First Time Owner - Changing Front Pads - Missed the Secret Code

[thood341]

I am changing the front pads on my 06 - and I must have missed the secret handshake class on changing from pads. I have the service manual and read thru a bunch of post and they all say - it's easy. I had change tons of pads on my cars and purchased a brake pad spreader to make the process "oh so easy". However, I seem to be missing that small bit of info or tool to make this a "15 min" process.

I have the pads off - have tried to push the pistons back in - but can't seem to get the right pad shoved (sorry slid) back into place. Off to dinner party now, so will have to continue later. This is just the right caliper - haven't even started on the left side.

any advice.

btw - i was trying not to remove the calipers at all - so I have loosen those bolts at all - is that needed?

Thanks for any advice.

Travis

 

[NorCalBusa]

Didja you remove the master cylinder cover before pushing the caliper pistons in?

 

[thood341]

Didja you remove the master cylinder cover before pushing the caliper pistons in?

Nope. Do I need to?

 

[v8-7]

No, but it might help especially if the brake fluid was topped off while the brakes were wearing .

A small piece of flatbar , such as 1x1/16 works for me or long screwdriver and use the old pads to pry against.

 

[Soontobeone]

When you push/slide the caliper piston back into the the caliper, the piston applies opposite hydraulic pressure in the lines. This can cause the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to fill up. This can make "pushing " the caliper piston in an impossibility.

Try removing the master cylinder cover and check its fluid level. Then, before you try pushing the piston in, cover the outside of the fluid reservoir with enough towels to catch any fluid that may overflow. If your reservoir is fairly full you may want to remove some fluid before trying to push the piston in. That way the fluid won't overflow.

That is why NorCalBusa asked if you had removed the master cylinder cover.

Let us know if removing the master cylinder cover helped.

 

[jvick98]

Good idea to clean crud off those pistons. If they are pushed in while dirty they have been known to impair the retraction function of the seals. Use brake fluid and a small toothbrush and strips of rags to get the back side of the piston. With the old pads still in place push the pistons out a bit with front brake handle to gain access to the entire portion of the piston that has been exposed. Don't ask how I know this.

Jim

 

[wjbertrand]

You could try opening the bleeder valves as you compress the pistons.

 

[thood341]

thanks for the responses. when I change pads on my car - I generally take the caliper off (leaving the brake lines connected) and use the disk spreader to push the pistons back into the caliper - without any bleeding of the brakes. Done it plenty of times and assumed the process would be similar here. I had my big screw flat screwdriver (cause I read it on a post) and pushed the bottom piston back into the caliper (without cleaning) and tried the same with the upper but when I tried to slip the right-side pad (next to pistons) back in place - it was hitting on something in the upper region - therefore going only about 3/4 way..then stopping. If i need to remove the caliper to clean the pistons - I don't mind doing that - but just wanted to avoid having to bleed the brakes and that process. I think I read that its a process that has to be done in a certain order / method - and I was trying to avoid that (this time).

will jump on this again tomorrow afternoon.

thanks for the responses.

 

[Silver Bullet]

You could try opening the bleeder valves as you compress the pistons.

That,s the way to do it, IMHO.! I use a rubber covered wood working C- clamp for pushing in pucs on all calipers I work on ,car or bike . works great !

MIKE

 

[thood341]

UPDATE: I was able to get the front brakes completed. Man, what an ordeal (for me). Once I got the reservoir opened - it was a lot easier - but I still had to pull the calipers to get the pistons compressed. This whole process just took way to long for my liking. I watch a couple of youtube video's last night also - on how to change pad. Their process was a little more involved - cause they cleaned, added new pads, flushed and bleed the brakes. Oh well, lesson learned for next time. still need to go for test ride.

I actually had a list of things I wanted to get done this weekend

• Front Brake Pads - done
• Rear Brake Pads - pads still good
• Change Diff Fluid - done
• Change Oil - didn't have right size filter wrench
• Change Air Filter - previous owner kept the rod to hold the tank up - so I need to purchase new rod.
• Complete installation of Bestem top box. - just didn't get to this

In the process I somehow manage to break one of the push clips - trying to pull the maintenance cover off - when the oil filler is location (back to dealer now). I also lost one of the screws to attach the side panel on the battery side. Lets see what else when "right". Oh, it appears that my instrument gauges aren't displaying now. I took the saddle bags off yesterday and had to disconnect the saddlebag lights - added by the previous owner. I left the wires dangling - so I hope its just that the loop isn't closed and that I haven't shorted something out. anyway will pickup a few parts at the "stealer" tomorrow.

Unfortunately, I have life things to do as well, so I haven't been able to spend all day working out the issues. I have until Wednesday to get these items completed - as I have a ride on Thursday.

thanks for the assistace with brakes.
I love this site !!!

 

[Scooter]

The prop rod is typically located under the passenger seat along the left hand side. Not to easy to find if you don't know what to look out for.

I also suspect that you might have blown the fuse for the instruments. Check fuse B in the fuse block...

 

[thood341]

where is the fuse block?? Are their multiple?

I believe the previous owner did a lot of modifications / attachments - so I am not sure of all the changes. During my hunting for fuse block - I found a lot of places where wires had been cut and the connector were still in place (see pictures in my gallery).

 

[Scooter]

Yes, there two fuse boxes (as Honda calls them in the service manual) and they are both accessed by removing the left hand side cover (the one where the center stand grip protrudes from) from the bike.

 

[thood341]

I have the service manual for 03 - 07 models and looked in the index and didn't see the word - "fuse" in the list. Strange.
Thanks for info. If I have any more electrical questions - I will open a new thread in that section.

 

[roadriderg]

All the fuse's that you show are aftermarket fuse's. You will now have to check all the bike fuses on the left side of the bike to verify all are good.

There is also one master fuse on the top of the battery in a 3" long + or - plastic box , this is a link fuse that can be blown also. If you look at your battery you will see the wording fuse. Right above this is the master link fuse.
All others that are stock are atm mini fuse's.

 

[Mondo]

If you do not have the prop rod, you can hold the tank up with bungee cords. I have the rod but prefer to use bungees.

Greg Kane