Fi light problems

[Basher]

Hi folks first post so go easy on me.
Have a 2004 trike with the fi light on. I did read something about the side stand to get the code but i don't have one so question is can i jump a wire somewhere to get the code.
Trike was very rough when I got it but coming together nicely now so will post some pics when I can.
Cheers Steve

 

[Jrsaw27]

I have a 2010, All I need to do is put the bike in Neutral, Side stand down, Start normally ans the F1 will blink the code out. usually a couple shorts blinks (10s column) and some long blinks (1s column). Yesterday it was very humid and foggy, rare for my area. I got 2 fast blinks repeating and my gas milage and air/ gas mix was way off. I could smell it.
I started from cold, in Neutral, side stand down, started without any throttle. waited about 15 min until the fan came on. Turned it off. Then back on, F1 was gone and everything reset. My code was 2 fast blinks or issue with MAP sensor. Best of luck, This worked for me.

 

[diferg]

Welcome from SE Georgia U.S.A.. HI Basher, I cant answer your problem, but there are some here that will be able to. This is a great site for information. Sweet Looking Trike is that Malton UK or Canada?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

All I need to do is put the bike in Neutral, Side stand down, Start normally ans the F1 will blink the code out.

He doesn't have a side-stand.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

...... can i jump a wire somewhere to get the code.

Click here for the procedure and what each code means.

 

[Basher]

Malton UK or as it's better known God's country.

 

[Basher]

So finally got round to shorting the wires and I get 9 short blinks followed by 2 long then 4 short which is the iat and left oxygen sensors.
Any ideas where to start please.
Cheers Steve

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Start with the IAT fault for two reasons.
1- While I do not know if this is the case with the ST1300 fuel injection system, on most of the fuel injection systems that I have experience with the codes are numbered in the order in which they should be diagnosed and repaired, starting with the lowest number first.
Repairing the cause of the lowest fault code first often has the effect of resolving some or all of the remaining codes.

2- If the ECM is receiving faulty data from, or incorrectly interpreting the IAT data, the ECM wil modify the air fuel mixture to compensate. This could cause an oxygen sensor to operate out of the expected range, or be damaged. In either case the ECM would see it as an oxygen sensor fault.

I suggest that you fix the IAT fault first, clear the codes and see what results.

 

[Basher]

That seems to make sense. Is the iat underneath the tank?
Cheers

 

[Andrew Shadow]

See attached.

 

[Basher]

So i have the clymer manual for a 1800 wing and have followed the tests and all is well so it says i need a new ecm.
Non on ebay so is this a honda part and any idea how much they cost.
Cheers Steve

 

[Igofar]

Before you start spending several hundred dollars on an ECU, you may want to lift the tank, remove the airbox assembly, and clean the 5 way tee.
If this is clogged (common) it could be causing your FI light, regardless of the codes being thrown.
Also check to see if someone forgot to plug the white connector on the top of your airbox cover last time they were in there.

 

[Basher]

White plug is good and have the correct readings.
Do i just need an airline to clear the t out.

 

[Igofar]

Search the forum and/or article section and you'll find all the information you'll need.
You'll need a JIS screwdriver and some common tools, 8mm 10mm sockets, and a 5mm Allen.
You'll lift the tank, remove the screws from the airbox cover, remove the air filter, then remove the 4 snorkels and their bases, then lift the base up enough to pull the crank case breather tube (front of airbox) clip off, then pair hose (rear under air box base) off. The entire assembly will now lift off.
The map sensor switch is towards the rear of the throttle bodies, find the vacuum line going out the bottom of that forward, and it goes into a plastic 5 way tee.
The 4 lines of the T go down to the Throttle bodies.
Don't try and pull the vacuum lines off (Chinese finger trap) but rather push them off the T fitting.
Run a pipe cleaner through all the pipes of the T.
Then put everything back together etc.
You should find all the information you need in the articals.
Good luck.

 

[Basher]

Ok all that done. Was a lot smaller than i expected. Everything back together and then ran the bike for about 5 mins.
Reset the fi light and as soon as i turn the ignition back on its on again.
I'm a bit puzzled as i don't have to start it for it to know it has a problem.
Any next ideas?
Cheers Steve

 

[mjc506]

Have you gone through this pdf (including checking continuity between sensor and ECM?): https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/fi-light-problems.177911/post-2326682

(and the FI light does always illuminate with ignition on, turning off when started)

 

[Basher]

Yep done that.
Same as the wing.
Voltage and resistance spot on so it says replace ecm and try again.

 

[mjc506]

It'd be worth doing the same for the O2 sensor (there's a section in the service manual) too, but if the sensor and connections are good...

 

[Basher]

So i have ordered a new second hand ecu with keys and hiss part. Do i need to fit it all before trying it or just the ecu?
Cheers

 

[mjc506]

It won't start without the ECU matching the keys at least I think (you might be able to 'trick' it by holding the new key next to the antenna while using the old key to turn the ignition, but fiddly and lots of things to go wrong - probably easier to swap the lot). Good luck!