NOTE: These pictures were gathered and shared from other forum members, I take no credit for the actual pictures.
I don't understand something. If you cracked the hose, then the tank would be self draining - and quickly at that. Or did you simply get a crack and not a complete rupture? If the latter, you were lucky.
It doesn’t crack with age. The Honda design is rife with the opportunity to tear the hose. The tank’s hinge which is also the seat height adjuster to be shifted to the proper position and kept there while the front is raised. If the tank hinge shifts from the maintenance position while raising the tank the stress on the joint hose tears it or cuts it with the sharp edge of the metal tube the joint hose slips over.
I did a semi tank removal recently,,, which was even less work. First,,, I had run the upper tanks fuel level down,, well below 2 bars,, before digging in. Then,, removed the front tank hold down bolts and the one long rear keeper bolt. Slide the tank joining tube off, at the lower tank, after releasing the lower hose clamp. Then, I just put that chunk of foam and an old towel under the back of the tank,, and after tipping the tank back,, held it in place with a bungee cord or two. I did not have to unplug any other hoses or wires. This allows great access to the air-box. And does not stress the tank joint hose. And if you have heli-bar or mcl bar risers,,, interference when tipping the tank is not an issue. Just one more way to skin a cat,,,,, cheers,, CAt'
Just a crack.. the fuel spewed out only when the tank is lifted. It stops dripping when the tank is back down.
I could not find a post to instruct me how to remove the upper tank and how to drain it before removal to avoid even more fuel leaking out.
Exactly.. this was my first filter change, so I raised the tank two or three times just to understand the procedure.. it was on the 4th raise that the hose cracked.. something I did that time cracked it, vs. the first time. This is the first time the tank has been raised since the bike was new. (bike only has 9500 miles on it)
Sorry to hear about this. As a rule of thumb always raise the tank with no more than two bars on the fuel gauge. At that point there is no fuel in the upper tank. Also, I would advise to order a new clip for the side that goes on the lower tank. This will make the job much easier for the cost of about $4. I just replaced my joint hose after 16 yrs. The old one really did look ok. So they do last a long time, maybe forever if you follow precaution and good mechanics.
Hey Catman, thanks for the response.. when you say "I did not have to unplug any other hoses or wires".. surely, before lifting the tank, you had to first remove the cord attached to the upper tank that prevents the upper tank from lifting beyond the length of the support rod? Also, what is your procedure to remove the clamp on the joint tube? i.e. do you use just a pair of pliers, or maybe channel lock pliers? I'll be doing this work tomorrow (Sat) because the hose finally arrived at my Honda dealer today.I did a semi tank removal recently,,, which was even less work. First,,, I had run the upper tanks fuel level down,, well below 2 bars,, before digging in. Then,, removed the front tank hold down bolts and the one long rear keeper bolt. Slide the tank joining tube off, at the lower tank, after releasing the lower hose clamp. Then, I just put that chunk of foam and an old towel under the back of the tank,, and after tipping the tank back,, held it in place with a bungee cord or two. I did not have to unplug any other hoses or wires. This allows great access to the air-box. And does not stress the tank joint hose. And if you have heli-bar or mcl bar risers,,, interference when tipping the tank is not an issue. Just one more way to skin a cat,,,,, cheers,, CAt'
That cable was removed by my previous owner,,, and since I never tip the tank with the fuel hose installed,,, it's absence is not an issue. Likewise,,, I don't have any use for the prop rod. Both items are in a parts box somewhere. Have you run your fuel load down below 2-bars,, prior to tomorrow's servicing ?? Oh,,, and for the lower fuel hose clamp,,, I just grab a pair of battery pliers,,, but anything would do. I don't understand the hype over these clamps. Mine are very routine,,,, cheers,,, CAt'
Alan, we have to have an alternative to oil threads.
I'm stuck...trying to remove the upper tank to access the throttle bodies and harnesses beneath, in searc of the expected damage to the harnesses due to mice.Finally got around to replacing the fuel hose. Appreciate the guidance from both Igofar and Catmandu2, I could not have done it without their help. I followed Igofar's instructions to remove the seat bracket and disconnect the hose from the fuel pump. I followed Catman's advice to not remove any other hoses, just lay the fuel tank over after removing the fuel hose. I was careful to not put any tension on the two other hose connections on the underside of the upper tank, which required removing them from the guide hooks attached to the upper tank which are intended to hold them in a certain position under the upper tank. By removing those two hoses from the guide hooks, it gave more slack which allowed laying the tank completely on its back. I was sure to put a blanket under the upper tank before laying it back onto the frame. That allowed me to detach the fuel hose from the upper tank. See attached photo showing the crack that I somehow caused when raising the tank to replace my air filter. After replacing the hose into the upper tank, I then lowered the tank back down. Then I reattached the fuel hose to the connection on the lower tank. I did use penetrating oil for both removing and re-attaching the hose. Now that I understand how the fuel hose connects to both the upper and lower tank, I will always disconnect it going forward when I need to access the air box, rather than using the connecting rod to tip the fuel tank back. Somehow, tipping the tank back caused my hose to crack. Always just detach the hose first and then raise and lift the tank back to access the air box.
Yes, then you can remove the lower spring clamp as Igofar said.
