Coolant

[ASPC]

Many years ago (in the 70's or early 80's), when we were painting our house I called DAP because they had several caulks for sale at our local hardware with different durabilities. I managed to get an engineer at the factory - clearly this was way before tech support 800 numbers and idiots sitting in front of computers who know little more than to read what the database shows. I asked him if their caulk would last 25 years as it said on the tube. He exploded (figuratively) and told me the advertising folks put that $*&#! stuff on the tube but it bore no relation to how the caulk would perform. His points were that joints move, they (the mfr) had no control over how or where or on what the caulk would be applied, and of course, it would NOT last 25 years. His most memorable comment was they would all last around 5 to 10 years if properly applied, and the paint would not last any longer so how could the caulk outlast the paint?

Feel free to believe that label. Read the guarantee. What does it say? How are you going to prove anything? I'll change mine as recommended in the Service Manual. YMMV

Why so condescending?

I don’t believe it will last that long. I use it because it is universal coolant, or am I not supposed to believe that either?

It is completely unnecessary to be insulting about this. Is it because I didn’t use Honda brand coolant?

 

[SMSW]

Why so condescending?
I don’t believe it will last that long. I use it because it is universal coolant, or am I not supposed to believe that either?
It is completely unnecessary to be insulting about this. Is it because I didn’t use Honda brand coolant?

I'm sorry if I offended you. I did not mean to. My scorn is directed at Prestone and their longevity claims.

i don't care what brand anyone uses.

 

[dduelin]

Digital coolant gauges have a wide spread in each of the blocks or graduations. I can't remember exactly but the ST1300's third block or "normal operating temp" is something like 180 degrees to 210 degrees. If various coolant products or dilutions thereof affect the temp the variation might not show up on the gauge.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Even greater spread than that Dave. The third bar is illuminated for a range of approximately 80°F, 44°C.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I know it's early days Phil, but are you still happy with the WATERLESS COOLANT?I can get EVANS locally here so I'm toying with the idea of changing to this stuff with both my bikes and maybe the car...

They say it runs a bit hotter at the cylinder heads, have you found the temp gauge showing different?

Yes it is fine so far and no noticeable difference on the temp gauge on my ST1100.
My main reason was other users (on this board) that said it really made a difference in the cleanness and condition of the coolant system on their STs.
If it makes a ST1100 water pump last longer, that will be goodness cause if it fails, things get ugly real quick - BTDTGTS!
But again it may be like the feller that jumped off 100 story building.
As he passed the 50th floor he was heard to say 'So far so good!'

 

[Bright Rider]

Even greater spread than that Dave. The third bar is illuminated for a range of approximately 80°F, 44°C.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know the low and high temps of this 80 degree spread, i.e. normal range? Thanks.

 

[Larry Fine]

Another reason to like 1100s: analog gauges.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know the low and high temps of this 80 degree spread, i.e. normal range? Thanks.

The third bar operates in a range of between approximately 150° F and 230° F, or 66° C and 110° C.

 

[Bright Rider]

The third bar operates in a range of between approximately 150° F and 230° F, or 66° C and 110° C.

Thank you for the information! Good to know.

 

[Mr.E]

Yes it is fine so far and no noticeable difference on the temp gauge on my ST1100.
My main reason was other users (on this board) that said it really made a difference in the cleanness and condition of the coolant system on their STs.
If it makes a ST1100 water pump last longer, that will be goodness cause if it fails, things get ugly real quick - BTDTGTS!
But again it may be like the feller that jumped off 100 story building.
As he passed the 50th floor he was heard to say 'So far so good!'

Update: I've flushed the whole system and filled with Evans Power Sports R Waterless Coolant which seems to be for Race and Road bikes but now find she's revving up to 2500 / 3000 rpm starting up from stone cold.

Have I used the wrong grade Phil, did you use Power Cool 180 or the Power Sport R...?

 

[Uncle Phil]

I got Evans High Performance Waterless Coolant from Summit Racing - STK # EC53001.

 

[SMSW]

Update: I've flushed the whole system and filled with Evans Power Sports R Waterless Coolant which seems to be for Race and Road bikes but now find she's revving up to 2500 / 3000 rpm starting up from stone cold.

