Exhaust Cement/Sealant

[St1300biker]

I've had a bad day and fear that it may get worse!

Firstly, in 30 years of servicing my own bikes I have never come across a sump nut and oil filter so tight. I've got all the tools but space is a problem for the filter. Managed eventually to undo the sump nut but can't for the life of me undo the filter. I've researched the topic at length and barring the hammer/chisel method I've tried most. Guess the last person must have tightened the filter to the ridiculously high torque of 26Nm recommended in the Service Manual. Will leave till next oil change and get the dealer to sort.

Anyway, that is not the purpose of my post - just getting things off my chest.

As we can't ride at present in UK unless for a good valid reason, I decided to have a rear tyre change, lube the spines etc.

Sizing things up, I noticed that there appears to be white exhaust cement where exhaust meets the muffler - both sides.

Although I have ordered new gaskets, I have never come across this cement before and so need to ask:-

a) will I be able to remove the mufflers, and

b) how to remove the cement which has set hard?

Thanks for your help.

Paul

 

[Obo]

Assuming it's regular exhaust type cement like we have here you should be able to remove the mufflers and chip any remaining out. And bits after that should file / Dremel out quite easily. It's basically a ceramic paste.

As for the filter, do you have one with the hex nut on the end for a wrench or just a normal type one? Have you tied a DIY chain wrap if you can get it in there?

 

[Bikeric]

A stainless steel pan scourer should get the old cement off CAREFULLY. Hope your day improves!

 

[St1300biker]

Assuming it's regular exhaust type cement like we have here you should be able to remove the mufflers and chip any remaining out. And bits after that should file / Dremel out quite easily. It's basically a ceramic paste.

As for the filter, do you have one with the hex nut on the end for a wrench or just a normal type one? Have you tied a DIY chain wrap if you can get it in there?

Cement - thanks for your thoughts

Filter - I have ordinary one. I can't get chain in place. Tried strap wrench and filter wrench, but without success. Part of the problem for me is trying to undo the filter lying on the floor.

Paul

 

[St1300biker]

A stainless steel pan scourer should get the old cement off CAREFULLY. Hope your day improves!

Thanks Eric

 

[Bush]

Drive a screwdriver into the filter and turn it off.

 

[Obo]

Drive a screwdriver into the filter and turn it off.

I didn't suggest that as an option because if it still won't come off he'll have to take it somewhere it will need to be towed, At least it's driveable now.

 

[ReSTored]

.......... Tried strap wrench and filter wrench, but without success.................

Don't know what type of filter wrench you tried, but this is one I've had for 15+ years and it works well, good leverage if you need it.

 

[SMSW]

Who posted his same problems removing an oil filter this week? He used a pair of pliers with what looked like teeth on the very large curved jaws. Ahhh, oil filter pliers. In a worst case scenario, I'd put down a tarp on the ground and lay the bike over so I did not have to work on my back on the ground. Once the filter is loose, get the bike upright* and proceed as is normally done.

*I once used a come-along attached to my Bygdawg bar and trailer hitch on our car to get the bike upright. It had fallen near our other car and I did not have room to do the traditional - butt on the seat, grab the handle bars and passenger bar and lift w/ your legs.

 

[St1300biker]

Don't know what type of filter wrench you tried, but this is one I've had for 15+ years and it works well, good leverage if you need it.

I have Hiflo Filter and the filter wrench matches the number of flats, but has slipped. Haven't tried yours, but fear it may slip.

 

[Roger]

Like Bush said - small screwdriver to make the first holes and a big one to lever it loose. David Silver sold me a filter and a cap (tool) to fit over the end with a nut on to take a 17mm spanner. I used it today. As for the exhaust joint - give it a spray of wd40 or similar to loosen the joint.

