Electrical FWIW

[Terminator2]

Good Day Everyone! After installing new alternator, coolant hoses, etc. I was performing some general inspection on my ST1300. I posted this because I see from time to time various posts regarding electrical issues, yet I've never see anyone address main harness rubbing locations. I caught this without incident. Could this be a major player in some of forum riders bikes? The connector belongs to sensor behind thermostat.

 

[dduelin]

The chafed section next to the top of the lower fuel tank sure looks suspect. The ground circuit problem on my bike was traced to the run from the 24 pin connector to the frame ground under the fuel tank. I eventually made a new ground connection to the frame directly from the 24 pin connector to the frame and bypassed that run that would have passed through that chafed area in your picture.

However the coolant temp sensor looks like the insulation is broken or possibly damaged by something chewing on it.

 

[Hound]

I agree that looks chomped rather than chafed. Good catch.

 

[Terminator2]

The chafed section next to the top of the lower fuel tank sure looks suspect. The ground circuit problem on my bike was traced to the run from the 24 pin connector to the frame ground under the fuel tank. I eventually made a new ground connection to the frame directly from the 24 pin connector to the frame and bypassed that run that would have passed through that chafed area in your picture.

However the coolant temp sensor looks like the insulation is broken or possibly damaged by something chewing on it.

I recall your post regarding damaged ground. Good write up. Tossed a piece of header wrap under that harness for now, lol. Dduelin, would you know a source for the temp sensor connector? I couldn't figure out how to remove wires from connector. Wires all intact, so I installed heat shrink over each one for now. Thanks.

 

[dduelin]

I recall your post regarding damaged ground. Good write up. Tossed a piece of header wrap under that harness for now, lol. Dduelin, would you know a source for the temp sensor connector? I couldn't figure out how to remove wires from connector. Wires all intact, so I installed heat shrink over each one for now. Thanks.

I'm sorry I don't have a source for the connector but it's probably a standard Denso or Hitachi part and someone smarter than I am will be along soon with a source or part number.

 

[DannoXYZ]

I recall your post regarding damaged ground. Good write up. Tossed a piece of header wrap under that harness for now, lol. Dduelin, would you know a source for the temp sensor connector? I couldn't figure out how to remove wires from connector. Wires all intact, so I installed heat shrink over each one for now. Thanks.

I think this connector should work. Amazon makes it easy to return if it doesn’t.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MFJQ9VN/ - connector kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MFHN35H/ - connector pigtail

BTW - Amazon can be difficult to link, might need to copy & paste URLs above

 

[SMSW]

I couldn't figure out how to remove wires from connector.

I assume you mean you could not figure out how to remove the terminal crimped to the wire from the plastic housing of the connector.

If you look closely at the blue picture (right side in this link) showing different types of terminals, you will see a tiny metal tab punched in the center of the back of some of them. This finger is pushed down as the metal terminal is pushed into the plastic housing and when it passes the ramp, it will spring back up, locking the terminal in the housing. The tools below this picture are used to push in behind the connector, depressing the finger and allowing it to slide out of the plastic housing. All of the metal terminals in the various plastic connector housings have these locking tabs, but they will vary on the location of them. For example, a round terminal may have two or three 'fingers' near the base. In this case you have to slip a tubular tool over the terminal to depress all of the fingers simultaneously.

 

[ST1100Y]

Search for "terminal extraction tool"

got a set like this Vehicle Wiring Products saved my butt a couple of times in the shop...

 

[DannoXYZ]

In this case with these Sumitomo HX or SL terminals, they have a depression instead of raised metal tab.

As you slide terminal into connector-housing, there’s parallel plastic finger that rubs on terminal in channel. At end of finger is a bump that falls into this depression and locks terminal in place.

To extract terminal from connector, you’ll need to pry finger & bump out of terminal‘s depression to unlock it. There’s access hole in face of connector just above metal part of terminal. You can see tip of plastic finger. Insert thin extraction tool or small precision screwdriver in between terminal and finger, then pry up. With other hand, pull wire & terminal out from back side of connector, done!

