Factory Fork Valves vs Race Tech Gold Valves

Byron

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Yesterday I performed my annual fork fluid change and upgraded the valving at the same time to the Race Tech Gold Valves. During the change over I noted a couple of small changes from the Race Tech instructions.

In step 2 "Remove the compression valve." is doesn't mention about removing the aluminum piece off the end of the cartridge, see first attachment. It's a snug fit and I used a slide hammer with expanding fingers to grab the inside lip. It came off with just a light tap. It would not come off by just pulling on it though. Once it was off access to the clip was easy.

In step 3:

"Remove the rebound rod from the cartridge. Being very careful not to damage the rod, hold the rod using the TFSH 01 Shaft Holding Tool. The bottom-out piston is held onto the rod with peening over a circlip on the rod (the circlip is not visible until the piston is removed). You must spread the peening over the circlip. Simply tap down on the piston using a hammer and a 12" (300 mm) length of 1/2 electrical conduit (or some other piece of pipe) as a driver (or you can use a small chisel). This will spread the peening. Save the circlip and piston, they will be reused. Slide the rod out of the cartridge tube."

The strange thing was once the compression valve was removed from cartridge the rod and rebound valve simply slide out without the need for any tools what so ever.


During the assembly of the rebound valve it showed only one check plate, item 3 in the drawing. The shim pack came with 2 per valve so I used both. They are very thin so I wasn't worried about the stack being too thick. Also, when I disassembled the factory rebound valve the nut simply unscrewed and pressed back the end of the shaft that was peened over. When I reassembled the stack I just reused the original nut and since I did do any clean up of the threads it was a good snug fit and I didn't use the Locktite as was instructed. The 30 in-lbs with the snug nut fit seemed tight enough to not worry about it falling off.


A test run up through Azusa Canyon and over to Mt. Baldy and back home on the freeway was very pleasant but I think I'll go out today and test it some more. :D
 

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Byron

Byron

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Well I did it right this time. :(

While putting away the last of my tools Sunday evening I found a back-up ring, item 8 in a fork diagram "51412-KZ3-003 RING, BACK-UP." At first I wasn't concerned because I was using one to protect the seal as I drove it in. Then I found a second one. :eek:

Apparently in my haste to put the second fork together, right hand side, I pulled the ring to make sure the guide bushing, item 9 "51414-MCH-003 BUSH, GUIDE" was fully seated and instead of putting it back in place grabbed the seal and slid it on top to drive home.

Yes I put the rest of the fork together and back onto the bike. I've even had it on the road for a couple hundred test miles/smiles. But after finding and realizing my mistake I couldn't get a good nights sleep.

Part of me is saying I could probably ride the bike for a year without any harm or problems but because I know it's not in there it's driving me crazy. I rode the KLR to work today and won't ride it till I make it right. Before I take the fork apart through I need to verify that I have another seal on hand just in case I damage the one in the fork when taking things apart. The back-up ring goes between the bushing and seal and is what normally drives the seal out during disassembly. Without the ring in there I fear that the bushing will tear through the soft area of the seal between the outer ring and inner seal when I slide hammer the tubes apart. :(

Has anyone been in this situation before and if so did your seal come out in one reusable piece or did it need to be replaced? I have enough fork oil so no problem when I put it back together, I just hate to do things twice especially when i messed up in the first place.
 

georgiast

Failure is NOT an option...
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You MIGHT get by re-using the seal, but you WON'T be able to sleep well...

I would replace it.
 
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Funny you mention this, I made the same mistake on the first fork. Right after driving the seal in place and putting the snap ring in, I looked down and saw the two back up rings just laying there. After a few words to myself, :cus: I took things apart and this time put it back together with the back up ring - same seal. It hasn't leaked after several hundred miles, I bet you'd be fine. That sucks you forgot them after putting everything back together. If it's purpose is really only to help bang the seal out, i'd leave it out and put it back in next time you change seals.
Btw my gold valve kit also came with two rebound valve check plates - i wonder why they send two? anyway i assumed a packing mistake and just used one.
 
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Byron

Byron

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Funny you mention this, I made the same mistake on the first fork. Right after driving the seal in place and putting the snap ring in, I looked down and saw the two back up rings just laying there. After a few words to myself, :cus: I took things apart and this time put it back together with the back up ring - same seal. It hasn't leaked after several hundred miles, I bet you'd be fine. That sucks you forgot them after putting everything back together. If it's purpose is really only to help bang the seal out, i'd leave it out and put it back in next time you change seals.
Btw my gold valve kit also came with two rebound valve check plates - i wonder why they send two? anyway i assumed a packing mistake and just used one.
Well if you got away with getting the seal out in one piece I guess I'll give it a try. :) I'm still going to try and find one at a local shop just in case.
 
