Cruise Control

Joined
Jan 4, 2012
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Ireland
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'04 ST1300 ABS
I now there are a few cruise control threads here but I thought I would ask on a new one. (is that ok?)
So I had an audiovox CCS-100 installed on my last bike but now I have just bought my 1st Pan ST1300. Unfortunately I did not take the cruise control unit off my last bike before I sold it & now I have to buy another one.
The kicker is I have been reading that they were for sale for $60 or so. All I can find online now is on amazon.com for $185 & they will not ship to Ireland.

My question is does anyone know where I can buy one cheaper & that will ship to Ireland.

P.s the last one I bought in 2006 cost $136 including vac canister & motorbike mount for controller.
 

MileHigh

Juvenile delinquent
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$185 for a CCS -100 is not too bad these days if you can actually find one. Yea.....I actually purchased a CCS-100 for $30 way back when. Sold it because I really wanted an actual electronic unit.

Probably spent ~$600 to install my Rosta, including GoldWing switch on the right handle bar. :D

Maybe you could work something out with a member here or someone in the states to get it for you and have it shipped. :shrug1:
 

Blrfl

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Audiovox replaced the CCS-100 with a new model called the Ultracruise II that has an electrically-driven servo. They seem to run about the same price as the CCS-100, but I think I'd install one over a CCS to avoid having to deal with vacuum lines and a reservoir.

If you get one, make sure it's part number 250-1316, which should be able to handle the VSS pulses on the ST without needing a divider.

--Mark
 
OP
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'04 ST1300 ABS
Thanks for relys. I have never been a fan of throttle locks, I just done think that they are as safe as the electronic ones. I have had a throttle stick on me before & it was scary so I prefer a system that will cut out as soon as a break is touched. In saying that I did have to think about it for a while at the price of the go cruise.

Audiovox replaced the CCS-100 with a new model called the Ultracruise II that has an electrically-driven servo. They seem to run about the same price as the CCS-100, but I think I'd install one over a CCS to avoid having to deal with vacuum lines and a reservoir.
Thanks for the info, I have been looking at the Ultracruise II & I see taht you have to buy the controller separately :( Is the one with the Engagement Light better or would the light just be annoying?
I installed a CCS in 2006 on a Suzuki DL-650 but have forgotten all the wiring details (had a lot of online help with it). How difficult would the Ultracruise be to install?
 

Bigmak96

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Thanks for relys. I have never been a fan of throttle locks,
Have you thought about the Break Away lock? It is fool proof in that the front brake lever kicks it off. A button push does as well. I like mine.
I guess tho, while typing I realized that if the "fool" in one takes over and I forget to use the front brake,,,there could be problems. Good unit tho if one does not mess up that way.
 

Blrfl

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I have been looking at the Ultracruise II & I see taht you have to buy the controller separately :( Is the one with the Engagement Light better or would the light just be annoying?
The one that came with my CCS-100 has a power indicator that I don't really notice because the front of the panel is low enough that it doesn't point at my face. I do like the backlighting in the switches, though.

How difficult would the Ultracruise be to install?
I haven't done an Ultracruise, but it should be easier than a CCS since you don't have to mess with vacuum lines. Any of the articles on installing the CCS should provide enough guidance to get you started. The hard part is getting the linkage to the bell crank on the throttle bodies set up properly, and that's the same.

IMPORTANT: I misspoke earlier. The VSS on the ST puts out about 80,000 pulses per mile and the Ultracruise can only handle 38,600. So you will still need a pulse divider on the VSS line.

--Mark
 
OP
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Ireland
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'04 ST1300 ABS
So I am thinking that the CCS-100 with Vac canister would be easier to install as you don't have to worry about the VSS. Just a couple of questions?

Is there any performance differences between these or is it just a different operation?
Is the VAC strong enough for long trips on motorway with cruise left on? The reason I ask is that I find that the throttle is a bit heavier than my last bike (a DL-650 V-Strom) & I found that after 30 mins @ 130km/h (high enough speed) that my speed would start reducing a bit. Does the bigger engine have a stronger vac points & cover this?

I have someone going to Chicago tomorrow for 1 week so if I can make up my mind I could get it shipped there & save $50 on shipping & getting caught in Ireland for import duties also. So time is not on my side at the moment :(

Any suggestions?
 

fiziks

I brake things.
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IMPORTANT: I misspoke earlier. The VSS on the ST puts out about 80,000 pulses per mile and the Ultracruise can only handle 38,600. So you will still need a pulse divider on the VSS line.
An online brochure I found says the CSS-100 only supports VSS up to 8,000 pulses per mile. So I assume you'd need a divider for the original CSS-100 also, yes? Also, what is VSS, where does one get a "divider" and how does one wire it into the VSS?
 
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I've put 5-6 CSS-100'S ON BIKES , the last one was my ST1300 last fall. Here's the link to Murph's Kits ( http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/), he has the rites to mfg. the css-100 because Audiovox dropped the line. Murph is great to deal with, check with him regarding shipping over the pond.:D
 
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An online brochure I found says the CSS-100 only supports VSS up to 8,000 pulses per mile. So I assume you'd need a divider for the original CSS-100 also, yes? Also, what is VSS, where does one get a "divider" and how does one wire it into the VSS?
Since no one responded to this I will help out here.

