Final Drive Oil

[V4RDR]

Hello all.

I plan on changing the final drive oil on my 2010 ST1300 and thought I would ask if anyone has heard of any issues using Mobil SAE 75W90 synthetic gear lube. I think it should be fine but it never hurts to ask.

Thanks.

 

[Al st1100]

Hello all.

I plan on changing the final drive oil on my 2010 ST1300 and thought I would ask if anyone has heard of any issues using Mobil SAE 75W90 synthetic gear lube. I think it should be fine but it never hurts to ask.

Thanks.

perfect, better rating . Just be very carefull not to over tighten the fill plug. They break easily

 

[dduelin]

That’s fine.

Probably a good idea to replace the fill cap O-ring. Likely been in there 11 years and has flattened out with heat and pressure. A deformed O-ring gives no feel of snugging to 9ft/lbs and contributes to over tightening and cracking it.

 

[Bush]

Popcorn not needed. The question has been answered.

 

[SMSW]

After you break the fill plug you can find one at almost any bike store. These caps were widely used to access adjustable tappets in the valve cover of many bikes.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

Popcorn not needed. The question has been answered.

any issues using Mobil SAE 75W90 synthetic gear lube

With a lead like that, I wanted to be prepared. All things being equal, I will probably use it myself.

edited for clarity

 

[oude geit]

180,000 miles and still going.

 

[Paul]

So, is this the Final, Drive oil thread?

 

[V4RDR]

Thanks for all of your comments guys !

 

[Al Gully]

I mark the oil fill cap location with a pencil witness mark before removing.
When tightening, I go back to the witness mark and a hair more.
Plug is made out of pot metal and breaks easily.

 

[mello dude]

I run that in my Valkyrie final drive, similar design, works fine...

 

[Bee]

I mark the oil fill cap location with a pencil witness mark before removing.
When tightening, I go back to the witness mark and a hair more.
Plug is made out of pot metal and breaks easily.

+1 me too

 

[ST Gui]

You might work on removing the fill cap before removing the drain plug. The fill cap is used on a number of Hondas so should be easily sourced. You might even pick up a spare when you get a new O-ring. If possible change the final drive fluid early on a business day when a local Honda parts place is open. Just sayin'.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I mark the oil fill cap location with a pencil witness mark before removing.
When tightening, I go back to the witness mark and a hair more.
Plug is made out of pot metal and breaks easily.

Curious to know if you mean that you use the original pencil mark as a permanent reference for this procedure?

If not, the second time that the final drive oil is changed, the starting point is now a hair more than where it was at the first oil change. At installation it will now be tightened an additional hair passed this new starting point. The third time will advance this by an additional hair tighter. Each subsequent time will be an additional hair tighter than the previous time. Eventually it will be tightened sufficiently to break the cap.

 

[wjbertrand]

I mark the oil fill cap location with a pencil witness mark before removing.
When tightening, I go back to the witness mark and a hair more.
Plug is made out of pot metal and breaks easily.

I just stop when I feel the cap lightly seat after the o-ring is compressed. Tightening further will not compress the o-ring, it'll just lead to breakage, either immediately or when one tries to remove it later.

 

[Mikedo]

You have to change that oil?

Next you'll tell me brake fluid needs changing.

Just kidding Igofar.

 

[Al Gully]

Curious to know if you mean that you use the original pencil mark as a permanent reference for this procedure?

You are correct

 

[Al Gully]

the second time that the final drive oil is changed, the starting point is now a hair more than where it was at the first oil change. At installation it will now be tightened an additional hair passed this new starting point. The third time will advance this by an additional hair tighter. Each subsequent time will be an additional hair tighter than the previous time. Eventually it will be tightened sufficiently to break the cap.

Not sure if you own a 0"-1" micrometer, if you do measure a hair, you"ll find that that they are around .003".
I've done 4 oil changes .012" and I bet I've only slightly compressed the O-ring due to the thread helix angle.

 

[Larry Fine]

I recently helped a friend remove the stuck valve adjust cover/fill cap on his Goldwing, after buying a new cap and O-ring.

I used a large pair of Channellocks to grip the outer diameter of the cap, not the hex-shaped dome. It was quick and easy.

 

[ST Gui]

I used a large pair of Channellocks to grip the outer diameter of the cap, not the hex-shaped dome. It was quick and easy.

They're probably the same caps that were on the 750-4s as well as a bunch of other Hondas. I've never had a stuck cover but I remember looking at the underside and saw how thin the aluminum was. It was easy to image how the hex portion could be ripped right off the cap were it sufficiently stuck.