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I did this mod over the winter. Rode my bike today to work and all I can say is WOW! Why didn't I do this sooner!?

Suspension is WAY more compliant over bumps and ruts. Don't get that bone-jarring feeling when hitting one of NY's many, many potholes. Yet the suspension and bike feels controlled, wheels always feel planted. I'm just loving this!
 
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Byron

Byron

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Well I found a seal at Bert's Mega Mall so the fix is on for tonight after work. I hope I don't need it but it's always better to have one on hand and not need it than need one and not have it. :)
 
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Byron

Byron

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So, I picked up the seal on the way home and after changing cloths jumped into the tear down. With all the recent practice it didn't take long to discover that it wasn't the second or right side fork that I left the backing ring out of but turned out to be the first or left side. I thought I was being so careful when I did it the first time that I somehow duplicated the effort after taking it apart. :eek:

I think my problem stems from using a backing ring under my home made seal driver to aide in preventing damage to the seal when installed. Because I made it a habit to remove the backing ring after driving the seal I somehow automatically removed it after seating the fork bushing instead of leaving it and then installing the seal on top. It might have been because I would lift the backing ring to ensure that I had the fork bushing fully seated, who knows. :confused:

Anyway, the bike is all back together and handling just great. I now have a set of seals on hand for any later service that may come up.

On a side note, I was looking at the wear on my Avon Storm 2 Ultra's and noticed that I'm really closed to the side wear bars. Overall the tires are wearing evenly other than the leaned over contact patch. Looks like I have to order another set to have ready as these may not make it through June.
 

wjbertrand

Ventura Highway
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Messages
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Yesterday I performed my annual fork fluid change and upgraded the valving at the same time to the Race Tech Gold Valves. During the change over I noted a couple of small changes from the Race Tech instructions.

In step 2 "Remove the compression valve." is doesn't mention about removing the aluminum piece off the end of the cartridge, see first attachment. It's a snug fit and I used a slide hammer with expanding fingers to grab the inside lip. It came off with just a light tap. It would not come off by just pulling on it though. Once it was off access to the clip was easy.

In step 3:

"Remove the rebound rod from the cartridge. Being very careful not to damage the rod, hold the rod using the TFSH 01 Shaft Holding Tool. The bottom-out piston is held onto the rod with peening over a circlip on the rod (the circlip is not visible until the piston is removed). You must spread the peening over the circlip. Simply tap down on the piston using a hammer and a 12" (300 mm) length of 1/2 electrical conduit (or some other piece of pipe) as a driver (or you can use a small chisel). This will spread the peening. Save the circlip and piston, they will be reused. Slide the rod out of the cartridge tube."

The strange thing was once the compression valve was removed from cartridge the rod and rebound valve simply slide out without the need for any tools what so ever.


During the assembly of the rebound valve it showed only one check plate, item 3 in the drawing. The shim pack came with 2 per valve so I used both. They are very thin so I wasn't worried about the stack being too thick. Also, when I disassembled the factory rebound valve the nut simply unscrewed and pressed back the end of the shaft that was peened over. When I reassembled the stack I just reused the original nut and since I did do any clean up of the threads it was a good snug fit and I didn't use the Locktite as was instructed. The 30 in-lbs with the snug nut fit seemed tight enough to not worry about it falling off.


A test run up through Azusa Canyon and over to Mt. Baldy and back home on the freeway was very pleasant but I think I'll go out today and test it some more. :D
Late getting in on this, but I installed that brass bit reverse to the way you did it, trying to better replicate the base plate + nylock nut described in the instructions and to be more similar to the OEM configuration. Wonder which is correct?
 
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Byron

Byron

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Late getting in on this, but I installed that brass bit reverse to the way you did it, trying to better replicate the base plate + nylock nut described in the instructions and to be more similar to the OEM configuration. Wonder which is correct?
It it was installed reversed or backward than I would thing the fluid flow would be reversed compared to the way it should be.
 

wjbertrand

Ventura Highway
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I was referring to the last piece, not the main valve body. Of course that has to be correctly installed.
 
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