Final drive heat?

[Dave Pitman]

Nope, not a rider heat question!

So I'm going over my new to me ST1300 (2010) looking for potential issues as discussed in these forums. BTW, Thanks to all of you that have contributed to this data base!

After a thorough looking over, bolt checks, fluids, etc., I went out for a first ride of about 20 minutes. After I parked, I went around the bike checking for anything in the drive-train and brakes that were hot. Everything was well within what I expected. The drive side of the rear wheel was very warm. Not too hot as to prevent holding your hand on it, but very warm. The brakes on the other side were what I expected for the braking I had done at the end of the ride, and the axle/ bearing area was cool. Oh yeah, of course I checked the final drive fluid prior to the ride and it was clean and at the correct level.

It's been many years since I owned a shaft drive bike and I just wanted to confirm that this is normal heat before I stretch the rides out further.

Thank you, Dave

 

[SMSW]

Yes it's normal. There was another thread regarding this recently. After a long ride, the final drive will get too hot to touch for very long. It won't burn you like the exhaust pipes, but it does get hot.

 

[Dave Pitman]

Okay, thank you very much!

 

[Kevcules]

Yeah, I happened to notice that recently also. I was checking my rear rotor for heat and touched the other side. It was hotter than I expected but figured it was normal. Sounds like it is.

 

[Bush]

Friction causes heat. Maybe a good reason to be using a full synthetic gear oil in there??

 

[Dave Pitman]

Friction causes heat. Maybe a good reason to be using a full synthetic gear oil in there??

Yeah, probably a good idea.

 

[SMSW]

Friction causes heat. Maybe a good reason to be using a full synthetic gear oil in there??

I don't think this is an issue. There are more than a few ST's that have been using regular ole dino juice with zero problems. Sure synthetic will last longer, but the pumpkin on ST's is pretty much bulletproof. Lets make them last two lifetimes instead of only one?

 

[Dave Pitman]

Are most guys using full synthetic in the crankcase as well?
[EDIT] I just read half of the "Oil Thread Like...(with animals) and I probably should take my question back while there is still time!

 

[STRider]

https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/pu7k55

 

[Oldbikefixr]

For any new characters.................
It's important to clean and lube the rear drive splines at each tire change. Use the recommended moly pastes here...just use the 'search' upper right.
Have a friend who lost his rear drive on his Goldwing. All service, including tires and lube were done at the shop where he purchased his GL. Leaving a gas station, while on a trip, all he got was a loud ratcheting sound and no go. A local shop picked it up and repaired it....new hub and wheel, the area was dry/rusted.
Read the recommended maintenance schedule for whichever ST you have and adhere to it or have it done. Even the humdrum sounding stuff.

 

[Dave Pitman]

For any new characters.................
It's important to clean and lube the rear drive splines at each tire change. Use the recommended moly pastes here...just use the 'search' upper right.
Have a friend who lost his rear drive on his Goldwing. All service, including tires and lube were done at the shop where he purchased his GL. Leaving a gas station, while on a trip, all he got was a loud ratcheting sound and no go. A local shop picked it up and repaired it....new hub and wheel, the area was dry/rusted.
Read the recommended maintenance schedule for whichever ST you have and adhere to it or have it done. Even the humdrum sounding stuff.

Thanks. I have some Loctite 51043 incoming.

 

[Dave Pitman]

Engine off and on the center stand, if in 1st gear, there is about 2" of rotational free play measured at the tire. About right?

 

[rwthomas1]

Hot is normal. Check any vehicle with a separate differential, like a traditional domestic truck after an hour on the highway. You will find it quite warm. Now tow a significant load under the same conditions and you will likely find the differential is too hot to touch. This makes a great case for changing drive lube on the schedule, and for synthetic lubricants.

RT

 

[dduelin]

For any new characters.................
It's important to clean and lube the rear drive splines at each tire change. Use the recommended moly pastes here...just use the 'search' upper right.
Have a friend who lost his rear drive on his Goldwing. All service, including tires and lube were done at the shop where he purchased his GL. Leaving a gas station, while on a trip, all he got was a loud ratcheting sound and no go. A local shop picked it up and repaired it....new hub and wheel, the area was dry/rusted.
Read the recommended maintenance schedule for whichever ST you have and adhere to it or have it done. Even the humdrum sounding stuff.

That’s weird, was this in the last 20 years? The GL1800 Goldwing has a single sided swing arm and mounts the rear wheel like a car wheel. 5 hole wheel, studs & lug nuts like a car. The nothing like the ST’s requirement to lubricate a splined hub and matching wheel splines. There’s no such maintenance on a GL1800 tire change.

 

[mjc506]

Engine off and on the center stand, if in 1st gear, there is about 2" of rotational free play measured at the tire. About right?

yup

 

[Oldbikefixr]

That’s weird, was this in the last 20 years? The GL1800 Goldwing has a single sided swing arm and mounts the rear wheel like a car wheel. 5 hole wheel, studs & lug nuts like a car. The nothing like the ST’s requirement to lubricate a splined hub and matching wheel splines. There’s no such maintenance on a GL1800 tire change.

I didn't specify the year GL. This was some time back when GL's had final drives similar to our ST's. Tale is true.

 

[Dave Pitman]

Thanks, Matt!