt'North.

 

[T_C]

I've just adapted rather than lower the lever/pedal but it might be a good idea to get roundtoit.

Wing pegs and MCL lowering kit... never found a roundtoit.

 

[AV8R]

I have had a similar pain from riding OR driving, especially if in the car or truck a while. It turns out to be Plantar Fascitis, and is easily cured by going to Wal Mart or other outlets, and buying some insoles to cure it. I use "Airplus " insoles, but I am sure there are others.
The pain mainly manifests when I have been immobile a while, then start to walk. It clears up eventually on it's own. but is mighty painful for a few steps, or while driving sometimes.
Worth a try.

funny you say this...
Was just chatting with another wingman who is also a Teamster who drives semis for the film industry in HollyWierd out here. He said that his gas pedal foot was getting this heel pain from traffic driving. He changed boots. He also recommended changing the seat height to change the foot angle. Not a bad idea, except I wouldnt be able to touch the ground. I think lowering the pedal and more room in the boot’s heel area are the solutions

 

[AV8R]

Sorry.
Steps would be:
Remove the grey lower cowl on the right hand side. 5 allen bolts and a push pin rivet. Note the two different types of bolt.

Note the gap if any (cyan double headed arrow)
The purple arrow is the rear end of the brake pedal lever. This goes up when the brake pedal is pressed down.
Slacken the locknut (green arrow).
Adjust the adjusting screw (red arrow) clockwise to lift rear end of the pedal and lower the front.
Sit on the bike and check for fit. Adjust some more if necessary.
Tighten the locknut.

View attachment 249517

Brake light switch

You may need to adjust the brake light switch after doing this (but check the new position of your foot/ankle first).
The brake light switch can be accessed through the triangular hole just above the footrest.
Mine has a rubber insert which is a push fit into the hole. Slip a screwdriver between the rubber and the metal to get behind it, and pull it out.

The brake light switch looks like this, although you will only be able to see the top half of it.

View attachment 249518
The lower end is attached to the brake pedal with a spring.
The switch simply rests in a hole. Gently lift up the switch so that you can see part that is arrowed blue.
If you have lowered the pedal at the front, then this will probably need to be screwed up a bit.
It will be trail and error to get the light to come on when you need it to, and at each attempt you have to make sure that the switch is properly seated where it was before you lifted it up. It will now seat a little lower than it was before.

Replace the rubber triangle if you have one.

i love you. In a manly way of course

 

[AV8R]

I have had a similar pain from riding OR driving, especially if in the car or truck a while. It turns out to be Plantar Fascitis, and is easily cured by going to Wal Mart or other outlets, and buying some insoles to cure it. I use "Airplus " insoles, but I am sure there are others.
The pain mainly manifests when I have been immobile a while, then start to walk. It clears up eventually on it's own. but is mighty painful for a few steps, or while driving sometimes.
Worth a try.

some years ago, i had Plantar Facetious from running on pavement with crappy running shoes. The podiatrician (foot doc, not baby doc) totally cured it by peeling back the heel skin, poking it alot with a medical awl, sewing it back up. Done. He said this opened up the hardened area to blood flow which causes the heel’s healing. It used to be so painful, it was like walking on glass, so i had to tiptoe around.

 

[ST Gui]

Wing pegs and MCL lowering kit... never found a roundtoit.

You have to check a rift of the space-time continuum. They're their if you know where to look.

 

[AV8R]

Went to see doc today as right foot still hurts after a week and a half.
X-ray was clean, just a little spur due to decades of running on pavement and sidewalks.
Turns out my injury is technically a form of sprain from the strain of repeated foot movements while doing filtering.
Don’t know how Super Saber survives this daily, unless he’s a lot younger and/or limber than me self.

 

[ad.hom]

Something I've not seen anyone mention, particularly while you're in pain - you could reduce the problem a little by using more front brake (related to your recent thread on that topic).

Everyone says back brake only to prevent dive etc, but done with enough care, the front brake isn't the evil ugly step sister everyone makes it out to be.

Obviously adjust the lever position & switch pull as per jfheaths posts, and consider better boots (I ride with Alpinesport Heros - waterproof sports boots FWIW), but maybe you'd get even more relief by occasionally not having to use the back brake too.

 

[AV8R]

Bingo. Youve unveiled my sinister purposes behind these related threads!
Thanks for caring, seriously

 

[AV8R]

Bingo. Youve unveiled my sinister purposes behind these related threads!
Thanks for caring, seriously

@ad.hom
your avatar info says you have a 2002 ST1300 ABS bike in the UK.

Says 38k miles in 2020 is that possible OR is that over 18 years (comes out to 2.1k miles per year.)?

How is she holding up in that island surrounded by ocean air? I recently replaced the petrol tank on mine because the Pacific Ocean salty air and sun ruined the clear coat and made it bubble up. The was also so oxidation on the handle bars and lower forks I had to clean up.

@jfheath
I believe boots have a lot to do with this injury. That plus the angle of the rear brake pedal, repetitive upward arching for over an hour at a time, my age and not stretching like going running, and that I did this two days in a row. Never had a problem for one day.