 

[DannoXYZ]

If you want to replace this connector and put new terminals on wires, you must have proper matching crimping system to at least match OEM specs. Not just some generic smashing crimper from auto-parts stores that just dents terminal. It needs to do dual W-crimps to squeeze OD of terminal inwards to remove air from between wire-strands to maximise contact surface area to minimise resistance for best conductivity. Also needs 2nd crimp onto insulation for strain relief.

I prefer TE/AMP Ergocrimp line of crimpers with removable crimping dies. Then when you buy terminals, vendors can provide matching die for those terminals for optimum crimping to OEM standards. A “good crimp” is not ”just any crimp”.

Most common wiring failures are from using generic connectors with generic crimpers. Large change in diameter with no strain-relief results in stress-risers that break wires in little time. You will never see this kind of failure with OEM wiring.

If you don’t have matching crimping system for these Sumitomo HX/SL terminals, best to get pigtail instead. Use proper linesman/western-union knot for mechanical strength, with solder for conductivity and adhesive heat-shrink tubing for long-term corrosion resistance. It’s done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. Don’t pre-tin larger stranded wires, too difficult to knot.

Voyagers 1 & 2 are still going after 47-years using wiring standards from this manual.

nasaSTD8739.4a_chg4.pdf

drive.google.com

I used that manual to develop my battery cable and lighting harness upgrades for Porsches decades ago with 50-yr warranty. It’s been 30-yrs now and not single set has failed. They often appear on eBay going for double what I originally charged!

 

[Terminator2]

If you want to replace this connector and put new terminals on wires, you must have proper matching crimping system to at least match OEM specs. Not just some generic smashing crimper from auto-parts stores that just dents terminal. It needs to do dual W-crimps to squeeze OD of terminal inwards to remove air from between wire-strands to maximise contact surface area to minimise resistance for best conductivity. Also needs 2nd crimp onto insulation for strain relief.

I prefer TE/AMP Ergocrimp line of crimpers with removable crimping dies. Then when you buy terminals, vendors can provide matching die for those terminals for optimum crimping to OEM standards. A “good crimp” is not ”just any crimp”.

Most common wiring failures are from using generic connectors with generic crimpers. Large change in diameter with no strain-relief results in stress-risers that break wires in little time. You will never see this kind of failure with OEM wiring.

If you don’t have matching crimping system for these Sumitomo HX/SL terminals, best to get pigtail instead. Use proper linesman/western-union knot for mechanical strength, with solder for conductivity and adhesive heat-shrink tubing for long-term corrosion resistance. It’s done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability.

Voyagers 1 & 2 are still going after 47-years using wiring standards from this manual.

nasaSTD8739.4a_chg4.pdf

drive.google.com

I used that manual to develop my battery cable and lighting harness upgrades for Porsches decades ago with 50-yr warranty. It’s been 30-yrs now and not single set has failed. They often appear on eBay going for double what I originally charged!

I don't know how to reply to your response Danno eliminating all your replies. However, thank you for the education. I agree with you, I will opt for connector with pigtail (amazon per you).

Duelin and Hound didn't know that I personally removed damaged wire wrap tape from the harness next to fuel pump housing to inspect any possible damage.

For now, at least I'm Ridin again. Thanks guys.

 

[DannoXYZ]

I don't know how to reply to your response Danno eliminating all your replies. However, thank you for the education. I agree with you, I will opt for connector with pigtail (amazon per you).

Duelin and Hound didn't know that I personally removed damaged wire wrap tape from the harness next to fuel pump housing to inspect any possible damage.

For now, at least I'm Ridin again. Thanks guys.

You’re welcome! Sorry if I spewed and overloaded info. Just wanted you to get all needed info for good permanent repair. I always do it to highest standards possible so I’ll never have to do it again!

 

[ST1100Y]

Sorry if I spewed and overloaded info.

Nope, in fact it's the info on this topic and should be pinned on top of the electrical forum...
I too despise those generic smash crimp thingies... OEM spec, dual W-crimp, ratchet type crimpers (won't release until full pressure was given), never failed me...

