I agree entirely the sentiment behind Dave's post. This isn't a place to be messing around with Heath Robinson repairs. (Who is Robinson, anyway ??)
The thread is in the bracket, not in the fork leg - but I still would not want to drill out the fork leg lug to accomodate a larger diameter bolt. Ditto the caliper bracket, for a new thread or a hexicoil insert.
I don't think that there is enough space for a bolt head or a nut on the lower mounting hole. The upper mounting hole clears the brake disk/rotor but does not have enough clearance for a bolt head or a nut head to fit. The curvature of the bracket casting adjacent to the hole will prevent it from seating properly.
Compared to a life - any life, not just your own - a brand new bracket is peanuts.
Or buy a good second hand one - but beware of getting one with accident damage. As I mentioned earlier, note that the pre-2008 versions are different from 2008 models and later. The bolt holes align OK with the forks, but the calipers mounts (and the ABS sensor mount) are all different.
It sounds a bit over the top to buy new ? Well I had to in the last few months. My right hand cliper bleed thread hole was damaged. I could not risk the bleed valve from seating incorrectly and slowly leaking fluid. Safety demanded a replacement. I found a pristine 2nd hand one for less than the cost of two tanks of fuel.
You say yours is a 2010 model ? But check the actual
model year of your bike - not the date of first registration. It's on the label under the seat, and is represented by the 10th character of the VIN stamped on the right hand side of the headstock. The letter code is A for 2010, but I am unsure how the USA system of the vehicle code on the label works. It is different in the UK from what I see on the Ron Ayers site.
As a quick check - the pre 2008 models have a recessed allen key socket at the end of the pad pin, fitted with a rubber bung. From 2008 they have a protruding hexagon bolt head that requires a spanner or socket. But these can be retro fitted with a slight modification, so it isn't a foolproof method of recognising the model year.
Disassemble the brake and buy a brand new bracket subassembly?
No need to disassemble the brake caliper on the right hand side. Just remove the pads, undo the bolts (you already have) and slide the caliper off the bracket. If you have ABS, you'll need to unbolt the sensor. You may need to fit a boot, a slider and a pad retaining clip from the old bracket, and grease the sliders with silicone or rubber grease. And there is possibly a cable retaining clip - I can't remember for certain. The caliper will then slide on to the new bracket.
This is unlike the left hand side which has the SMC plumbed into the brake lines. The right hand bracket is not affected at all by the brake's plumbing.
