carb drain hose circuit started

[mtflyr]

Ok, I have everything off/exposed except the carb assembly itself. From what I can see everything appears ok, but, I am hesitant to take off the assembly. I have noticed the front left carb is loose and on carb #3 & #4 the upper boot clamps are loose as I can move the clamps with my fingers. I can't even begin to see any of the front clamps on the #1 #2 carbs. This is the reason I am hesitant to go further as it appears I could reattach the overflow hoses without going further(which was my original intent). Also, it is apparent the one(s) who was in here before me replaced the rubber velocity stack boots. Also, according to my Clymer's there is suppose to be a rubber heat shield, if so, mine is missing. Any suggestions on how/where to proceed from here? If I go further, any suggestions on dealing with the front carb clamps?

Please advise...

Thanks

 

[mtflyr]

Got to the clamps by removing more plastic. Having difficulty finding carb boots, would appreciate suggestions?

Thanks

 

[The Duke]

Are you looking for replacement boots? If yes, you should've able to order them from several online parts places.

The same should go for the rubber may, but I'd try to find a used one if you can. You can run without one until you find one, and by then you'll be a pro at pulling your carbs.

 

[Basic]

On mine, the rubber heat shield was also missing. Got myself a nice second hand replacement, but took the effort of measuring it before placing.
You will need a 1 mm thick rubber. Don't know if there is a special quality required. Minimal dimensions are 570 x 350 mm.
Using the drawing below, you can cut it yourself.

Rubber Heat Shield

Hope it helps,

Rob

 

[Mark]

Just as a data point: I used PVC shower mat from Home Depot to make the 'rubber' heat shield.

 

[George]

My silver 91 has a piece of seat cover vinyl in place of the original mat.

All the clamps are accessible with a long #2 Phillips and a strong light. Make sure they are oriented correctly or the screws will foul the accelerator linkage (AMHIK ).

I place a 100 watt bulb (lit) in the valley with a towel covering to warm up the boots, and apply liberal coat of plumber's grease to help ease the insertion.

Keep us poSTed.

 

[mtflyr]

Ok, thanks to you all.
On the shield, I have a "heat shield"/insulating material I have used on restoring my car('61 Nash Metropolitan ). One side has aluminum foil laminated to a felt-like material. Would this be too much overkill? It would certainly insulate, maybe too much? On the boots I have been confronted with allot of "out of stock" thus far.

 

[George]

MT, depending on miles and condition, it's not necessary to replace the boots. With a little heat and liberal lube, the old boots will serve for a long time unless they are cracked enuff to actually leak.

The purpose of the insulator blanket is to keep heat away from the float bowls, so more might actually be better.

 

[c130flteng]

Ok, thanks to you all.
On the shield, I have a "heat shield"/insulating material I have used on restoring my car('61 Nash Metropolitan ). One side has aluminum foil laminated to a felt-like material. Would this be too much overkill? It would certainly insulate, maybe too much? On the boots I have been confronted with allot of "out of stock" thus far.

Check these guys they look like they have some in stock
http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_select.asp

 

[mtflyr]

Thanks again to all...

 

[c130flteng]

My silver 91 has a piece of seat cover vinyl in place of the original mat.

All the clamps are accessible with a long #2 Phillips and a strong light. Make sure they are oriented correctly or the screws will foul the accelerator linkage (AMHIK ).

I place a 100 watt bulb (lit) in the valley with a towel covering to warm up the boots, and apply liberal coat of plumber's grease to help ease the insertion.

Keep us poSTed.

Are you sure about the plumbers grease? what ever you use to help get the carbs on is going to be sucked into the engine and burned. I used seafoam spray. Lubricates and is safe to burn in the chamber without any damage or contamination.

 

[Brant]

Also a 'shot' of silicone spray after they're on the motor lets carbs pop right in. Hopefuly your replacing those carb boots with OEM new ones. If your gonna try and re-use them, lest you've had some practice pulling carb bank.......just sayin'. Problem is, the clamps intentionally have a stop to keep from overtightening. Re-using the boots will not allow the boots to seal good a second time. May not create a bad vacuum leak, but don't take much, and over a period of time that lean running can hole pistons. Seen this happen way too many times on scoots. These motoers are not exempt. For four new OEM intake boots and $40, not worth the risk in my book.