Have I used the wrong grade Phil, did you use Power Cool 180 or the Power Sport R...?

Your coolant has no effect on what rpm the bike will rev to upon starting. You did something else somewhere when you drained and replaced the juice.

Now, had you filled the cooling system with ultra low viscosity liquid helium, then the hp saved turning the water pump might up your quarter mile times. Until the stuff boiled off....

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Update: I've flushed the whole system and filled with Evans Power Sports R Waterless Coolant which seems to be for Race and Road bikes but now find she's revving up to 2500 / 3000 rpm starting up from stone cold.

Barring an untimely coincidence where an issue developed with the SE thermal valve, or the mechanism connecting it, at the same time that you changed the coolant, there is probably an air bubble in the coolant line that circulates coolant to the SE thermal valve. Because it's temperature is not being regulated by the coolant, the SE thermal valve keeps the RPM high because it thinks that the engine is cold- analogous to staying on fast idle with a choke. I know nothing about water-less coolants or the affect that they might have on the SE thermal valve, but I would first try bleeding/burping the cooling system per the manual to make sure that there are no air bubbles in the system.

I had a similar situation that developed just before departing on a trip. I had no time to do anything about it. I went on a 3 or 4,000 KM ride and it fixed itself- I guess that the air bubble eventually got forced out.

 

[Mr.E]

Okay, STK # EC53001 spec looks similar /same as the stuff I bought.

From what I've read they had to modify their claim on HP/BHP, but I have no interest in that area of increasing performance.

Hmmm, I had similar thoughts on that thermal valve, good points made there Andrew, this stuff is fairly watery in consistency but I'll have another check on the Radiator level 10 minutes after reaching 3 bars ~ when I'm of a mind to take all the Right side plastic off again...

She starts okay at about 2000 rpm then slowly increases to 2,500'ish which isn't overly high but I'm a real fussy sod! - then slows down to 1000 after a few minutes which isn't far off the ST spec.

 

[Mr.E]

Another update, fired her up late last night and surprisingly she's now running fine, must have been an air bubble as Andrew mentioned.
When I finished this job I made sure there was a good flow of coolant from the Thermal Valve pipe leading back into the Radiator just below the filler neck/Rad cap.
One of the great advantages of this stuff is you remove the Rad cap at running temperature without any risks of pressure - as it takes 180C + (356F) before boiling!

All looks good.

 

[TotaledTL]

Why so condescending?

I don’t believe it will last that long. I use it because it is universal coolant, or am I not supposed to believe that either?

It is completely unnecessary to be insulting about this. Is it because I didn’t use Honda brand coolant?

Don't think he was being condescending. Brings up valid points from his experience re: mfg. advertised claims.

Has anybody installed a real coolant temp sensor/gauge so the real temps are displayed?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Has anybody installed a real coolant temp sensor/gauge so the real temps are displayed?

If you are interested to have an idea of what temperature each temperature gauge bar relates to- see below.

Thermocouple installed about 1/8” away from the Honda temperature sensor.
Bar 1 comes on at 123° F.
Bar 2 comes on at 136° F.
Bar 3 comes on at 150° F.
Bar 4 comes on at 230° F.

Courtesy of @turbocity tom.

 

[ST1100Y]

... I see that the coolant level needs to be checked when the engine is warm...

Dunno if #Igofar would agree, but (after fully bleeding of course) I see to have the level at the MIN mark with a cold engine...
I can observe it climbing to 1/2 while warming up (i.e. during carb sync)... should not exceed the MAX line during normal operation temps anyway...

 

[Andrew Shadow]

In my opinion, as long as the coolant level does not exceed the maximum line when the engine is at full operating temperature and does not fall below the minimum line when the engine is cold, don't worry about it and go ride.

 

[ST1100Y]

My main reason was other users (on this board) that said it really made a difference in the cleanness and condition of the coolant system on their STs.
If it makes a ST1100 water pump last longer, that will be goodness cause if it fails, things get ugly real quick - BTDTGTS!

Being water-less should also eliminate the scale build-up at O-rings- and hose-flanges, thus might even deal with the reoccurring "elbow O-ring failures"...
Dunno if it'll prevent the cast aluminum elbows from cracking though... but this could as well been caused by expanding scale build-ups...