I have a 2004 ST1300. I took my front brake off to look at the pads, then when I put the brake back on and rode the bike, I noticed my front-end was seizing, meaning that the front end shocks were acting as though I was braking, when I wasn't, and it was getting tighter and tighter until I could barely ride. I stopped the bike, took off the front brake (because I thought maybe the pads were seizing up against the disk), but the bike is STILL seized up front and won't loosen. The front shocks are depressed (as if I'm in a permanent "strong brake" position) even when the front brake is detached completely. I can barely move the bike now because of the front seizing, even with the front brake completely detached. When I install the front brake, it makes no difference, I'm in a permanent seize. Any ideas? Thanks . . .
Front Shocks Seizing
- Thread starter Islanders
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Sounds like you may have put the pads in where the top grove is not all the way in, or if you took the wheel off you may have the spacers on the wrong sides??
I didn't take the wheel off, so that can't be it. Regarding putting the pads not all the way in, I'm looking at that, but wouldn't detaching the brake completely solve that problem? I realize not having the brake on isn't an end solution, but if it were the pads, I'd figure detaching the brake would alleviate the pressure on the front forks back to normal.
How old is your brake fluid in there? You may have some dirty fluid and or pistons on the brake calipers.
Mike I think he is saying that the forks are compressed and not rebounding.
Steve, that's exactly right, and they aren't rebounding even with the entire front brake detached, so I know it can't be the brake pads gripping the wheel too tight or anything. I thought maybe that's what it was, but I took the brake off, started the bike, and I could still barely move forward because of the compression on the front shocks.
What do you mean by detaching the brake (both sides?) completely?
Pull pads or pulling the calipers off?
Is the rear locked up?
You can keep forks compressed while not moving if you keep the breaks on iow the wheel base can't expand back to resting position. Compressed forks in and of itself isn't going to make it hard to move the bike.
Do you have a fork brace installed?
If so check that you didn't bottom out and crush a brake line.
I'd get it on the ctr stand and figure out exactly what's locked up.
Something's not adding up maybe pictures would help?
Pull pads or pulling the calipers off?
Is the rear locked up?
You can keep forks compressed while not moving if you keep the breaks on iow the wheel base can't expand back to resting position. Compressed forks in and of itself isn't going to make it hard to move the bike.
Do you have a fork brace installed?
If so check that you didn't bottom out and crush a brake line.
I'd get it on the ctr stand and figure out exactly what's locked up.
Something's not adding up maybe pictures would help?
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Okay, here's the situation, I had only the right side brake off, so I detached the left-side also. I'm able to ride the bike with much less compression, though some is still there. I think the left-side brake was seizing up, though I don't know why. Now that I have both sides of the front brake off, is there any specific way I should install them back on so that I prevent one side seizing up? (if this info isn't enough, I'll upload a picture, though all the photo will show is both sides of the brake being off right now). Thanks for your help . . .
By the way, by "detaching the brake" what I meant was that I unscrewed the entire front brake set-up, so the pads and calipers are entirely off and not rubbing against the wheel at all. I'll attach a pic in a second.
That's my guess...
Looking at the pics. What is all the dark stuff on the left fork? I also see fluid on the tire. Brake fluid, fork fluid or something else.
The brakes don't do anything with the forks. I agree that brakes held on front and rear can compress the forks from the forward motion but once brakes are released the forks should return.
I haven't tore my 1300 forks apart but I don't think there is an anti-dive device in the forks. At least not tied to the calipers that I am aware of. There is the SMC but that doesn't go into the fork like the anti-dive on my 1100.
I would question the fluid, blown fork seals, no fluid and forks not working properly as a speculation. It is hard to say from this far away though.
The brakes don't do anything with the forks. I agree that brakes held on front and rear can compress the forks from the forward motion but once brakes are released the forks should return.
I haven't tore my 1300 forks apart but I don't think there is an anti-dive device in the forks. At least not tied to the calipers that I am aware of. There is the SMC but that doesn't go into the fork like the anti-dive on my 1100.
