CB antenna tuning problems

Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
94
Location
La Verne, CA
STOC #
5636
Trying to get my new firestik E30-NGP antenna to work w/ my Midland 75-820. The SWR is around 4 on ch 40 and 2.5 on ch 1 and 19. I'm connecting the antenna to the pigtail and not to the top of the unit where the rubber duck would be. I'm sure the antenna is not grounded and have tried testing w/ the coax not coiled up. Adjusting antenna whip up/down doesn't seem to make a difference.

I'm thinking the antenna is "electrically long" because i'm connecting through the pictail which adds around 5' to the antenna. From what i've read NGP systems are very finicky when it comes to coax length.

Before i chop the coax or go spend money on a connector to attach antenna to top of unit i thought i'd ask if someone knew how i should proceed.

Thx.
 
I would give Firestik a call. They have good tech help over the phone and they can tell you whether the pig tail is the reason for your SWR readings.

You are correct, the NGP antenna are cut to the exact length sold by design and the pig tail may be causing an issue. They (Firestick) told me that even shortening the antenna coax 1-2 inches will impact the performance.

I think the rubber duckie antenna is a BNC connector and Radio Shack has a PL259 to BNC connector adapter that you could use to connect the NGP coan PL-259 to the BNC connector on the radio:04biker: .
 
If you are referring to the pigtail between your radio and swr meter, don't worry about it. It is not affecting the reading one bit. You gave us the readings on channel 40 and channel 1 & 19 but there is still a piece of the puzzle missing. What is the reading on channel 10? Even if there is a resonance on channel 10, it doesn't sound like the antenna has the required bandwidth.

Are you resetting your swr meter with every test? Are you checking in your garage or out in the open?

Ray
smile04Bikerwheelie.gif
 
SWR in my experience is very picky to the ammount of coax on the bike. I had to add 6 ft of coax to get a 1.4 to 1.7 SWR respectivly. The ammount of ground plane on the ST1300 is very low and I believe one of the reasons its so picky depending on where you mount your CB antenna. NM6R is right about adjusting it near any objects as it can affect the SWR like you wouldn't believe. You need to go out to a clearing to make these adjustments. How much coax do you have between the antenna and the radio? Mabye you have too much or not enough? Also whats the length of your antenna because that can also change the ammount of coax needed between radio and antenna. Good Luck I know how frustrating getting the SWR right can be, for some reason some bikes just tune right in and others don't.
 
usdefcon1 said:
SWR in my experience is very picky to the ammount of coax on the bike. I had to add 6 ft of coax to get a 1.4 to 1.7 SWR respectivly.

When you measure SWR (more correctly VSWR, for Voltage Standing Wave Ratio), you're looking at how well the antenna is matched to the transmitter at a particular frequency. If you get 1:1, the match is perfect and everything being put in is being radiated into the air. (There's an exceptional case where a lousy antenna serves as a resistive load, but I won't go into that here.) At anything other than 1:1, the match is imperfect, and some of the energy being put in is being reflected back to the transmitter. Anything up to 2:1 (11% reflected) is usually considered tolerable, and anything more than that is less than ideal. Aside from making sure the energy is making it out into the air, having a low VSWR means your transmitter isn't having to dissipate the reflected energy as heat, which will shorten its life.

It sounds to me like you're taking your measurements at the transmitter and not the antenna. The coax cable has some amount of loss in it (in both directions), and adding more to get the VSWR down to a reasonable number masks the problem of a mismatched antenna by converting some of the reflected energy into heat before it gets back to the meter. (It's also doing the same thing to some of the forward energy.) Putting the meter as close to the feed point of the antenna as possible will get you the best picture of how well the antenna is matched:

Transmitter --> Antenna Cable --> Meter --> Very Short Cable --> Antenna​

A good antenna with a good ground plane (which is a big problem on motorcycles because of their small size) should get you a VSWR of 2:1 or less across the entire band and will have some point where it gets down to 1.2:1 or less. If you can swing it, tune the antenna so that point is at the channel you will use most. You may have to compromise on that point to keep it below 2:1 at both ends of the band. I should also point out that the length of the antenna is directly related to how well it's matched; the process of tuning it involves changing the length so it's resonant at a particular frequency.

