Coolant System Hose Identification

[Ron_WI]

My 2007 ST1300 has 121,000 miles on it. While replacing the engine sub-harness, I removed the throttle body. Once removed I saw quite a mess in the engine bay, mostly from antifreeze weeps/leaks and probably a little oil from the cylinder head covers. After getting that cleaned up, I decided to replace the coolant system hoses and clamps. I took a lot of photos during the teardown and numbered the hoses along with notes on where each went. I ordered OEM parts from Ron Ayers. It was a bit of a challenge to make sense of the water pipe diagram. I thought I'd post a couple of photos with the hoses numbered with the part numbers from the water pipe and radiator parts diagrams along with a sheet listing the OEM part numbers for the hoses and associated clamps. On the photos, RED numbers refer to the water pipe diagram, and GREEN numbers to the radiator diagram. It might help anyone else who may be replacing cooling system hoses.

I previously posted cross-referenced coolant system diagrams here:
Article - How to Navigate Honda Parts Diagrams | Articles | ST-Owners.com

 

[SMSW]

@Ron_WI, can you post those pictures above -Hoses 1 and 2 in your post #9 in the linked thread? Looks to me like that took a lot of work.

Excellent!

Question for you. i've only seen the thermostat housing from the front. Is that long oblong sausage shaped casting under Hose 25 in Pic 1 really what it looks like from above? I'd only seen Honda's fiche drawings and I thought it was short and compact.

 

[Ron_WI]

Yes, that's it. Here are a few more photos. You can see what a mess I found when I first pulled back the rubber mat under the throttle body. One last photo showing the dirty/clean comparison as well as the thermostat on the dirty side.

 

[SupraSabre]

Dang, looks ugly!

Here's what my '04#2 looked like before updating it:



Here's what it looked like when I replaced it all (the thermostat housing was bought off ebay):



Those are Gates Thermoplastic hose clamps. They tighten with heat.

BTW, I had to remove the smaller clamps, because they wouldn't hold. Also, I got rid of the non-OEM hoses and replaced them with OEM.

 

[Ron_WI]

Mine was ugly for sure. Yours wasn't near as messy. Gates Thermoplastic hose clamps look trick. I ordered a new thermostat, thermostat cover, gasket, screws, and ground connector along with hoses, clamps, and a bunch of other stuff. The main thermostat body isn't too bad. I ordered the parts from Ron Ayres on 03/17. Their update yesterday said they were waiting on 3 items but expected to ship my order this week.

 

[970mike]

Don't forget to change out the "O" rings under the small hose fittings at the front of the motor. part #24

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f133f870021c54be64ae/water-pipe

 

[Al Gully]

My 2007 ST1300 has 121,000 miles on it. While replacing the engine sub-harness, I removed the throttle body. Once removed I saw quite a mess in the engine bay, mostly from antifreeze weeps/leaks and probably a little oil from the cylinder head covers.

Any Ideas on how to lift the throttle body up and out without damaging it.
I have the same grunge under the throttle body like you had.
I was thinking of lifting it out with 4 slings in each of the lower corners by the rubber boots and 2 ratchet straps from eye bolts in the ceiling. I soaked the boots overnight with penetrating oil.

 

[SMSW]

Any Ideas on how to lift the throttle body up and out without damaging it.
I was thinking of lifting it out with 4 slings ... and 2 ratchet straps from eye bolts in the ceiling. I soaked the boots overnight with penetrating oil.

I was going to joke 'use a chain hoist' but you beat me to it. Seriously, Someone here posted using a pry bar, another used a 2x4, and the manual cautions against damaging the linkage. Rubber softens with heat, so use a hair dryer to thoroughly warm the boots before you start.

 

[Al Gully]

I was going to joke 'use a chain hoist' but you beat me to it. Seriously, Someone here posted using a pry bar, another used a 2x4, and the manual cautions against damaging the linkage.

The rope slings I was going to use would be attached to the lowest part of the throttle bodies, yes I’ve read about the throttle body castings snapped off in places, no pry bars are going to be used on my throttle bodies.
Removing them just for cleaning, so if they don’t lift off easy, I’m not going to remove them for cleaning.
Also 2X4’s and prying with pipes are also not on the agenda.
I just want to lift from all 4 corners away from the linkage areas.
@SMSW, have you removed your throttle bodies before?

 

[Ron_WI]

Don't forget to change out the "O" rings under the small hose fittings at the front of the motor. part #24

Yep, they're part of the order I'm waiting on. Thanks!

 

[dduelin]

I removed my ST’s TB assembly with a soft nylon strap looped under the right side of the assembly. From there I took the strap over a piece of pipe long enough to bear against the top of the bike’s frame on the left side. I lifted up on the other end of the pipe and pulled the TB up off the intakes.

 

[Ron_WI]

Any Ideas on how to lift the throttle body up and out without damaging it.

If you have an air compressor, the method in this thread looks promising:
Throttle body removal tool | Tools/Workshop/Garage | ST-Owners.com

I didn't have a compressor and resorted to some prying, as gently as I could, after using PB Penetrating Catalyst. It was amazing how solidly they were stuck in the rubber insulators. I first worked out the right rear side by applying some pressure, then relaxing and using a small flat screwdriver to pull a little of the top of the insulator back and adding a bit more PB Blaster. I kept doing that each time trying to get PB Blaster in a different spot on the insulator I was working on and also the other insulators. I kept at it for better than an hour but finally, that right rear one broke free. Once I got that one, the rest were much easier. I pretty much followed the method SupraSaber sent me which I'm attaching.

