Front wheel bearings questions..

[Odie1]

fwiw - the bearings I got - marked for 97 - 02 - are too big.

A little larger in circumference and in height...(width?...however you want to look at it)

Odie1

 

[Al st1100]

fwiw - the bearings I got - marked for 97 - 02 - are too big.

A little larger in circumference and in height...(width?...however you want to look at it)

Odie1

different see ebay ..Honda ST1100 1991-1996 Front Wheel Bearings And Seals Kit .... Honda ST1100 1997-2002 Front Wheel Bearings And Seals Kit

 

[ST1100Y]

The usual "there 3 ST1100 models"... + some minor changes over the years...

ST1100 non abs '90-'00
ST1100 ABS-I/TCS '92~'94
ST1100 ABS-II/CBS '96 onward...

on my '94 standard I find:
91054MN8741, bearing radial, 6004DU
91257KA3711, DUST, SEAL 28X42X8
91258ML7003, KPH DUST SEAL, 45X55X5

ST1100AN/AP/AR (ABS-I/TCS, "angry aubergine" livery)
91054MN8741, BEARING, RADIAL 6004DU
91257KA3711, DUST, SEAL 28X42X8
91258ML7003, KPH DUST SEAL, 45X55X5

on the '00 standard:
91052MZ2A21, bearing radial, 6204DU
91252MC4003, OILSEAL, 28X47.2x7
91258ML7003 , DUST SEAL, 45X55X5

and the finale on the '96 onward ABS-II/CBS:
91052MZ2A21, bearing radial, 6205DU
91252MC4003, OILSEAL, 28X47.2X7
91258ML7003, DUST SEAL, 45X55X5


so somewhen '95~'96 both, standard and ABS-II, got the larger 6204DU bearings...

 

[jdmccright]

It would be great to correlate the above with the front wheel part number which I presume would have changed as the design did. Even more so since many bikes now have been cobbled together from other bikes or a dented rim gets replaced. So, a "new" owner may not know which bearing set is actually correct for their wheel.

I believe some identifying marks are molded into the wheel surface not necessarily the actual part number, so maybe refer those as well?

 

[Uncle Phil]

I know the 'width' of the rim is stamped on there - that's how you tell an ABSII rim from an ABSI/Standard rim.
I also know that any year rim will fit on any 96 or later ST1100 (had examples of all and tried it - just didn't have a 95 or earlier ST1100 to try).
The only 'fitment' issue is using the correct discs for the model on the rim of choice.

 

[jdmccright]

I know the 'width' of the rim is stamped on there - that's how you tell an ABSII rim from an ABSI/Standard rim.
I also know that any year rim will fit on any 96 or later ST1100 (had examples of all and tried it - just didn't have a 95 or earlier ST1100 to try).
The only 'fitment' issue is using the correct discs for the model on the rim of choice.

Hmmmm, then maybe the wheels don't change but the axle, spacers, or other stuff does.

 

[Odie1]

Another update - and a plug.

I had ordered from Rocky Mountain ATV and their "tech support" folks contacted me. He advised that indeed on the non-ABS, the bearing size changed from the 96 to the 97, and they had the part listed wrong in their database. Told me to keep what I had and they are sending me the correct set. Return shipping would be more than what the part is worth.

FWIW - list on a parts fiche

96 - (non-ABS) 6004UU , 91054-MAM-003
97 - (non-ABS) 6204UU, 91052-MAE-004

A picture of the old 96 (left) vs the new 97...

So - good on them. Anyone need a set of front wheel bearings and dust seals for a 97 or newer standard? Be happy to send them to you.

Just PM me.

Odie1

 

[Uncle Phil]

Hmmmm, then maybe the wheels don't change but the axle, spacers, or other stuff does.

It appears that the wheel 'internals' changed, but the total 'dimension' between the forks stayed the same.

 

[ST1100Y]

per logic I would have expected them to upgrade the front bearings already with the ABS-I/TCS...

but it seems they'd done a "standardization" with the launch of the '96 ABS-II/CBS instead...

Anyway it shows the issue with pattern part offers...
I always consult a competent fiche site to research my model & year to get a P/N and item description/type...
And I'm not happy with aftermarket bearings, found those with the blue lids (All Balls?) in my GF's NT700VA failing prematurely, 1mm play gives a lot of movement, the bike was jerky and all over the place in corners...
And on a CX500 I had to order 3 head-bearing kits to build one I could make working (still had to modify the steering limiters though... but at least the steering lock did engage properly again)

 

[jdmccright]

Another update - and a plug.

I had ordered from Rocky Mountain ATV and their "tech support" folks contacted me. He advised that indeed on the non-ABS, the bearing size changed from the 96 to the 97, and they had the part listed wrong in their database. Told me to keep what I had and they are sending me the correct set. Return shipping would be more than what the part is worth.