VSS = Vehicle Speed Signal.

Basically the old 1100 had a mechanical cable that spun and connected to the back of the dash to work the speedometer. The 1300 is all electronic. There is a wire that has a pulse of power that then goes to a stepper motor to move the speedometer needle. In the newer cruise controls they tap into the VSS wire to get the signal for the speed. Then electronically run everything. The problem is that the pulse rate of the 1300 is much too fast for these cruise controls to properly read the signal. A signal divider is basically a filter and it sits between where you tapped into the VSS and the cruise. If you have it set to 1/2 it only lets every other pulse through. If you go to 1/3 only 1 in 3 get through so on and so forth. That is why it is called s signal divider. It divides up the pulses only letting a fraction through and gets the pulses per mile down to a level that the cruise can understand. I haven't had to buy one so I couldn't say where to get one for sure but one could be made, there isn't much to them. Or a Google search will likely locate one.

I have done an install of the older vac version but not the newer electronic. I am debating now on doing one on my 1300. On the older one you tap into one of the coil packs for RPM and then it uses Vac power to run the device. The problem is that you are taping into the vac system which can introduce leaks. Also the fact that the vac system isn't that big on the bike means that if you come to a really big hill, at times it doesn't have enough vac power to pull the throttle open enough to maintain speed. It is fine for small rolling hills but bigger ones are a problem. The way to fix this is to make or buy a small vac tank to act as a supply of vac to assist the system. You add a check valve so you don't loose all your vac everytime the engine is stopped or in low idle conditions. Some have gotten by with adding a bunch of vac line which is another option.

Bottom line is that the advantage of the VSS version is that there isn't the chance to a vac leak, and no issues on hills but you have to mess with a signal divider. The advantage of the vac is that it is well documented on the install as it is a popular farkle. They work as long as you address the vac tank or extra line and are careful in splices.

Hope that helps clear things up a little.
 
OP
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Ireland
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'04 ST1300 ABS
@ stew109r & crazylarry - I have actually just bought one from Murfkits.com. He was very helpful but it would have cost $70 to get it over the pond. So I happened to have a friend over there who will bring it back for me. Result.

I had a look at both options & decided to go witht he CCS-100 as there was more info about installing it online & I didn't want to go messing with a the pulse devider.

On my last bike I did find that it would loose vac power on long high speed trips (even with vas canister) but I put that down to it only being a 650 V-twin & I was riding 2up & fully loaded. The 1300 should have more suction. Hopefully!
 
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Looking at putting cruise on my 13 but I have the speaker PODs installed is there any alternate locations for the actuators? sorry to hijack
 
OP
OP
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Ireland
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'04 ST1300 ABS
So I started installing the CSS-100 on my ST1300 only to get hit with problem after problem, mainly small ones that just get really frustrating. The 1st major one was that the threads on the throttle drum rung off when I has the cruise control arm & washer on it. I have taken our the washer & used loads of JB Weld to hold it in place (the nut could still get the threads without the washer).
The next 2 problems that I have hit I need a little help with?

1. The arm for the cruise control cable is hitting off the breather hose that connects to the front of the filter box. I cut down the arm supplied with the CSS to only have 2 holes left & I connected the cable to the top hole. I would have thought that cutting the arm down to only 1 hole would not have given enough travel for the CSS cable to pull on. & now the arm is glued in place so cutting it down to 1 hole is going to be really really difficult.

2. When everything was connected up I checked the throttle to make sure the CSS cable would not snag or restrict the main throttle cables from closing. All was ok until I put the airbox & tank back on. Now the throttle is sticking :( I have the HELI Gen III bar risers which might not be helping but the throttle was ok before I started the Cruise Control.

Any help / suggestions on either problem would be great as my brain is just fried now!!!
 
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Did you look at the directions that are out there. I know when I did an install for someone I also tried to leave that arm a little longer than the directions. It worked great until I installed the air filter housing. The arm hits the bottom. I had to pull it and cut it down to the same length shown in the directions. I don't recall if that was 1 or 2 holes left on the arm. But in my case the issue 1 and 2 were one in the same. You may find that what it is binding on is the bottom of the air box. I doubt it has anything to do with the risers. As you mentioned you had no issues before the cruise.

I just bought a CSS-100 today for my 1300. The other install that I did was for a member here that didn't want to tackle the install himself and he left his 1300 at my place for about a week while I did the install for him.

Another word of caution is the beads. I want to say that we use 7 beads from my memory. If I snapped the throttle open/closed while flicking at the beads as they may do while going down the road, I was able to get them to get tangled in the throttle body. Since I thought it would be bad to someone's health (me in testing and the owner once he took the bike back) I opted to take a bit of aluminum sheet metal and fabricated a shield that goes between the cruise cable/beads and throttle bodies to keep them from getting hung up. I made something out of cardboard and then transfered the pattern to metal.

Take a close look at that arm. My guess is that it is hitting the bottom of the air box. Like I said it was the issue that I had.
 
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