Collar, bush

[Allan DK]

Hello Hivemind

I was happily taking my rear shock off my 1999 ST1100 Anniversary ABS model to lubricate and clean it a bit. Something was wrong, but I could't quite put my finger on it - until I realised the big lump of rubber that should have been around the center pin was missing. Found a little bit of it at the bottom of the spring...

Now - Honda actually sells a new one!

52453MT3611

Now - my question is : How in the world am I able to take the shock apart to insert the spare part? The damping adjustment is located in the top piece, and I am assuming I cannot just compress the spring, unscrew the top, insert the new rubber and put the whole thing together again?? Or is it really that easy?

I haven't been able to find any videos or other manuals for this job. I hope someone can help

For your info - the bike is nearing the end of it brake-in period with only 100.000 km on the clock. Shock feels firm and damping is good, though I believe it is the original.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Pictures? The part number you gave is number 2 on this diagram -

 

[DeanR]

I think he meant the big rubber bumper thing within the spring at the top.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I think he meant the big rubber bumper thing within the spring at the top.

I don't think that is a part you can buy - at least it does not show up on the parts diagrams I have.
These are the only parts for that assembly that I show -

 

[CYYJ]

Allan:

Do be sure to lubricate the shaft of the bolts at the top and bottom of the shock absorber before you put things back together. When I last replaced the shock absorber on my ST 1100, I found that the bolts were very worn - see the picture here: ST 1100 Rear Shock Replacement.

You might want to consider purchasing new bolts if you find that the plating on the existing ones has worn off.

Michael

 

[GGely]

When I replaced the OEM shock on my 2001 with a Hagon unit, there appeared to be only one replacement upper bolt left on the globe, at CMSNL. Which, of course, I ordered immediately.

I hope that’s incorrect…

 

[Upt' North]

From memory if you compress the spring I think there is a collet type set up on the top spring plate that can be removed. If you attempt it, be VERY careful. I'm assuming you mean the bump stop needs replacing.
Upt'North.

 

[ReSTored]

As an FYI when I replaced my OEM shock with a Progressive I found bolt #4 (as per post 2 above) to be loose and backed out several turns...........

I shudder to think what might have happened if I had continued to ride the OEM shock until the bolt backed out to the point where the rear end would have collapsed onto the tire. Nothing good I suspect.

 

[Ron]

The only part available from Honda is #4 @ about $15 USD.

The part number in the original post is for the bushing/sleeve #2 which doesn't seem to be availble from Honda. It is a Showa piece. It might be available from them.

 

[Allan DK]

Hello everyone.

It is indeed the big rubberpiece inside the spring I mean. I was mistaken about the spare part number I wrote above - it is not the bushing.

Having done 100.000 km with the original shock, I guess it is time to replace it. However - it still feels fine, and I really resent spending such an amount of money if unnesserary. The only issue I have with the shock now is - when it maxes out, it does so with a pretty hard BUMP! With the big piece of rubber I suspect it would be softer.

I think I can take the spring itself off - no big problem there. The problem will come when I have to remove the top to put a new piece og rubber (if indeed I can get such a piece at all...)

The easy solution is not to max out the shock...

 

[dduelin]

Bump stops are available from a variety of sources. I replaced the bump stops in my Miata's suspension as part of a shock upgrade. Bump stops are an integral part of a shock and serve to modify the spring rate during the last 20% or so of the shock's travel.

The trick will be disassembly of the ST1100 shock to slip the new bump stop over the rod. Coilovers or struts for cars generally have a threaded rod and after removing the spring with a compressor it's easy to remove the retaining bolt and slip off the top hat or spring rest.

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eibach.com

 

[Uncle Phil]

I have Wilber shocks on all four of my ST1100s and have been very pleased with them.
They are next door to you in Germany.

 

[Uncle Phil]

BTW, is that 100,000 KM (which would be around 62,000 miles)?
I've found the 'stock' shock starts getting weak around 50,000 miles.
You don't notice until you notice it!

 

[Allan DK]

Well - it seems I cannot get the bumper stop on this side of the pond... If I get it from the states, it will almost cost the same as a new shock, so no matter.

I will have to make do with what I have for now. Economy is tight these days...

 

[Allan DK]

BTW, is that 100,000 KM (which would be around 62,000 miles)?
I've found the 'stock' shock starts getting weak around 50,000 miles.
You don't notice until you notice it!

And yeah - that is probably 62.000 miles. Maybe it is getting weak - I just finished a 2700 km ride with full luggage and the wife on the back, and had no problems at all. How do I tell if it's getting bad??

 

[Uncle Phil]

How do I tell if it's getting bad??

When you hit a 'serious' bump it will feel like you are on a pogo stick!
They don't usually go all at once (unless something busts), just get weaker over time.
One day you hit a bump and go 'WHOA!'

 

[dduelin]

And yeah - that is probably 62.000 miles. Maybe it is getting weak - I just finished a 2700 km ride with full luggage and the wife on the back, and had no problems at all. How do I tell if it's getting bad??

This ST Article is on the ST1300 rear shock damping adjustment but it still gives the gist of checking the damping action of a shock absorber. If the external damping adjustment doesn't make material changes in how the shock rebounds..... you get the picture.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Setting rear shock rebound adj [VIDEO] | ST1300 Articles

I thought that this short video might illustrate how changes to the rebound adjustment screw affects how the rear shock works and how to find a starting point for your shock.

www.st-owners.com

 

[Allan DK]

This ST Article is on the ST1300 rear shock damping adjustment but it still gives the gist of checking the damping action of a shock absorber. If the external damping adjustment doesn't make material changes in how the shock rebounds..... you get the picture.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Setting rear shock rebound adj [VIDEO] | ST1300 Articles

I thought that this short video might illustrate how changes to the rebound adjustment screw affects how the rear shock works and how to find a starting point for your shock.

www.st-owners.com

I've testet the damping, and it works just fine. I am going to try something else...



I'll take pictures when they arrive and let you all know how it went

 

[Upt' North]

It'll be most unusual if you can get more than 50,000 serviceable miles out of an OEM shock. But I'm sure it happens. I replaced my non ABS OEM with an ABS OEM at just over 50,000.
The difference was very noticeable although there was no outward sign that the shock was failing.
Good luck.
Upt'North.