 

[St1300biker]

May not be room, but anyone tried one of these:-

Heavy Duty Oil Filter Locking Plier (53-118mm) Multi-purpose Mole Vise Grips | eBay

Engine Timing Locking Kits. 11pc Twist Sockets Locking Wheel Nut Remover Non Slip Broken Studs Rounded Bolts. Type Oil Filter Tool. Manufacturer Part Number CT4258. Brake Service Tools. Brake repair and service.

www.ebay.co.uk

I've also tried my 3 leg filter removal tool, but insufficient room. This has column type legs, although there is another type which has thinner legs - I don't have that

Paul

 

[St1300biker]

Like Bush said - small screwdriver to make the first holes and a big one to lever it loose. David Silver sold me a filter and a cap (tool) to fit over the end with a nut on to take a 17mm spanner. I used it today. As for the exhaust joint - give it a spray of wd40 or similar to loosen the joint.

Even the K&N Filter with a nut on, some people have reported it tearing off trying to undo the filter.

Trouble is I drained my oil before realising I couldn't get filter off.

 

[T_C]

Trouble is I drained my oil before realising I couldn't get filter off.

Put oil in and ride it to the dealer.

Or... get serious and take the filter off one way or the other.

 

[CYYJ]

@St1300biker - Hi Paul:

This article that I wrote about a year ago detailing my experience replacing exhaust system gaskets on my ST1300 may be of some use to you:

ST 1300 - Replacing Exhaust Gaskets

I didn't find much residue on the female part (the forward part) of the connection where the gasket goes, but I did find a tremendous amount of crap on the forward end of the muffler. Fortunately, that forward end of the muffler is solid steel, so it is possible to remove crap from it with a wire wheel brush on a drill, or with coarse sandpaper.

While you have the mufflers off, if you get a foam polishing pad for the end of a drill and some light-duty automotive paint polish, it will be possible for you to remove the typical brown discolouration from the forward end of the muffler (where the catalytic converter is). Just a gentle buff will restore the entire muffler assembly to a sparkling chrome appearance.

I found that the clamps on my bike that go around the junction of the muffler to the forward exhaust system were in very poor condition. I spent a lot of time restoring those clamps, but if I had to do it all over again, I would have just bought new clamps. Be aware that the torque value for the nuts on those clamps is very, very low. You don't want to exceed the torque limit because if you do, you will simply crush the new gasket, and that is not at all a good thing. So if the threads and nuts on your clamps are corroded - which they most probably are, given that you are in the UK (a saline environment), it would probably be best for you to buy new clamps if only to ensure that you can set clamp torque correctly.

Michael

 

[Superdirk]

There are specific wrenches for the oil filter. they are not so expensive :

Tusk Oil Filter Socket 65mm - Fits: Honda ST1300 (Standard) 2003-2010 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tusk Oil Filter Socket 65mm - Fits: Honda ST1300 (Standard) 2003-2010 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

they don't fit great, but should get the job done.

 

[Al st1100]

grab it with a large pair of channel lock pliers... if your not collapsing the filter your not putting enough effort in. I worked at a dealership and see this many times on autos also.

 

[Gus1300]

Lots of suggestions...patience is the key! Sometimes I find that applying pressure and sustaining it will break loose the filter seal easier than actually trying to turn the filter immediately. Channel locks, cap-style filter wrench, strap/chain type wrench will all work, but it's difficult to get just the right amount of leverage. I usually have to put the 3/8" drive handle between the center stand bars to have enough freedom of movement to start the filter turning. Once it's started it normally can be continued by hand/spins freely.

Let us know how you finally conquered the beast!

 

[SupraSabre]

And I'm criticized for using K&N 204 oil filters!

With three of the ST1300s I've owned, I had the special moment of removing the original oil filter from the factory. And yes, I think they use epoxy on them there!

What I found and have used all three times was a large straight blade screwdriver and a mallet. It took about 30 minutes of placing the screw driver to the "rim" of the filter (From the side, not underneath!), but it did the trick each time!

Good luck!

 

[St1300biker]

This article that I wrote about a year ago detailing my experience replacing exhaust system gaskets on my ST1300 may be of some use to you:

Yes very good article Michael.

Haven't removed the rear wheel yet as nowhere open locally to supply a new tyre due to virus.

Paul

PS Re removing my oil filter, perhaps I didn't persevere enough. Worried about damaging filter shaft, and/or old filter. As for using screwdriver & hammer method, it would just be my (bad) luck to really have a bad day. Don't know the length of the filter shaft. So I've filled up with new oil and decided to ride.