dead battery...replacement at NAPA????

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Well, the oem battery in my '03 ST1300 died at the end of last year and with it getting close to spring time I've decided to start looking for a replacement battery.
I found one at NAPA Auto parts that is the same size (a fraction of an inch shorter), 12v, 120 cc at 0 degrees F. The part # is ETX9

Just wondering if anyone knows the specs on the stock yuasa batteries and if this one at NAPA will work.
 
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Red wolf
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Well, i decided to get the battery anyways since it was fairly inexpensive ($100) compared to the others and it has a 12 month full replacement warranty anyways. Plus i have had good luck with NAPA batteries for a few other bikes.

I will let you know how it does but i would still like to know if anyone else has any experience with it in their bike.
 

dduelin

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CCA is just an apples to apples standard used to compare batteries. If the OEM and good aftermarket batteries are 230 CCA why spend $60 on a 130 CCA battery?
 
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I bought a Scorpion for my 05 last August for $69,00 so far so good.... 220 CCA I got it from BatteryStuff an had it at my door in 3 days.
 
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Red wolf
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I spent a lot less then $100 ($40 instead), that is just the standard cost for it.
It's a lot harder to get batteries here without going through a dealer, buying from the states the shipping and import fees will make it close to the same as a dealer bought battery. The battery i bought will last at least 2 years (due to the warranty on it), which IMHO is a lot better deal then spending $150+ for one to last 5 years

anyways, it's hooked up to my bike, starts it, runs (at idle), doesn't have power being overdrawn on it. As soon as i get a chance to actually take it for a ride (probably a month and a half away) I will update on its condition or if it doesn't maintain power in the bike without running for a month.
P.S.
it has another rating of 12.4 Ah at hour 10
 
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Stock is rated at 230cca and 11.2 ahr. Some aftermarkets are listed at 190cca.
Keep in mind CCA is not an apples to apples comparison.
Some calculate a value based on other load testing, some test at other than 0? and the published value is pass fail not a strict number.

Roughly yould could think of cca (if you could compare them) as how good is the battery at a short high current draw. The Ahr rating how long could you have a low current drain until the battery is discharged. Cold is a worst case as the chemical reaction slows down.

High current as in starting the bike.
Low current as in leaving the GPS on. A load of 1/10 of the Ahr value. aka 1.1amps.
It's not linear so a 10amp load say lights etc. on aint' gonna last 1.12 hours.
 

dduelin

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Stock is rated at 230cca and 11.2 ahr. Some aftermarkets are listed at 190cca.
Keep in mind CCA is not an apples to apples comparison.
Some calculate a value based on other load testing, some test at other than 0? and the published value is pass fail not a strict number.

Roughly yould could think of cca (if you could compare them) as how good is the battery at a short high current draw. The Ahr rating how long could you have a low current drain until the battery is discharged. Cold is a worst case as the chemical reaction slows down.

High current as in starting the bike.
Low current as in leaving the GPS on. A load of 1/10 of the Ahr value. aka 1.1amps.
It's not linear so a 10amp load say lights etc. on aint' gonna last 1.12 hours.
CCA is a standard - how many amps can a battery deliver for 30 seconds at 0 degrees F before the battery drops below 7.2 volts. If the seller or manufacturer is using one or more different variables to calculate CCA then it really isn't CCA. It might be MCA or HCA which are the same variables with the exception being ambient temperature of 32 or 80 degrees F. CCA to CCA is supposed to be apples to apples.

Ah is also "generally" measured at the 20 hour rate but this can vary, as pointed out, by either the load or time period. Puekerts Law describes how the capacity of a lead acid battery is decreased by increasing load and that the relationship between load and time are not linear. Starting batteries generally do not support high Ah ratings due to how the battery is constructed but that is OK because of the job they do. Starting batteries give a lot of amps for a short period of time when cranking the starter motor. As soon as the engine starts and the alternator ramps up online the amps used by the starter are beginning to be replaced and the engine's electrical generation system supports the load of lights and accessories.

Because of the high current inrush needed for starting CCA is an important part of choosing a starting battery. Batteries fail for a variety of reasons but all things considered the amount of a battery's capacity is discharged and charged in each charge cycle impacts how many charge/discharge cycles are in that battery's future. If the same amount of amps are required to start an engine each time then a battery with less capacity discharges to a greater degree when starting the engine compared to a battery of higher capacity. CCA is how we measure this capacity and by extension discharge/charge cycles of life span.

It may not pay to buy the most expensive battery over time but rarely does a battery of low CCA outperform or outlast a battery of higher CCA. It is just the number of chemical reactions the battery can supply. A brand new lower rating battery will still have more than enough power to supply the needed amps, it probably just won't last as long.
 
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So....you're basically saying that it should work fine under normal conditions and that there is no need for me to worry?
Yes. Unless it doesn't!
Reading lots of stuff around the .net the last couple of days I'm not sure you can take the battery manufacturer or spec and make a statement it will have a longer or shorter life.
Too many variables in usage/ maintenance/ conditions to pin down an expected life cycle. IMHO.
 

dduelin

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Dave, you are right but if the same rider had one low end and one high end battery and took care of them the same way and we throw out random defect failures a higher spec could be expected to out perform a lower spec.

Otherwise why create standards to begin with?
 
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Supposed to be standard SAE J537, although I haven't seen a vendor claim it to that. Not that some don't. Anywho the low cca means that you should run into trouble faster in cold weather than the original. Not to say that it won't work. Be interesting to see how it performs in the real world.

