Essential socket sizes for impact wrench

STRider

STRider

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Age
64
Location
Oregon
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2012 ST1300A
STOC #
50
I went and bought a cordless 1/2" drive impact wrench.

I have a fairly complete set of standard and deep impact sockets in 3/8" drive, but would like to know what the essential sizes are for the 1300 and 1100 to perform serious service tasks, like clutch basket removal, etc...

I want to be sure any set I invest in includes those sizes.

Thanks!
 
For what you need find a Harbor Freight and get an impact metric set. You would spend more on a few individual sockets than a set. At work I mostly use deep sockets. There is not much use for standard sizes any more but some sizes are close to metric ones.
 
@Al st1100 is right. As often as I use impact tools, HF has been fine for me. A complete set of HF sockets will set you back about the same $$ one or two Snap-on sockets would. Fill in any larger individual sockets as you need them from a lowes or hopot.

That said, I'm not sure you need an impact tool for the ST. I've got 3 air impact tools, impact ratchets and I've never used any of them on my motorcycles. I have used a milwaukee cordless impact screw gun (it takes hex bits and I use a hex to 1/4 or hex to 3/8 sq drive adapter) - mostly for spinning off fasteners once they are loosened by hand. I also snug up the bolts by hand. No special impact sockets, just my regular ones.

I have read that the fork tube nuts and bottom fork allen screw are best loosened with an impact tool, but I did not need them for my bike.
 
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14 mm (stopper bolt), 22mm (front axle), 27mm (rear axle), 30mm steering stem nut and oil cooler nut, 17mm Allen Fork caps, 6mm Allen long Bottom of forks.
#2 JIS driver, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17 mm 5mm Allen, 8mm Allen, 19mm Allen.
This should do ANYTHING you will ever have to do on an ST1300 ;)
:WCP1:
 
Igofar said:
14 mm (stopper bolt), 22mm (front axle), 27mm (rear axle), 30mm steering stem nut and oil cooler nut, 17mm Allen Fork caps, 6mm Allen long Bottom of forks.
#2 JIS driver, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17 mm 5mm Allen, 8mm Allen, 19mm Allen.
This should do ANYTHING you will ever have to do on an ST1300 ;)
:WCP1:
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Assuming no one has replaced things with something non-standard (not that that ever happens....)
 
I have the HF set (very good value, especially on sale or with a coupon) and a 1/2 impact set. I use them for changing wheels on my 4 footed vehicles, never used or needed on my bike. I do have a large 1/2 breaker bar and I use this for loosening axle nuts.
 
Igofar said:
14 mm (stopper bolt), 22mm (front axle), 27mm (rear axle), 30mm steering stem nut and oil cooler nut, 17mm Allen Fork caps, 6mm Allen long Bottom of forks.
#2 JIS driver, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17 mm 5mm Allen, 8mm Allen, 19mm Allen.
This should do ANYTHING you will ever have to do on an ST1300 ;)
:WCP1:
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Thank you. Is the list the same for the 1100s?
 
Larry Fine said:
Thank you. Is the list the same for the 1100s?
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24mm front axle (with the exception of 1991 if I'm not mistaken)
I think the steering stem is 27mm instead of 30mm, but its been a long time since I've removed it so I don't remember for sure.
 
My only issue with HF stuff is the socket walls tend to be very thick. I'm guessing to get the required strength from cheaper steel? I have at least two sets, and there have been a couple times that I couldn't sneak the socket past adjacent parts. That said, they are great for the price. I've also been able to score good deals on used name brand stuff from Craigslist and FB marketplace. Gotta keep your eyes open though.

RT
 
rwthomas1 said:
My only issue with HF stuff is the socket walls tend to be very thick. I'm guessing to get the required strength from cheaper steel? I have at least two sets, and there have been a couple times that I couldn't sneak the socket past adjacent parts. That said, they are great for the price. I've also been able to score good deals on used name brand stuff from Craigslist and FB marketplace. Gotta keep your eyes open though.

RT
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Impact sockets differ from regular sockets in that they are of lower hardness (less brittle) so the on/off/on torque cycles (vibration) of the impact gun doesn't break them. Inherently, lower hardness generally results in lower yield and tensile strength, thus the thicker walls.

I've never used, and don't really see the need for an impact wrench on a motorcycle. The only large bolts are the axle, and I can handle those quite easily with a large wrench. Maybe head bolts might need an impact to loosen them, or perhaps a crank bolt or pulley bolt. Mechanics may use them for speed, but IMO, they're not really needed for most work on a motorcycle, especially the maintenance work we generally do. Of course, ymmv.
 
paulcb said:
Impact sockets differ from regular sockets in that they are of lower hardness (less brittle) so the on/off/on torque cycles (vibration) of the impact gun doesn't break them. Inherently, lower hardness generally results in lower yield and tensile strength, thus the thicker walls.