If I were to do it again, I'd try to find a friend with an air compressor or rent one and give Igofar's method a try. I don't think I'd try removing the TB with 4 slings in each of the lower corners by the rubber boots and trying to ratchet it out all at once. As stuck as the one corner I freed first was, I'd think the amount of force needed to pull it off all at once would be much greater increasing the likelihood of breaking something.

Good luck!

 

[SMSW]

@SMSW, have you removed your throttle bodies before?

Al, No I have not. Others here have passed along the tip about heat, and I've used a hot air gun sometimes to remove stuck hoses and the rubber manifolds on my old Guzzi (nothing at all like pulling 4 at once, the PHF30's (DelLorto) each have one rubber manifold).

You do know about the black coating on the inside of the throttle bodies' throats and NOT to try to clean that, right? Its a moly coating or something that prevents the accumulation of sticky deposits.

If you want to read how the removal went for other guys here, do a search and read some other threads. A lot has been written over the years.

dduelin's post #6 in Larry's thread, and Dave's thread both linked in Ron's thread are the one's I remembered.

 

[Al Gully]

Well all,
Since my post at 2:14pm today and it’s 4:40 pm today, I have the throttle body sitting on my bench using my ratchet strap and rope slings.
No parts were damaged using this process.
I went with light rigging as if anything was going to fail,I wanted it to be the rope slings.
I also took lots of pictures, so that added to the time frame to pop the snorkels out of the rubber boots.
Happy as a clam on high tide that I can now continue my cleaning process under the throttle bodies.
Pics and procedures will follow, maybe turn it into an article if Mellow approves it.

 

[Ron_WI]

Since my post at 2:14pm today and it’s 4:40 pm today, I have the throttle body sitting on my bench using my ratchet strap and rope slings.
No parts were damaged using this process.

Congratulations!

 

[Al Gully]

Congratulations!

Thanks
Now back to your original post.
I have a few hoses, just not all of them, thanks for numbering them as this weekend, I’ll look at my inventory and see what I have.
All this for just replacing a stuck open thermostat.
Yes I know I could have changed it just by removing the rad, but once I did that, the spooge and rusted parts behind it made my mouth drop open.
This 2nd ST bike of mine has been to Alaska, so it showed it on the rad and behind it.
The mud is like concrete on the bike parts.

 

[Ron_WI]

The cross hanger in front of the thermostat and the left-side engine hanger plate were quite rusted on mine too, as well as the top 3 bolts on the water pump. I ordered new replacements for the hangers but I was able to make the water pump bolts look passable with a vinegar soak and some scrubbing.

 

[Al Gully]

I add the 2 front bolts on the thermostat housing to my order, heads were really rusted and it felt like 30 ft lbs to break them instead of the 9 ft lbs there is supposed to be.
2 of the 30mm gear clamps looked like they were going to snap off when I put a 7mm socket on the hex heads, ordered them also.
Throttle body got a bath tonight, all squeaky clean Except for the moly inside the bores.
Simple green was my cleaner tonight, cleaning until the replacement parts arrive.
Partzilla said they will be in stock tomorrow.

 

[SMSW]

The mud is like concrete on the bike parts.

I've not heard of a good way to remove that stuff - calcium chloride, road dust and water? Maybe a reaction with the crushed gravel road dust? Beemerphile rode his airhead BMW up there years ago and did a full strip down restoration on the bike when he was home. He said the dust and dirt got everywhere. You might try a vinegar soak on small parts, but aluminum does not like acetic acid.

 

[SupraSabre]

This is how I have removed the throttlebodies. I have done this procedure now three or four times and it works well!


Tools required:

• Flexible screwdriver, about 12” long
• 10mm ratchet wrench (longer handle)
• Prybar
• Torque screw driver

My process:

To remove the fuel tank and air filter components, please find in the manual.

• If the air filter, lower housing has never been removed, you should use a torque screw driver. (look it up if unsure what it is) If you do not use one, you risk messing up these screws, which are very easy to do. Yes, I’ve been there! (I do not have a diagram/pictures)
• Once those screws are removed, remove the housing.
• There are two hoses under it that have to be removed.
• The throttlebody is now exposed.
• Use the flex screw driver to loosen (not remove) the TOP insulator bands.
• Remove the two bolts on the rear right side of the throttlebody, that connects it to the rear brace. Be careful not to drop the bolts. This relieves some of the tenson on the throttlebody and insulators.

• Use a prybar at the right rear of the throttlebody, (see picture above) near where you removed the bolts. And against the rear frame (pad it) (See picture below):

• By removing the bolts and prying in this area, the right rear part of the throttlebody will separate. Just be careful.
• Once this is separated, go to the front right part of the throttlebody and gently pry up on it. It should popup without too much force.
• Then go to the left front side and pry up.
• Go to the left rear and pry up.
• Still connected will be to coolant hoses and the throttle cables.

Replacing the throttlebody:

• Replace the two bolts to the right rear of the throttlebody, but do not tighten.
• Lube the parts of the throttlebody that will slip back into the insulators. (I like to use plumber’s grease)
• Carefully start on one corner of the throttlebody (right rear, then work around to the right front, left front and left rear) and push down to seat the throttlebody. It might not all seat until all four throats are partially inserted.
• Once it is completely seated, gently tighten the band screws. (Do not over tighten)
• Tighten the two bolts in the rear of the throttlebody.