Gas Tank Gauge Issue...

Igofar said:
While the arm/float may be sticking, its more likely caused by a film of corrosion on the face of the unit.
Carefully remove it, and take a soft pencil eraser and gently clean the surface, and put it back together.
You'll find its working again.
Be very careful not to pinch wires, or damage the lower tanks sealing lip.
Also be very careful not to over torque the fasteners on the studs on the lower tank.
There is also a sequence that is different between years in the pattern you tighten them in, check your service manual.
I would caution against using a torque wrench, unless you have a very high quality one, that has been calibrated recently for inch pounds.
Search the forum for these issues.
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So is the photo you included the "sending unit" (ie: probably a specialized potentiometer)...?? Does the whole unit pictured actually sit IN the gasoline inside the tank...? I wouldn't think that type of electronic part should be fully immersed in gas... Hmmmm....
 
Be careful with the additives, you shouldn't need them. In the words of petroleum engineers "Some additives won't hurt you engine"
That is my whole soap box statement, do not want to start in on additive back and forth. Ends up as a long conversation with no end
 
The Dark Shadow said:
So is the photo you included the "sending unit" (ie: probably a specialized potentiometer)...?? Does the whole unit pictured actually sit IN the gasoline inside the tank...? I wouldn't think that type of electronic part should be fully immersed in gas... Hmmmm....
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Yes, yes, and yes it does, just like in every car and truck.
 
The Dark Shadow said:
So is the photo you included the "sending unit" (ie: probably a specialized potentiometer)...?? Does the whole unit pictured actually sit IN the gasoline inside the tank...? I wouldn't think that type of electronic part should be fully immersed in gas... Hmmmm....
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The parts are designed to be submerged in fuel... Mostly. Starting at the turn of the century, there was a steep rise in fuel system failures that coincided with the introduction of ethanol in fuel. In the beginning, there were failures of rubber o-rings, gaskets and hoses. Manufacturers quickly came up with compatible parts to cope with the ethanol. For the most part, the problem went away. Where you still see issues are motors that see little or low use, lawn and garden equipment, snowmobiles, motorcycles, etc. Ethanol attracts water. When the two get together, they create the perfect environment to grow a type of bacteria called acetobacter . If left unchecked, this very corrosive bacteria can eat away at the fuel system components. Im not saying this has happened to your fuel sender unit, but if you dont ride much, I would stick to ethanol-free fuel.
 
Oh yeah I remember when that started, changed a whole bunch of fuel filters when the alcohol cleaned the sludge into the filters. Every spring I drop the float bowl on the mowers to cleanout the winters crap. Have neighbors that I have to do it for too. lots of mowers on line for not starting in spring.
Diesel has always had a problem with algae on the edge of fuel and moisture layers. Shows up in water separator. Had friends run into water in fuel going to Alaska too.
It is really bad if it gets to the diesel injectors sometimes, steam pressure blows the tips off injectors, ruins pumps and is a bitch to flush out of system. clear water separators should be standard on all diesel engines, Sorry, got off track, I don't have a diesel truck.
 
The Dark Shadow said:
Which did you use...??
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SeaFoam Motor Treatment- the one shown in post #20.
motornut said:
Be careful with the additives, you shouldn't need them. In the words of petroleum engineers "Some additives won't hurt you engine"
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I agree in principle. I am not a big additive advocate. I am not advocating for perpetual and continual use, only purpose specific. Used properly and judiciously, they pose no danger.

This particular product, SeaFoam, used in this way has been proven both harmless and beneficial.
 
I do not disagree with you either, if it works that is what you do. There is nothing cast in stone, No one is 100 percent right. When it gets to a certain amount of opinion, if you think yours is the only right one you are probably wrong. I have been wrong before, but don't tell anyone!
In some cases the crud breaks loose and plugs the screen for the injectors which can be cleaned, but the plugging is rare. I do use injector a cleaner kit and I just happen to know someone who cleans them too with a bench cleaner. So my situation is in more favorable conditions than others, so you definitely have to use what you have.
 
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