I've never used, and don't really see the need for an impact wrench on a motorcycle. The only large bolts are the axle, and I can handle those quite easily with a large wrench. Maybe head bolts might need an impact to loosen them, or perhaps a crank bolt or pulley bolt. Mechanics may use them for speed, but IMO, they're not really needed for most work on a motorcycle, especially the maintenance work we generally do. Of course, ymmv.
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Whatever the metallurgy, I can tell you that SnapOn impacts have thinner walls than HF. SnapOn is very definitely a much higher quality product. But you'll need a 2nd mortgage to buy them.

I have 3/8 and 1/2 cordless impact guns now. While certainly not required, they really do increase the speed of the work. Additionally, my hands cannot take the abuse anymore. The guns keep my hands from getting sore. I still final tighten everything by hand, but not having to hand-turn every fastener makes a difference at the end of the day.

RT
 
There are occasions where the fastener may otherwise spin by hand, where a quick burst with an impact wrench will break it loose. The bolts on the bottom of the fork legs come to mind, but on my ST they have always broken loose by hand IIRC. Another use is if you remove the forks from the triple clamp and forget to break the fork caps loose first.

I doubt there's anything on a m/c that requires torque levels that can't be done by hand, so the only real benefit of an impact wrench would be in removing fasteners more quickly than by hand.
 
rwthomas1 said:
SnapOn is very definitely a much higher quality product. But you'll need a 2nd mortgage to buy them.
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Probably have to mortgage your kids, too. I wanted to replace a single socket from a Snap-on set that I have. I priced it at $20 for the one (either 1/4 or 3/8" drive)socket. Sometime in the last 20 years, I priced a 1/4" drive set from Snap-On. IIRC, that was around $100. Their prices are stratospheric. If you were to price their tool cabinets, I'd suggest having a few docs and a crash cart nearby....
 
SMSW said:
Probably have to mortgage your kids, too. I wanted to replace a single socket from a Snap-on set that I have. I priced it at $20 for the one (either 1/4 or 3/8" drive)socket. Sometime in the last 20 years, I priced a 1/4" drive set from Snap-On. IIRC, that was around $100. Their prices are stratospheric. If you were to price their tool cabinets, I'd suggest having a few docs and a crash cart nearby....
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Buy 'em used. Lifetime warranty, no questions asked. I broke an old, really old 1/2" SnapOn breaker bar. I put a 5ft pipe on it and laid into it. Flagged down a SnapOn truck, dude swapped it on the spot.

A good friend is a pro mech and has the full complement of digital torque wrenches. I thought they were overrated, until I used one. Simply spectacular. If you turn wrenches for a living, they are worth it.

RT
 
X I was a fork lift truck mechanic for 40 years, 3/8 drive snap-on sockets never broke, & the feel of them & the ratchet-- oh-la-la! .Off topic I know, I use many lower quality tools,but as in another post quality tools for electicalcrimpimping etc. Saves a lot of "re-does" when's pace is tight, or you have to HACK into further fubars. rant over.
 
Jethro said:
X I was a fork lift truck mechanic for 40 years, 3/8 drive snap-on sockets never broke, & the feel of them & the ratchet-- oh-la-la! .Off topic I know, I use many lower quality tools,but as in another post quality tools for electicalcrimpimping etc. Saves a lot of "re-does" when's pace is tight, or you have to HACK into further fubars. rant over.
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I dunno I think it's still on topic. If people are going to buy tools, they should know there really is a difference. For tools that you will use frequently like a combination wrench set or 3/8 drive socket set, those are the ones you want to be the best. Spend the money. You will own them for your lifetime. Go get a SnapOn, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, etc. pro-grade 13mm combination wrench and compare that to a HF, or even Husky or Kobalt. It's night and day. The expensive one is thinner, lighter, smoother, stronger. It just feels better. Do the same with a ratchet. The pro tool feels like a Swiss instrument, the cheap one gritty, sloppy and crude. Consider how much money you are saving doing it yourself and enjoy quality tools that you grandkids will enjoy. I have cheap stuff too, but I covet my quality pieces.

RT
 
50+ years bending wrenches 1200 psi steam, hydraulics, 10,000 psi+ pneumatics, cryogenics (oops those were all brass), and refrigerated trailers. Always preferred craftsman over snap on! snap on were too thin and often painful by the end of the day, craftsman were thicker and more comfortable to my grip. Both were quality tools! However I could get a replacement craftsman on a Sunday night at 2130 (9:30 pm). Been retired for a while now so I am not to sure about craftsman availability any more.
 
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