FWIW - list on a parts fiche

96 - (non-ABS) 6004UU , 91054-MAM-003
97 - (non-ABS) 6204UU, 91052-MAE-004

A picture of the old 96 (left) vs the new 97...

So - good on them. Anyone need a set of front wheel bearings and dust seals for a 97 or newer standard? Be happy to send them to you.

Just PM me.

Odie1

I can use them on my 2000 NON-ABS if they arent spoken for.

 

[DannoXYZ]

per logic I would have expected them to upgrade the front bearings already with the ABS-I/TCS...

but it seems they'd done a "standardization" with the launch of the '96 ABS-II/CBS instead...

Anyway it shows the issue with pattern part offers...
I always consult a competent fiche site to research my model & year to get a P/N and item description/type...
And I'm not happy with aftermarket bearings, found those with the blue lids (All Balls?) in my GF's NT700VA failing prematurely, 1mm play gives a lot of movement, the bike was jerky and all over the place in corners...
And on a CX500 I had to order 3 head-bearing kits to build one I could make working (still had to modify the steering limiters though... but at least the steering lock did engage properly again)

Not sure who Honda buys their bearings from, I always try to get SKF, NSK, Kyoto replacement bearings. They can be better than OEM with ABEC 4 or 5 rating. Timken used to be good, but have gone downhill after their restructuring/split.

If not one of above, I always pop seal off and inspect grease package. Most of time, issue is inadequate amount of grease or poor-quality. Mineral greases tend to have low drop-point temps and will liquidy when heated by brakes and no longer provide lubrication.

I’ll rinse out all grease and pack to 75% with full-synthetic Mobil-1 grease.

 

[jfheath]

Ive seen Kyoto on a couple of OEM bearings that I have had.

When buying bearings by part number, there can be a code which relates to the internal bearing clearance. c1, c2, cn, c3 etc. Cn is 'normal'. The others indicate tighter than normal or looser than normal.


I only know this because I needed a front wheel bearing quickly, and went to a back street bike shop. he provided me with two bearings that had this extra code. They felt sloppy. Far too much play for a front wheel. So I researched, didn't fit them and ordered the OEMs. The OEM bearing didn't have the clearance code, but they didn't feel sloppy like the others that I bought. So I just buy the OEM bearings now.

 

[DannoXYZ]

Yeah, looser bearings are typically required on high-speed applications such as 10000rpm motors or drive-shafts on cars (spins at engine speed). They heat up more and expand in use and close up looseness. Thus the sloppy feeling at room temperature. They also need matching grease package as well with lighter viscosity to not cause too much shear friction. Meanwhile, front-wheel on our bikes only spins around 800rpms @ 100kph.

 

[ST1100Y]

If not one of above, I always pop seal off and inspect grease package. Most of time, issue is inadequate amount of grease or poor-quality. Mineral greases tend to have low drop-point temps and will liquidy when heated by brakes and no longer provide lubrication.

I don't go that far, as I trust that the brown DU rated OEM seals are superior (and they do provide the highest lifetime IMO)
I do however re-pack the gap between bearing and black outward seal with sufficient amounts of waterproof marine grease on every occasion the wheel comes off, as well as thoroughly clean the spacers (and speedo gear housing) prior installation...
(to keep any high pressure wash nozzle away from that area should be a no brainer...)

 

[newtonhubcap]

Blind Bearing puller works best!

 

[jfheath]

Regarding the bearing size for 95,96, 97 models. I'm just adding this for anyone else looking in, rather than a response to any comment made previously.

When ordering parts, you do have to be very careful about the model year of your motorcycle - as opposed to the date of first registration - which could be later than the model year.

The model year can be identified by the label under the seat. ST1100AT for example is an ABS mode form 1996. (T=96). Or you can find the same code letter/number in the 10th character of the VIN. Dealers will happily state that a bike is a 96, when it may be a 96 registered model built to the 95 spec.

Very occasionally, parts change part way through the production run of a particular model. For example my ST1300A9 - the 2009 model, came of the production line in September 2013. WHn I cam to order a new radiator, the dealer wanted the serial number of the bike. I asked why. He said that the radiator changed part way through the run, and later A9 models list the radiator that was used on the ST1300AE - 2014 model. MIne is the later A9. I was quite pleased about this, cos' the 2014 radiator cost £100 less than the ones fitted to the other A9s.

I checked all of the components to which the radiator was attached - the same part numbers were used for the 2009 and 2014 models.
All except for ........ the radiator cap !

 

[Big-E]

I'm a follower of the rawl-bolt method. The bearing pops out in the blink of an eye