Doing a timing belt and more. Add to my list?

[Dirt Road]

The bike is a 1997 with 179,500 on it right now. Bought it a couple years ago with 154k. The original owner kept meticulous records, so I know for a fact that the last one was done on time at 101k. That gives me another 10k before I really need to do it (this is my commuter and that will take me about 6 months).

This won't be the first timing belt I've done, as my first ST1100 came with an unchanged belt at 114k, and I changed it at about 120. I was shitting bricks the whole time as an inexperienced shade-tree just shy of his 21st birthday, but it went fine and I had no problems with that one for the next few thousand miles until swapping to this one (because heated grips).

This time my plan is to do the water pump as well while I'm in there, as the records indicate that it has not been done. My full list right now is:
-Change Timing Belt
-Change Water Pump
-Change Coolant (obviously)
-Check Valve Clearances (which will probably be fine from everything I've read)

Should I change the tensioners as well? Records indicate they have not been done. What else, if anything, needs doing?
Overall the bike runs like a top, and I'm incredibly proud to have such an old motor that still performs so reliably. I'm looking to take care of anything important, but anything non-essential I probably won't do because I need to be in and out fairly quickly so I can go back to using it as my commuter. Thanks all!

 

[dwalby]

as you probably know from the first belt change, they all pretty much look new when you replace it, so its not like you have to do it in the next 10k or else it will snap and destroy the engine.

Regarding changing everything else while you're already in there, that depends on how much you like taking the bike apart to get in there to do the job again when something else fails, and how much risk you want to take that the part will fail gradually and give you enough warning to replace it before it destroys the engine. Those kinds of failures are very rare in ST1100s, but these bikes are getting pretty old so failures are possible.

When I did mine, I had a squealing water pump bearing, so that was a must change, as was the TB (since it was due) so no question on those. While I was at it I changed out the tensioners/pulleys because I didn't want to have to do the whole job again if one of those started making noise later, or even worse, seized and locked up the TB and destroyed the engine. I don't know how much longer OEM parts are even going to be available, so that's another thing to consider, you may want to replace everything while its still available. So if the cost of the parts doesn't scare you away, I'd say change everything in there and then forget about it for another 100-120k miles.

 

[TerryS]

I'd certainly check the valve clearances but wouldn't replace the water pump unless it was leaking or the bearings were loose, likewise the tension and idle pulley would be OK unless the bearings were loose. If you are giving the bike a birthday, replace the fuel filter and re-balance the carbs while you are at it.

You might consider replacing the rubber washers under the cam cover hold-down bolts, they compress over time and from personal experience you might end up with a weep after taking the cam covers off.

 

[SMSW]

Since you will be pulling the radiator, you should look at the rubber hoses. If they have not been changed, they are 21 years old. Reread dwalby's comment about parts availability. Just as an aside, Honda recommends changing all fluids every two years.

 

[STraymond]

Yes, change the tensioners.

 

[Jim Van]

There is one tensioner pulley and one idle pulley. I'd replace them also.

You may consider rebuilding your water pump instead of replacing it to help pay for the pulley and tensioner.

I have posted a thread in the past explaining how to rebuild the water pump. The water pump seal is a hard to find item. I can supply one for $15 , including shipping.

And of course you can save some $$ by buying a Gates timing belt instead of an OEM belt.

 

[Dirt Road]

Roger that. Thanks for the replies everyone!

EDIT: Jim, I may take you up on that water pump seal, and I'll definitely be getting the Gates belt. Tempted just to pull the one I put on my first ST (which is now a parts bike) as I only put 6k miles on it, but I don't want to put it through the stress of multiple installations. I'll look up your thread on water pump rebuilds as well.

EDIT 2: I may pull the pump off my spare engine (a '95) check it, rebuild if necessary, and use that. That way I can just pop it in quicker (need to be relatively efficient as this is my daily driver). Everybody made fun of me for getting a second one of the same bike. Who's laughing now assholes? (they are, I have three now and only one runs)

 

[SMSW]

(they are, I have three now and only one runs)

You need to make friends with SupraSabre - I think you guys are competing - he has 4 and probably enough parts to put together a 5th.

 

[Dirt Road]

You need to make friends with SupraSabre - I think you guys are competing - he has 4 and probably enough parts to put together a 5th.

I was offered a fourth last week. My girlfriend would be...displeased. I would have taken it if it was a runner, but it was a mechanic's special.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

I didn’t catch what year your parts bike is, but the early ST1100s’ water pumps have the port for the oil cooler which your 97 doesn’t have. I haven’t heard of a 92-95 pump being fitted to later year models but guess it could be done by blocking the port somehow. As those pumps aren’t available other than salvage, you might sell it instead as fitting the later year models’ non-oil cooler pumps to one with the cooler requires removal of the cooler and changing some other parts, not to mention it’s a PITA.

John

 

[ESB]

My ST1100 Tensioners & Pulleys were still good at 250 K miles.
Changed the TB at 110K, & Water Pump at 135K --- Thats it.
Old belt looked very good when pulled out ! Your inspection & call ??

 

[Jim Van]

BTW, I found an engineering reliability test on car timing belts. They fail catastrophically - boom ! Break without warning @ about 125K miles. So even if it still looks good, it may fail anyway. A new Gates belt is cheap insurance. And you don't want to miss the fun installing it.

