Brake Pin Stopper Replacements

Uncle Phil

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I don't know if this applies to the ST1300, but these work great on the ST1100s that have those pesky little slotted screws that go in after the brake pad pins.
The specs are M10 X 1 X 6MM - very fine thread - and these are stainless steel.
I could not find a US source for them so I had to go to EBay.
It took over a month to get them from China -


They work perfectly as a replacement for the slotted screws,
A nice thing about them is they take a 5mm wrench (which is what most of the hex socket heads are on the ST1100).
 

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I've got some of the ST1300 'plugs' but I like these a lot better and they are a lot cheaper! But YEMV! ;)
+1 UP, these are a lot more user friendly, I think I got mine from ProBolts, But if you run with just a standard tool kit make sure you carry the right size key too.
Upt'North.
 
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Uncle Phil

Uncle Phil

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002064
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698
+1 UP, these are a lot more user friendly, I think I got mine from ProBolts, But if you run with just a standard tool kit make sure you carry the right size key too.
Upt'North.
I always carry a 5mm T-Handle in my 'doctor's bag' on each ST1100.
And once I swapped the side panel bolts from the screw to the allen socket head, it makes removing the bodywork with only 3 tools -
10MM socket
5MM T-Handle
Phillips Screwdriver (the JIS version!) ;)
 
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Uncle Phil

Uncle Phil

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These 'snug up' nicely against the ST1100 pad pins. Flush on the front with the surface of the caliper and a smidge out on the rear. Just me, but I like the 'threaded in there' option over the 'push in' option like the ST1300.
 
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Uncle Phil

Uncle Phil

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698
Still using my original brake pad pins on most all of my ST1100s. The deal with the allen socket is making sure it is fully seated before you 'twist' it. My problem with the slotted screws is buggering the slot cause there ain't much 'purchase' there, then fighting to get them out. Hopefully, these stainless steel ones will hold up well against road crud - time will tell for sure.
 

ST1100Y

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Since I started applying a little anti-seize (or at least a smear of copper slip) on those threads upon assembly, they never seized up again...
The '07 NT700 has those rubber plugs mentioned, dunno if they do a good job in sealing, since the pad pins where pretty seized there (all dry and slightly corroded); will see in the future if my threatment with anti-seize cured the issue...
Still went for UP's suggestion, weird that I could't load the item No on eBay here, had to change to eBay.com to place the order...
 
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Price seems to first appear as $10.98, then immediately changes to $22.98.
Doesn't state quantity that I could see.
Then $3.98 shipping.
What was your experience Phil?

I anti-seize em too Martin.
 
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Uncle Phil

Uncle Phil

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002064
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698
Price seems to first appear as $10.98, then immediately changes to $22.98.
Doesn't state quantity that I could see.
Then $3.98 shipping.
What was your experience Phil?
Yes, mine were $26.96 including shipping for 50 pieces (look in the 'selection' description).
Figures out to be about $.54 each USD.
I looked at the pro-bolt solution but by the time I paid for 12 (what I needed) and a few spares I was at $63 USD before adding the horrendous shipping charges from the UK to the US. I would have to bought several more to get 'free' shipping which would have been 1/2 as many for 3 times the price so I looked for something a little cheaper.
It did take them a long time to get here but I don't know how much of that was due to the corona virus stuff happening in China at the time.
I don't know if 'bolt and screw' houses carry this particular size or not but you could always check there.
The issue is the 1.0 thread (very fine) and the 6mm length (very short).
 
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ST1100Y

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I don't know if this applies to the ST1300, but these work great on the ST1100s that have those pesky little slotted screws that go in after the brake pad pins.
They work perfectly as a replacement for the slotted screws
Great find UP! :thumb:
Mine also arrived these days (ordered Mar 18), they're indeed very well made for the price (€ 20.87,- free P&P) and fit like a charm.
The 50 pcs should last for the couple of bikes in the shed though :cool:
Still applying Anti-Seize on the threads over the known issues with stainless steel in aluminum bores.
 

kiltman

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I always carry a 5mm T-Handle in my 'doctor's bag' on each ST1100.
And once I swapped the side panel bolts from the screw to the allen socket head, it makes removing the bodywork with only 3 tools -
10MM socket
5MM T-Handle
Phillips Screwdriver (the JIS version!) ;)
If you swap the 10mm hex nuts on the shelter, mirror bolts and middle cowl to 5mm socket bolts you can be a speedin’ demon..... I know a guy that did that. ;)
 

kiltman

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The shelter was a 6x25 and the cowl was a 6x16. I got them from a hardware store. they were stainless steel with a 5mm socket. I don't know why Honda didn't do that in the first place. Cost more than likely.
my side panels require a larger allen key. I just carry a multi unit in the glove box.
 
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Uncle Phil

Uncle Phil

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002064
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698
The Side Panel bolts that fit and you can use a 5 MM key is part number 90112-MT4-000 ( from a VFR IIRC)
assuming we are both talking about the big side panels that snap into the shelter and under the saddlebags
and came with a big headed Phillips screw originally.

Thanks.
 

mello dude

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I don't know if this applies to the ST1300, but these work great on the ST1100s that have those pesky little slotted screws that go in after the brake pad pins.
The specs are M10 X 1 X 6MM - very fine thread - and these are stainless steel.
I could not find a US source for them so I had to go to EBay.
It took over a month to get them from China -


They work perfectly as a replacement for the slotted screws,
A nice thing about them is they take a 5mm wrench (which is what most of the hex socket heads are on the ST1100).
Thanks for that! It's a common part across most Honda bike calipers.
 
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