I would question the fluid, blown fork seals, no fluid and forks not working properly as a speculation. It is hard to say from this far away though.
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If the forks are seized in a compressed condition it might be because the left leg leaked so much fluid the bushings are destroyed and seizing on the fork tube. It doesn't look the brakes have anything to do with it.
Tough to believe it would bind that much but... maybe that fork oil and road filth crudded up the pistons enough that they don't want to return. If it did that on the left side it would keep pressure on the SMC and also apply back brake.
Also the piston seals probably aren't going to like seeing fork oil and swell.
Front and back brake on it would hold the forks compressed.
If both calipers are off and front wheel still doesn't want to rotate I don't have a guess.
With no brakes on I don't see what would keep keep the forks compressed more than their normal resting state.
No oil in the shock shouldn't? effect sag just how it behaves under changing load.
If the bushing is shot it would stick.
I think 1st I'd fix the forks so you don't trash a new set of brake pads.
Clean out the gunk replace the slider bushing, dust and oil seals.
Check the springs for compression set as long as you're in there.
Then extend the brake pistons past the crude line and clean them up with brake fluid and a strip of scrubby pad or a fat shoe lace wrapped around to get at the back sides of the brake pistons. I might break my own rule and spray some brake cleaner in there after that to get the oil of the piston dust seals. Then push em flush to the caliper. Put the old set of pads in to protect them and use a screw driver to lever the pistons back flush. Brake cleaner on the rotors to clean the fork oil off of them. The put the calipers back on an install fresh uncontaminated pads and make sure they're fully seated. And flush the fluid.
Also the piston seals probably aren't going to like seeing fork oil and swell.
Front and back brake on it would hold the forks compressed.
If both calipers are off and front wheel still doesn't want to rotate I don't have a guess.
With no brakes on I don't see what would keep keep the forks compressed more than their normal resting state.
No oil in the shock shouldn't? effect sag just how it behaves under changing load.
If the bushing is shot it would stick.
I think 1st I'd fix the forks so you don't trash a new set of brake pads.
Clean out the gunk replace the slider bushing, dust and oil seals.
Check the springs for compression set as long as you're in there.
Then extend the brake pistons past the crude line and clean them up with brake fluid and a strip of scrubby pad or a fat shoe lace wrapped around to get at the back sides of the brake pistons. I might break my own rule and spray some brake cleaner in there after that to get the oil of the piston dust seals. Then push em flush to the caliper. Put the old set of pads in to protect them and use a screw driver to lever the pistons back flush. Brake cleaner on the rotors to clean the fork oil off of them. The put the calipers back on an install fresh uncontaminated pads and make sure they're fully seated. And flush the fluid.
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Yes, but if the calipers are off the forks that can't happen.
But that could be a stuck SMC. I doubt he can pick up the front of the bike and see if the front wheel spins same goes for the rear so we don't know which or if both wheels are stuck. A locked rear brake due to SMC could prevent moving the bike. crack the bleed points on the rear brake and see if the bike moves.
While I agree that no oil alone won't keep the forks compressed, the fork oil is there for a couple reasons. Not knowing how long it has (possiblly) been way low on fork oil who knows what other damage has been done.
I repeat it is hard to diagnose from however many miles away. I speculate there is a couple things going on. Maybe a chain reaction type issue due to not watching things. Fork seals leak, that gunks up other stuff (SMC but they are plenty good at failing on their own without any help) and causes further issues and a lack of oil (one of the jobs is lubrication) this lead to further internal fork damage.
I would crack the bleed points on the rear caliper and see if the bike moves. That points to a SMC issue. That would have nothing to do with the forks. The evidence on the left fork points to a blown seal on that leg which happened a long time ago and ignored. What additional issues that caused is hard to say. Possible bushing issues in the fork which may be hard to take apart now depending on how buggered up things are. With it low on fork oil it might be possible that the forks over compressed bottoming out and possibly causing other internal issues.
