Hi,
WRT my recent confirmed (now) charging system failure, I'm trying to figure out it is is the VRR for sure.
I've followed the manual in diagnostic checks - here are my findings:
1. Reg/Rect wiring harness resistance check - all is goodL
2. VRR inspection (this is where things are blurry - given Honda manual says you can only check with there meter) - results are:
Red/white to each yellow (spec is open with neg probe on red/white) - measured with neg on red/white is ~4,6 M Ohm for a 3 yellows. However if i reverse the leads (wrong per manual) i get opens.
Red/white to each yellow (spec is 7.5K Ohm with pos probe on red/white) - measured per spec yeilds 4.6 M Ohm for all 3 yellows. Way out of spec if meter used is valid.
White to Yellows (spec is open with Positive probe on white) - measured is ~ 15 M Ohm for all 3 yellows (out of spec), However if i reverse the leads (wrong per manual) I get opens
White to Red/White, Yellows (spec is 60kOhm to R/W, and 28KOhm to yellows) - measured is open for all of these which is out of spec. Of course if i reverse polarity i get the 15 MOhm (which is the same check as above).
3. Alt Inspection 3P and 2P connectors
Yellow to Yellow terminals (spec is 0-1 Ohm) - measured is .5 Ohm on all 3 - checks good.
Then it states Yellow to white terminal should be Open (assuming this is the white on the 2P) - measured is open on all 3 - checks good.
Then it states Yellow to red/white terminal should be Open - well there is no red/white in the 2P only a white and then the black wire. So if I MAKE THE ASSUMPTION that the manual meant the black wire (the only other wire in the 2P) then there is no continuity and it is good. Any one know if the manual has ERRORED?
2P connector (black to white 0 - 4 Ohm) - measured ~ 3.0 Ohm - checks good
Lastly if it looks like the VRR is the issue - that would be good as i really don't want to do 40A surgery right now - its been one of the ST bad years for me! Would anyone have a known good VRR from a 40A upgrade or is there an aftermarket VRR that may be better a more reliable design than the OEM?
Thanks,
Paul
WRT my recent confirmed (now) charging system failure, I'm trying to figure out it is is the VRR for sure.
I've followed the manual in diagnostic checks - here are my findings:
1. Reg/Rect wiring harness resistance check - all is goodL
2. VRR inspection (this is where things are blurry - given Honda manual says you can only check with there meter) - results are:
Red/white to each yellow (spec is open with neg probe on red/white) - measured with neg on red/white is ~4,6 M Ohm for a 3 yellows. However if i reverse the leads (wrong per manual) i get opens.
Red/white to each yellow (spec is 7.5K Ohm with pos probe on red/white) - measured per spec yeilds 4.6 M Ohm for all 3 yellows. Way out of spec if meter used is valid.
White to Yellows (spec is open with Positive probe on white) - measured is ~ 15 M Ohm for all 3 yellows (out of spec), However if i reverse the leads (wrong per manual) I get opens
White to Red/White, Yellows (spec is 60kOhm to R/W, and 28KOhm to yellows) - measured is open for all of these which is out of spec. Of course if i reverse polarity i get the 15 MOhm (which is the same check as above).
3. Alt Inspection 3P and 2P connectors
Yellow to Yellow terminals (spec is 0-1 Ohm) - measured is .5 Ohm on all 3 - checks good.
Then it states Yellow to white terminal should be Open (assuming this is the white on the 2P) - measured is open on all 3 - checks good.
Then it states Yellow to red/white terminal should be Open - well there is no red/white in the 2P only a white and then the black wire. So if I MAKE THE ASSUMPTION that the manual meant the black wire (the only other wire in the 2P) then there is no continuity and it is good. Any one know if the manual has ERRORED?
2P connector (black to white 0 - 4 Ohm) - measured ~ 3.0 Ohm - checks good
Lastly if it looks like the VRR is the issue - that would be good as i really don't want to do 40A surgery right now - its been one of the ST bad years for me! Would anyone have a known good VRR from a 40A upgrade or is there an aftermarket VRR that may be better a more reliable design than the OEM?
Thanks,
Paul
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