 

[Dirt Road]

I didn’t catch what year your parts bike is, but the early ST1100s’ water pumps have the port for the oil cooler which your 97 doesn’t have. I haven’t heard of a 92-95 pump being fitted to later year models but guess it could be done by blocking the port somehow. As those pumps aren’t available other than salvage, you might sell it instead as fitting the later year models’ non-oil cooler pumps to one with the cooler requires removal of the cooler and changing some other parts, not to mention it’s a PITA.

John

Not a bad idea. My spare is a '95. I'll have to look into it.

BTW, I found an engineering reliability test on car timing belts. They fail catastrophically - boom ! Break without warning @ about 125K miles. So even if it still looks good, it may fail anyway. A new Gates belt is cheap insurance. And you don't want to miss the fun installing it.

Definitely won't run it that long. It's at 80K right now, so I have the next year in which to find a good time to do the belt.

My ST1100 Tensioners & Pulleys were still good at 250 K miles.
Changed the TB at 110K, & Water Pump at 135K --- Thats it.
Old belt looked very good when pulled out ! Your inspection & call ??

How do you inspect and determine if tensioners are good or bad?

 

[Jim Van]

Remove the tensioner pulley and other pulley and spin them. If they feel smooth and quiet when spun, they are probably OK. If you hear a sound like " zzzzz " , it's probably time to replace them especially if you plan on having the bike for several more years. Mine didn't sound too bad, but I replaced them anyway. They weren't worn, but had a little "zzzzzing" when spun. Unfortunately, there is no effective way to clean out the old grease and re-grease.

 

[CYYJ]

One other thing you should, "for sure", take a look at when you have all the covers off is whether or not the "red wire bypass" has been carried out on the electrical system, near the battery.

The ST 1100s have a well-documented history of electrical wiring failures at this location. Unfortunately, when the failure finally does occur, there is no warning, it is a sudden failure: one moment the bike works, the next moment it is dead as a doorknob and there is no quick 'side of the road' fix.

See this post of mine, from when the problem happened to me this past summer: HELP! Stuck in Bastogne ST1100 Total Electrical Failure That post contains links to other articles that describe how to embody a small modification that will stop the problem from happening.

Michael

 

[Graham Watson]

My ST1100 Tensioners & Pulleys were still good at 250 K miles.
Changed the TB at 110K, & Water Pump at 135K --- Thats it.
Old belt looked very good when pulled out ! Your inspection & call ??

My 2000 ST1100 I bought new and has done 185,000 miles. I intend to replace the water pump.
I replaced the timing belt at 150,000 but the bike has started to leak coolant from the weep hole and quite badly so I’ve pulled it to pieces and removed the 7 bolts and the idler pulley and the tensioner as per the Honda Service manual but as the engine is in the frame, it’s very difficult to pull the water pump housing forward or to get anything behind the pump to dislodge it forward.
I have not removed any other parts other than the ones mentioned.
I note that you have experience with the water pump and maybe you could give me some advice on how to remove the water pump and its housing without having to resort to removing the engine from the frame.

Thanks,
Graham Watson

 

[Graham Watson]

The bike is a 1997 with 179,500 on it right now. Bought it a couple years ago with 154k. The original owner kept meticulous records, so I know for a fact that the last one was done on time at 101k. That gives me another 10k before I really need to do it (this is my commuter and that will take me about 6 months).

This won't be the first timing belt I've done, as my first ST1100 came with an unchanged belt at 114k, and I changed it at about 120. I was shitting bricks the whole time as an inexperienced shade-tree just shy of his 21st birthday, but it went fine and I had no problems with that one for the next few thousand miles until swapping to this one (because heated grips).

This time my plan is to do the water pump as well while I'm in there, as the records indicate that it has not been done. My full list right now is:
-Change Timing Belt
-Change Water Pump
-Change Coolant (obviously)
-Check Valve Clearances (which will probably be fine from everything I've read)

Should I change the tensioners as well? Records indicate they have not been done. What else, if anything, needs doing?
Overall the bike runs like a top, and I'm incredibly proud to have such an old motor that still performs so reliably. I'm looking to take care of anything important, but anything non-essential I probably won't do because I need to be in and out fairly quickly so I can go back to using it as my commuter. Thanks all!

Did you manage to change the water pump on your ST1100?
If so, I would appreciate it if you told me how you did it.
Please see my comment further down.

Thanks,
Graham Watson

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

advice on how to remove the water pump and its housing without having to resort to removing the engine from the frame.

Two choices: remove the frame cross-piece, or what I and others have done and recommend, remove the left driven pulley and reduction holder.

John

 

[dwalby]

Two choices: remove the frame cross-piece, or what I and others have done and recommend, remove the left driven pulley and reduction holder.

John

agree with John on the left driven pulley removal method, be sure to order a new gasket for that pulley before doing the job.

item 22 on this fiche, and you may also need item 24 depending on how it releases when you pull all the covers off.

Honda Motorcycle 1997 OEM Parts Diagram for Front Cover | Partzilla.com

Buy OEM Parts for Honda Motorcycle 1997 Front Cover Diagram

www.partzilla.com

 

[Jim Van]

Graham:
I had problems getting the water pump out until I took John's recommendation and removed the pulley & holder and then the pump literally just about fell out. That will do it for you, I bet.