 

[Andrew Shadow]

If you want to replace this connector and put new terminals on wires, you must have proper matching crimping system to at least match OEM specs. Not just some generic smashing crimper from auto-parts stores that just dents terminal. It needs to do dual W-crimps to squeeze OD of terminal inwards to remove air from between wire-strands to maximise contact surface area to minimise resistance for best conductivity. Also needs 2nd crimp onto insulation for strain relief.

Definitely, no doubt about it. I have a ratchet style that I paid around $40.00 CAD. It came with multiple dies for all of the most commonly used terminals/connectors, and it works very well. I would strongly recommend that everyone should get one and get rid of those generic pliers type. Even when using the crush type of connectors that are sold in auto parts stores the ratchet type of crimpers do a far better job crimping those than the cheap pliers type do.

Just to pile on to the information overload of Danny, the NASA standard of crimp is on a whole other level than what any of us here would ever be willing to spend on crimping tools. I worked in the aviation industry for a long time where everything is controlled, including what tools you are allowed to use and how they are used. To get a crimp that meets that level of standard you need crimpers that cost hundreds of dollars, some of them thousands. Many of them are wire size specific, meaning that they can only crimp one gauge wire size and one size/type of terminal. They are serialized and tracked. They must have a valid calibration certificate to be used and they must be re-calibrated regularly, some as often as every six months. Crimpers in this category are so precise and so effective that they actually bond the wire to the terminal so that they almost become one similar to the result achieved if they had been soldered or welded together. After the crimp is completed they are subjected to a pull test where a specific force applied to the terminal using a calibrated pull-force gauge to verify that the crimp meets specifications.

It is always nice to have the ability to achieve the best result possible, but I doubt that there are many of us who are willing to spend this kind of money on this level of quality crimping tools, not to mention that the terminals themselves are of far superior quality, and priced to match, to what we buy at our local auto parts or electronics store.

Where I worked there was an actual harness shop where they did nothing but fabricate wiring harnesses made-to-measure and to specification. Not only was there all of the best quality crimpers, best quality wiring, best quality terminals, there was also the trained, skilled, and experienced people there using them. It was amazing for any DIY gear-head. I could walk in there and ask them to make me a wiring harness. All I had to do was give them a sketch of what I wanted and I would have a top quality made-to-measure wiring harness that met the specifications of Boeing, Airbus, or NASA.

F.Y.I. lest anyone figures that they are going to buy an aviation quality crimper beware, and do your homework before you spend the money. Many of the wire types that are used in aviation are not the same as the wires used in automotive and that we generally purchase. The insulation is of completely different material to allow the overall wire diameter to be smaller, and therefore lighter, while meeting higher demand standards than standard wiring. The crimpers that are specified for this type of wire are designed to match that wire type. Even though 16 AWG wire all have the same diameter conductor, all 16 AWG wire is not created equal. e.g. Some types of aviation wire crimpers of 16 AWG will not properly crimp a standard automotive wire of 16 AWG because the insulation may be a different diameter. To get the quality crimp that you desire you may also need to purchase aviation rated wire as well or you may end up with an overcrimp using the aviation crimpers on standard automotive wire. It might get expensive, and this high a standard is not required for our purposes. Just get yourself a good quality ratchet crimper set that has multiple changeable dies.

 

[Igofar]

Good Day Everyone! After installing new alternator, coolant hoses, etc. I was performing some general inspection on my ST1300. I posted this because I see from time to time various posts regarding electrical issues, yet I've never see anyone address main harness rubbing locations. I caught this without incident. Could this be a major player in some of forum riders bikes? The connector belongs to sensor behind thermostat.

What your looking at there is caused by HEAT damage!
I've found that many times on these bikes.
Some folks will refuse to replace the alternator, or go that deep, unless the lower sub wire harness is replaced, because they always are found crispy due to heat damage.
Another thing that causes that damage to that one switch, is when folks start moving the t-stat housing around to tighten up any loose hoses, they push it backwards, and upwards, and it bends these wires at a really sharp angle, and as you can see, the sheathing crumbles and falls away. Then they touch each other, and you have a short.