I would lean on SMC issue (lack of movement of the bike) and fork issues (stuck suspension).
Thanks all for the ideas and things to look at. Last I was working on it a few hours ago, once the brakes are off, the bike DOES roll, though I thought I still noticed some compression in the forks (but I may have been imagining it). When it cools down a bit later tonight, I'll re-attach the brake and see if the full compression returns. As for the oil down the forks, yes, I've neglected getting my forks fixed, but a lot of that liquid is lubricant I used when removing the brake. But agreed, I may have damaged things by not servicing the forks.
If it rolls with the brakes off, were the calipers difficult to remove? You mentioned lube to remove the brakes.
Low fork fluid could cause the forks to compress more. It was mentioned to check the cross pipe on the brake lines where it crosses the top of the fender. Make sure it isn't dented or pinched. If the forks bottomed out more than normal it may explain the front brakes hanging up. What does the brake fluid look like and caliper piston movement. Doesn't explain the forks being compressed.
Bottom line is that the brakes need a good going over and you need to get the fork leak addressed. While in there inspect the elements of the forks to make sure there is no damage.
Low fork fluid could cause the forks to compress more. It was mentioned to check the cross pipe on the brake lines where it crosses the top of the fender. Make sure it isn't dented or pinched. If the forks bottomed out more than normal it may explain the front brakes hanging up. What does the brake fluid look like and caliper piston movement. Doesn't explain the forks being compressed.
Bottom line is that the brakes need a good going over and you need to get the fork leak addressed. While in there inspect the elements of the forks to make sure there is no damage.
First off- I'm sorry if this sounds like I'm being an azz but I care out other people's safety: As a professional mechanic, there are things you should NOT be messing with if you don't know how they operate, how to service them, and the potential dangers involved if you do something wrong. Brakes are a prime example. Let a professional do the work, wait until you can find a tech event so someone can help and teach you, or at least find a friend with experience who can help and show you what to do. A mistake with a brake system could have easily resulted in a locked up wheel when you least expect it, causing injury...or worse.
That oil has obviously been getting on the pads- that means the pads are contaminated. They will NEED to be replaced, not reinstalled. Fix the leak first, then install new pads. Whether the contamination is what was causing your binding, I can't tell by pictures, but it is quite possible. At the least the oil will reduce braking power when you need it; at worse, it damages the friction material and can cause brakes to lock up. It sounds like the brakes were working until you worked on it; so you may have put something back on wrong (as was mentioned...possible didn't have the pad(s) seated correctly). But looking at the severity of the leak, there is no point wasting your time putting it back together. Repair the leak first, then put new brake pads on.
That oil has obviously been getting on the pads- that means the pads are contaminated. They will NEED to be replaced, not reinstalled. Fix the leak first, then install new pads. Whether the contamination is what was causing your binding, I can't tell by pictures, but it is quite possible. At the least the oil will reduce braking power when you need it; at worse, it damages the friction material and can cause brakes to lock up. It sounds like the brakes were working until you worked on it; so you may have put something back on wrong (as was mentioned...possible didn't have the pad(s) seated correctly). But looking at the severity of the leak, there is no point wasting your time putting it back together. Repair the leak first, then put new brake pads on.
I agree, and I shouldn't have messed with them in the first place, I thought they'd be easier to service than this, so I'm taking your advice and bringing the entire bike in on a trailer. The fact that I experienced any "seizing" like I have has scared me enough to not work on it any further and just bring it in. You're not coming across as an ***, I appreciate your concern, and message received. Thanks.
Since you have an interest in doing your own maintenance, you should watch for a tech event in your area. Even if you don't have anything that needs work on your own bike at the time, they are a good place to meet other ST owners, and watch & learn about various maintenance items. There are usually a wide range of skill levels at the events, and novices are very welcome. Watching, learning, & asking questions is all a part of a tech event.
Good luck with the brake issue, and please post back when you know what it turned out to be.
Good luck with the brake issue, and please post back when you know what it turned out to be.