Dead battery ...is this a normal symptom?

[omniron]

No warning of a failing battery. Each prior start was textbook perfect. Then suddenly the bike wouldn't start -- dead battery, lights dim, barely cranked over, then solenoid clicking sounds. I jumped the battery, started instantly, and I was able to ride the bike home. It's now parked in the garage. Started just fine the next morning with a cold engine and cold battery.

Just asking for advice. I don't want to get caught dead again, but not sure it's really the battery. Otherwise, the bike is performing perfectly. Is it just best to spring for a new battery and avoid the hassle? My ST is a 2005. I've owned the bike since June. Not sure, but I think it's the original battery.

 

[nhdiesel]

There will be a date code stamped into the battery case...I'd take the time to check it, and if its original, definitely replace it...its well due. If it isn't very old, then I'd spend a little more time to confirm its the battery, and not just a bad/dirty connection or other issue.

 

[SupraSabre]

When I was up in Sacramento this weekend with temps in the low 30's, I could tell my battery didn't like it! Hard starting. Put a battery tender on it and see if maybe it hasn't had time to fully charge during your last few rides?

 

[Rick Gibson]

I'll bet its the battery.

 

[jfheath]

Sounds like a duff battery to me. For me, the sign has always been an inability to hold a charge over a couple of days. If i was using the bike regularly, it would run ok, and start up ok the next day. But leave the bike standing for a couple of days, and there would inadequate charge to start the engine. This is very noticeable on the later uk st1300s as you can't turn off the lights. Eventually, although keeping it on charge overnight ensures that you can set off in the morning, there is no guarantee that it will start in the evening. Especially if the temperature has dropped. Replacing the battery takes away the worries.

Ive had the bike since 2007 and it has had 2 batteries. The first after a year. The bike had been idle in the showroom for a year, and the first winter saw it off. The second when it started to fail to keep its charge for very long, and we were about to embark on a camping trip.

 

[Blrfl]

Make sure the terminals are clean and secure, charge the battery, put a voltmeter on it and crank the starter. If the voltage falls below 10 when cranking, it's time for a new one.

--Mark

 

[st1300r]

+1 what blrfl said.
Make sure the connections at both ends are clean and then tighten them.
With a full charge and it drops below 10volts it's on it's way out.

Could be the battery or it could be resistance from dirty connections to it.
Worth checking the cheaper end of the equation 1st.

Are all your mods on a switched circuit so nothing can get left on?
imop the battery size selected by honda is a little on the small side.
With a good battery leaving the lights on for a short period of time you're toast.

 

[ChucksKLRST]

Yes, I have had numerous motorcycle batteries fail like that over the years. Last winter my Jeep battery failed exactly the same way.

 

[omniron]

Thank you for the many replies. I needed some perspective about this minor problem (albeit a little expensive) with an aging battery. I'll use your several suggestions for testing it under load.

This is truly a great site to help each other enjoy this incredible motorcycle even more. BTW, is there any other bike out there that has been produced for almost a decade -- 2003 to 2012, so far -- without needing redesigns to stay competitive in the sport touring market? This bike has really great "bones" and a fantastic engine ...not to mention sexy styling.

 

[omniron]

Just to follow up (and close this thread, I guess). Rather than deal with the hassle, I just bought a new battery. The original lasted 6 years, through three owners. My final comment is to ask when did low-tech lead-acid batteries get so expensive? It feels like they cost twice what they're actually worth. Am I just getting old ...is that the problem? The current round of inflation caused by insane monetary policy in the U.S. hasn't helped.

 

[Blrfl]

The price of lead has gone up quite a bit in recent years, and AGMs are more expensive to produce than flooded batteries.

Or you're just getting old. Have you asked anyone to get off your lawn lately?

--Mark

 

[Ross Smith]

Consider trying a Shorai Lithium Iron battery as well. Great battery for hot climate environments. Can't tell you the price there, but here an St Yuasa is $120.00 or so while the Shorai was $186.00 Cdn. If they last as long as estimated, you'll probably change the bike before the battery again.

If you got 6 years from your lead / acid you did well. 5 is good. The OEM Panasonic battery in our old Acura Integra failed after 8 years in exactly the same way you described. I drove the car into the garage one night, shut it off and next morning found it completely dead, (0 volts). Shorted plates. Have never found a battery that could replace it.

Ross

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

No warning of a failing battery

Normal if it got cold ( when most battery problems show up ). Due to chem of battery it loses almost 50% chanking power if below 32f. Marginal batteries that work when warm suddenly go bad this time of year.

Since yr working on an '05 battery, its prob about time anyway.

 

[BakerBoy]

Regarding the prices...yes the batteries have about doubled in price in 10 years...I don't know why.

We often assume that lead cost is the reason for expensive batteries, and I doubt that. Lead goes for ~$1/lb on the open market. A Yuasa YTZ14S battery weights about 8 lbs, perhaps 5 lbs being lead. So, even if lead doubled (assuming battery manufacturers pay open market prices, which they don't), that would explain perhaps $5 of the battery price. Lead prices would have had to increase by about $10-$15 per pound to be the explanation for todays battery prices.