One of the big advantages to the VHF and UHF services (FRS/GMRS, MURS, Amateur) for motorcycles is that the shorter wavelengths involved don't require the antennas and ground planes to be as physically large as HF, where CB resides. For example, I have an antenna for 440 MHz (which is just below FRS/GMRS's home of 462) that gets me a bunch of gain compared to a dipole in free space, which is the benchmark against which antennas are measured. The whole thing is 36" tall, has no loading coil, requires no ground plane whatsoever and has been an excellent performer.

--Mark
 
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I did test outside and did reset meter for each channel. I'll have to test ch 10. Not sure you all are understanding my setup. Here it is:

radio -> 5' adapter pigtail -> 15" coax -> swr meter -> antenna.

Here's the adapter i'm using:
http://www.midlandradio.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5471

How does the coax on the radio side of the swr meter effect things? In the aboves test setup the pigtail is on the radio side of the meter but will actually make the antenna coax longer. Do i need to get a piece of coax the same length as the pigtail and add it to the antenna to simulate how the antenna would work when not hooked to the meter?

Mongo confused.
 
Well, Mongo, it have to do with where choo-choo go. :)

Your setup is fine. My comments were for usdefcon1, who sounds like he's adding coax to keep some of the reflected power from making it back to the radio instead of tuning the antenna.

The coax on the radio side of the meter doesn't have any effect at all, other than whatever its losses are. The meter just measures how much power's coming back relative to what's going out.

After you tune the antenna, it's probably not a bad idea to take a couple of measurements at the radio end just to make sure you don't have any breaks. An open connection will reflect everything back.

--Mark
 
By tuning the antenna you mean move the whip up/down? I've tried that and swr doesn't change much, still really high on ch 40.

What do i do next? Think i'm gonna stop by radio shack and buy adapter to connect antenna straight to radio, just for grins.

Thx.
 
I missed that you were using a NGP antenna. From Firestik's description, it looks like they're using the supplied coax as a counterpoise, so it's part of the system and you're stuck with it. In that respect, usdefcon1 is correct that the length of the coax will have an effect. (Normally, you attach a separate counterpoise at the feed point of the antenna so that whatever you're using to get the RF there doesn't factor into it.)

It's difficult to say what effect the pigtail is having. It does change the length of the counterpoise, and the coiled part could be forming top load on that element, which will throw the whole works even further out of kilter. (You'll notice that the whip part has a coil at the base which makes that part of the antenna electrically longer. This is called "base loading.") Plugging into the BNC connector at the top of the radio might make the antenna work as Firestik intended, but then you wouldn't be able to use the vehicle adapter unless they've got a different way to get power to the radio. If the radio is built as I think it is, you don't want the pigtail and the connector just hanging there.

It's a shame you're not anywhere near here, because I have a piece of test equipment at work called a network analyzer that gives an instant, complete picture of how your antenna behaves across the entire band. Having one makes very short work of tuning antennas.

And yes, by tuning it I did mean adjusting the length of the whip. If you're not seeing much change then there's probably some other problem. Do you get less than 2:1 anywhere, or is it just bad all over? Can you give me some idea what kind of measurements you're getting on some of the other channels? Knowing what it looks like on 1, 10, 20, 30 and 40 would reveal a lot.

--Mark
 
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Just to reiterate, it makes absolutely no difference what length(s) of coax are between the radio and swr bridge. With the NGP antenna you will need to use the 18' length or whatever came with it.

Ray
smile04Bikerwheelie.gif
 
That was a good primer on CB antenna's and reveals I still have a lot to learn. Can the SWR meters positioning in the circuit affect the reading that much? Just interested. Also if I remember my electronics training the length of coax is a constant to the length of the antenna and the frequency if you what them to match correctly. So does the NGP antenna take advantage of this fact and messing with the length is just screwing yourself or is there something different about NGP antennas? Also do you have to take into account that these antennas are designed for large(er) ground planes like on trucks and cars and do you have to make adjustments to counteract that on a motorcycle? Personal Question here sorry don't mean to steal the tread or anything. Back on track...

