Here's my take on a dash shelf, built on the efforts of others.
It was built of scraps of aluminum I had laying around, so cost=$0.
I did it while I had the front end torn apart to put in the HID lights, so it took me about 2 hours to design and fabricate it, not including fairing dis/mantling.
Apologies for the blurry pictures; the best camera is the one you have with you; my daughter had the good camera off doing something while I was doing this project.
First, I put threaded inserts in the holes where the top trim clips connect the two dash parts together.
The reason for these inserts is so that I can install the screw from the top without needing to hold something at the bottom (which can be buried).
Then, I made some short brackets from 1x1x1/16" aluminum angle. These mount to the top of the windshield adjustment track. The right side of the bike uses the two M6 bolts holding the upper limit switch; the left side uses the threaded holes that match those. The angle was bent open slightly so that the top matches the curve of the dash.
The upper bracket was made from some flat aluminum, about 4x14x3/16". It was bent down at the ends, just past the dash inserts, and also angled forward at the ends, to meet the brackets. The excess material was cut off so that it's finished width was about 1". A 1/4" minimum clearance was left between the rear edge and the upper edge of the dash, so that the outer dash could fit between. While all this figuring, cutting, and fitting was going on, I used two little shock cords to hold the lower dash up in it's normal position (it was allowed to drop to show the inserts). The holes that match the inserts were made large to allow clearance for any possible mis-alignment.
Once the front dash was put on, small brackets were made to go from the angle of the screws to more nearly level. Spacers of about 5/16" were put under them to clear the recess in the front dash panel, and 3/16" spacers were put on top to clear the center hump of the dash. Looking at them from the top, they are square with the bike, with the flat upper portion pointing to the rear.
Then, a flat piece of aluminum was scribed to fit the curve of the windshield in the down position. Trial and error, of course. Once the front curve was established, the V1 was positioned to determine how much excess there was at the rear. That curve was trimmed, and then the remaining ends were traced with a small paint can so that there were no sharp points that might impale me.
Later, I will take and post some finished pictures.
It was built of scraps of aluminum I had laying around, so cost=$0.
I did it while I had the front end torn apart to put in the HID lights, so it took me about 2 hours to design and fabricate it, not including fairing dis/mantling.
Apologies for the blurry pictures; the best camera is the one you have with you; my daughter had the good camera off doing something while I was doing this project.
First, I put threaded inserts in the holes where the top trim clips connect the two dash parts together.
The reason for these inserts is so that I can install the screw from the top without needing to hold something at the bottom (which can be buried).
Then, I made some short brackets from 1x1x1/16" aluminum angle. These mount to the top of the windshield adjustment track. The right side of the bike uses the two M6 bolts holding the upper limit switch; the left side uses the threaded holes that match those. The angle was bent open slightly so that the top matches the curve of the dash.
The upper bracket was made from some flat aluminum, about 4x14x3/16". It was bent down at the ends, just past the dash inserts, and also angled forward at the ends, to meet the brackets. The excess material was cut off so that it's finished width was about 1". A 1/4" minimum clearance was left between the rear edge and the upper edge of the dash, so that the outer dash could fit between. While all this figuring, cutting, and fitting was going on, I used two little shock cords to hold the lower dash up in it's normal position (it was allowed to drop to show the inserts). The holes that match the inserts were made large to allow clearance for any possible mis-alignment.
Once the front dash was put on, small brackets were made to go from the angle of the screws to more nearly level. Spacers of about 5/16" were put under them to clear the recess in the front dash panel, and 3/16" spacers were put on top to clear the center hump of the dash. Looking at them from the top, they are square with the bike, with the flat upper portion pointing to the rear.
Then, a flat piece of aluminum was scribed to fit the curve of the windshield in the down position. Trial and error, of course. Once the front curve was established, the V1 was positioned to determine how much excess there was at the rear. That curve was trimmed, and then the remaining ends were traced with a small paint can so that there were no sharp points that might impale me.
Later, I will take and post some finished pictures.