There's a zillion variables in making batteries and choices when designing them.
A house battery designed for long periods of relatively low draw will have fewer but bigger plates that tend to last longer and take more abuse. Since the result is less surface area they won't develop high cranking amps. Starting batteries have more surface area to provide higher short term current and therefore less ability to take abuse. There's only so much room in a given battery jar so you have to make trade offs. Starting batteries with comparatively less CCA probably have less there in there or they made different choices with paste formulation or mfg techniques.
 

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I've read a bunch of posts all over the place that guys with good life with the OEM Yuasa battery only get 2 years or whatever with a replacement of same type/ spec.
many un-happy folks with the replacements. So are standards standard? I don't know.
This size/ type battery is used in a bunch of Honda motorcycles from the factory.
That's why I'm trying the Scorpion. Same spec and less $$. I will not know if it's lousy until some years from now, I hope.
I've read folks have just fine luck with Wal-Mart batteries. Couple on this board! Same spec? I have no clue. NAPA might be as good? Again. I don't have a clue.
My old battery started the bike this morning and it's pretty shot from the voltage readings I took. JUST started! 25F this morning. I guess my point from that is what does it take to start the bike?
 
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Fwiw my scorpion is getting a little slow when it's 25? or so out. This is the second winter it's seen. Hasn't gotten to the point of resetting the clock etc.

It's been surmised that the yuasa you get as a replacement is materialy different than the one sold to honda although marketed as meeting the same specs.
It's a little small for a 1300cc v4 in my opinion.
 
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Roughly yould could think of cca (if you could compare them) as how good is the battery at a short high current draw. The Ahr rating how long could you have a low current drain until the battery is discharged. Cold is a worst case as the chemical reaction slows down.
dduelin hit it well above, but to put things in a little different wording- you are actually comparing apples to oranges, as in two different types of batteries. There are two main types of automotive (I'm including MC batteries in here, since they are similar, just smaller) batteries- starting, and deep cycle. Starting batteries are just as the name implies- they are used to start the vehicle, then (unless there are issues) are topped off when the engine starts, and aren't really used again until the vehicle has to be started again. The alternator provides power as we ride, except for brief moments where the battery might act as a capacitor when there are short, high loads that might overpower the alternator. They aren't meant to be drained a lot, then charged back up. Each time a starting battery is drained low, it vastly shortens it's life. A deep cycle (commonly known as a marine battery) is made to provide a slower rate of discharge, usually for a trolling motor or RV backup battery when the engine is off. They can be drained low and recharged many times.

The CCA rating of a starting battery is the best rating for that type of battery. It uses a constant temp, and a cold one- where a starting battery has to work the hardest, to equal the playing field. An Ahr rating is for a deep cycle battery, which is subjected to repeated discharges, and is best rated for how much current it puts out over time.

For battery ratings, they are just a rough guideline at best. There has to be some way to compare them, so CCA is used (for starting batteries). There are lots of other factors though, such as the actual quality of the battery. Just because two batteries might be rated at 220 CCA, it doesn't mean they will last the same length of time. Its like comparing car engines- two 250hp engines that get the same fuel mileage won't necessarily last the same amount of time...one might go for 100k miles, the other for 300k.

As for comparing a replacement Yuasa to the ones that came in our bikes, I'm of the strong belief that they are indeed different. I can't say whether they are actually different designs, or just built to different tolerances, I think the long history reported on this site alone has shown the difference. Most OEM Yuasa's seem to last 4-6 years, while replacements get 2-3 years. Even if they are made on the same assembly line to the same (supposedly) specs, they may well be a different quality. I used to work in the bearing business. Our company made precision bearings for many uses, including military, aerospace, and computer hard drives. Sometimes the very same bearing, including the same part number, could be found in military components and a household appliance. Whats the difference? When they are inspected, the best of the best, held to the best tolerances, go to the military; the stuff that doesn't pass for their use gets packaged for uses that don't require the same precision. Obviously the military grade bearing will work better and last longer. I suspect our batteries are the same way. They may very well came off the same assembly line- but while the best of the best go to be assembled into new bikes, the ones that weren't quite as good get sold as replacements. That would easily explain why replacements seem to last less than half as long.

I'm in need of a new battery...my 6 year old OEM is failing. If I could get the same battery, that would last another 6 years, for $150 or even $175, I would gladly pay it- just for peace of mind that I won't have to worry about it for several more years. But since history has shown I won't get that kind of life, I would rather spend half as much on a battery that will most likely (again, going by reports on this site) last just as long as a replacement Yuasa. I'll probably be contacting Two Brothers for my replacement.

Jim
 
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Here 6 years on the original , but replacement Yuasa dead after 1 1/2 year....thought could have been a fluke...but maybe not from what I read here.

I've not had good luck with the OEM Yuasa's, both of them installed by the dealer. The first one that came with the bike lasted all of 18 months, the second, warranty replacement, lasted all of a little over a year. After that experience, I take great issue with spending $$$$$ on a replacement Yuasa if they are going to last only as long as a battery that costs half as much.

For batteries, I trust BatterySTuff.com and, currently, I'm using the Scorpion battery they sell. The first one died after nine months due to a bad cell but was replaced under warranty. The current battery has been installed is eleven months old but I did accidently run it down too much by leaving the GPS on too long, recently. I'm hoping that won't kill the life of the battery too much.

That being said, no car I've had or motorcycle I've owned has had a battery last longer than about 3.5 years here in Texas. I've tried various makes/models in the cages over the years with no improvement in lifespan. Currently, we have a Wal-Mart Maxx in the car and a Costco Kirkland battery in the SUV and they both have been replaced under pro-rated warranty. The heat down here does them in.

After this one dies, I may try the new Li-Ion battery, depending on finances.
 
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