If your reading is above 3 on all channels doesn't that mean shortening the antenna. And if you've shortened the antenna as much as you can and still have above 3 on all channels (Assuming this is the firestick with the non destructable shortening) then there is something else wrong I would think.
 
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If the antenna feedpoint impedance is 50 ohms (where the antenna actually connects to the feedline) and the feedline's impedance is 50 ohms, then the length of feedline is irrelevant... That being said, if the feedpoint impedance is different than the feedline impedance, then yes, various VSWR readings will be found at various places in the feedline. The reading at the VSWR meters location in the feedline will be what the Xmitter sees when you remove the VSWR meter (as long as you do not add or subtract a piece of feedline) and screw the feedline into your radio. NGP antennas generally use a given length of coax as a matching stub/transformer so that the radio "sees" a 50 ohm load (even though the feedpoint impedance may not even be close to to 50 ohms)

Putt...
 
usdefcon1 said:
Can the SWR meters positioning in the circuit affect the reading that much?

It can. (The caveat here is that I work with microwaves, where loss is a very significant problem even in very-high-qualty cable. But low-quality cable can have measurable loss at 27 MHz, where your CB operates.) The thing of it is that you want to tune the antenna so it reflects as little power as possible, because if power is being reflected, it's not being radiated into the air, which is where you want it. Taking your VSWR measurements close to the antenna lets the meter sniff out as much of the reflected power as possible and will let you fine-tune things more accurately. Putting a lot of coax in the middle means that some of the reflected power will be converted to heat, and the meter will see a wider-than-true range where the VSWR looks perfect even though it isn't.

Also if I remember my electronics training the length of coax is a constant to the length of the antenna and the frequency if you what them to match correctly. So does the NGP antenna take advantage of this fact and messing with the length is just screwing yourself or is there something different about NGP antennas?

That's news to me. Some NGP antennas use the shield of the coax as an antenna element. Changing the length of the coax changes the length of that element, which can hose up how well the antenna is matched. In that case, you'll want to take your measurements at the end of the cable supplied by the manufacturer, because it's actually part of the antenna.

Also do you have to take into account that these antennas are designed for large(er) ground planes like on trucks and cars and do you have to make adjustments to counteract that on a motorcycle?

For an antenna that requires a ground plane, the only adjustment you're going to be able to make is to provide one, either in the form of lots of sheet metal, a single counterpoise wire or lots of them arranged in a radial pattern. Ground plane antennas simply won't work well without one.

If your reading is above 3 on all channels doesn't that mean shortening the antenna.

Not necessarily. What it does mean is that your antenna's way out of tune, but "above 3" doesn't tell you which way.

I've attached a chart of VSWR measured on an actual antenna using a network analyzer. (The antenna is one I had around the lab and isn't designed for 27 MHz, but it should get the point across.) This particular antenna has acceptable VSWR through the entire range shown, but for the sake of this example, you can pretend that the upper end of the chart is some large number like 6:1. You'll notice a sweet spot at about 112 MHz where the VSWR dips very close to 1:1. This is where the antenna is resonant and reflects almost no power.

Let's say I wanted to use this antenna in the range of 105-110 MHz. You'll notice that as you go higher in frequency through that range, the VSWR gets lower. That's an indication that the antenna is resonant at a frequency higher than the range where you want to use it, which you can verify by looking at the chart. To make the sweet spot occur at a lower frequecy, the antenna needs to be made longer, either physically or through electrical means such as loading coils.

Similarly, using this antenna in the range of 115-120 MHz has the opposite problem. As you go higher in frequency through that range, the VSWR gets higher, indicating that the resonant point is happening at a lower frequency. Making the antenna shorter will increase its resonant frequency, and just the right amount will land it in the desired range.

To carry that over to a CB antenna: If the VSWR is lower on channel 1 than on 40, then the antenna is resonant at a frequency lower than channel 1. That means it needs to be tuned to be resonant at a higher frequency (shortened). If it's lower on 40 than 1, the resonant frequency is above the band, which you correct by lengthening. (This is a generalization that works for this discussion but may not for others because some antennas are designed to be resonant at several frequencies.)

And if you've shortened the antenna as much as you can and still have above 3 on all channels (Assuming this is the firestick with the non destructable shortening) then there is something else wrong I would think.

If you can't find a length where you get VSWR of 2:1 or less on any channel, you've either got the wrong antenna, a crappy one, a broken one or you're coming up short in the ground plane department.

By the way, after you tune the antenna, it's a good idea to take a couple of VSWR measurements at the transmitter to make sure you don't have any breaks or other nasties in the rest of the cabling that cause energy to be reflected before it even reaches the antenna.

--Mark
 

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Here's my results after testing today. Drove out to a big empty parking lot. Here's #s for how i want to use antenna through adapter pigtail:

Higher #s are guesstimated:

ch. 1: 2.0
ch. 10: 2.5
ch. 20: 3.2
ch. 30: 4.2
ch. 40: 5.0

I went to radio shack and got an adapter to connect antenna to top of radio where rubber duck would be. I put a piece of paper over the contact where the adapter pigtail connects to the bottom of the radio so that wouldn't effect things. I think it worked because when i tried to take a SWR reading w/ the pigtail connected i couldn't get full swing on the meter in FWD mode. Don't know why. Maybe it's absorbing on the radiation? Anyway, here are the #s when connected directly to radio:

Ch.1: 3.2
Ch 10: 4.0
Ch. 20: 4.5
Ch. 30: 5.0
Ch. 40: 6.0

Hope this helps u experts figure out what's going on. Let me know if you want more info.

Marty
 
Either way, those readings are indicating the antenna is too long. This may or may not really be the case. If this is a NGP antenna, you should have the original length of coaxial cable (18 feet?) in place between the SWR bridge and the antenna. If this coax is already in place, the antenna will need some trimming.

Are you running the radio from bike power or batteries? This might make a difference as bike power will be grounding the radio and in turn the antenna.

Anyone else have some thoughts that I might have missed?

Ray
smile04Bikerwheelie.gif
 
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Am only using coax that came w/ antenna. And am using CB connected to bike power. Thought of trying batteries but didn't. Rats!
 
Bike power is where you want it I would think but its a good idea and might be worth trying. What kind of CB Radio are you using and where have you mounted the antenna. Using what BLRFL said I see some differences between two of a few ST1300 I've tuned where one was easy and another was not. One the location of where I was taking the SWR reading and 2 where the antenna was mounted. One was mounted with a piece of flat steal directly to the bike and another was connected using a license frame cb antenna mount which if you havn't noticed the license plate on the ST1300 is not attached to any metal on the bike but is plasic. So therefor there was almost no ground plane.

And yes from thos readings and my limited knowledge it would seem antenna is too long. At this point if I had shortened the antenna all that I could I would either start messing with the legth of the coax to shorten it up or buy another antenna that was a foot smaller.
 
Couple of ?'s

Where is the antenna mounted?
What is it mounted on?
I used a wilson 2 ft antenna, and welded a small plate to the stealth backrest.
With out the extra ground wire on the antenna, I was in the 1.8 range.
With the wire connected I and 1.1 or so.
Here is a picture of the mount and antenna base.
1834241farkles11.jpg

This small amount of metal is a pretty good ground plane on the bike.
You aren't looking to talk around the world, you are on a bike!
Attention to detail will help tons.
Check all connections and recheck them.
 
Could be your antenna simply is not adequately grounded, or the chassis of the transmitter is not adequately grounded. Go for something simple first. Be sure both the transmitter and the antenna mounting are properly grounded with zero resistance from them to the negative terminal of the battery. Just attaching your mount to metal on the bike isn't 100% reliable as a ground. Evidently due to frame construxion of the ST1300 Honda hose to ground all the electricals on the bike by wiring them all to a single grounding cap (one of the recalls). As an experiment, take a piece of say #12 or even #10 gage wire, attach it to the antenna mount firmly, attach the other end to the negative terminal of the battery... then see what happens when you check SWR in the middle of the frequency band... I like to use Chan 20 for this. Tune for lowest possible reading on 20 then 1 and 40 will usually be within usable range if you have good solid connexions... For antenna connexions, I prefer the old standard PL 259 plugs too.... they are reliable.
JR
STOC 394
03ST1300A
Lake Livingston, TX
 
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