Harsh Rear Suspension

[ddemair]

I have a 2010 St1300 with 75,000 miles. Calling the rear suspension "harsh" is probably overstating it. It's more like firm. I thought it was fine until I rode another ST1300 which is a few years newer with less than half the miles.

This other ST had a slightly more comfortable ride. Mine isn't bad enough that I'd be interested in replacing the shock, but I would be interested in knowing if I might have bodged the pre-load when I replaced the fluid or if it's just a symptom of age/miles.

 

[dduelin]

I have a 2010 St1300 with 75,000 miles. Calling the rear suspension "harsh" is probably overstating it. It's more like firm. I thought it was fine until I rode another ST1300 which is a few years newer with less than half the miles.

This other ST had a slightly more comfortable ride. Mine isn't bad enough that I'd be interested in replacing the shock, but I would be interested in knowing if I might have bodged the pre-load when I replaced the fluid or if it's just a symptom of age/miles.

Measure the static and rider sag and see it the shock is worth messing with. It’s probably riding so far down it’s travel what you feel is firm is the shock hitting bottom.

 

[jfheath]

What @dduelin said. But the pre-load doesn't affect the strength of the spring. Maybe worth checking the damping setting through the little hole in the right footpeg bracket. Start by returning it to the standard setting (see owners manual) and take it from there.

 

[dduelin]

What @dduelin said. But the pre-load doesn't affect the strength of the spring. Maybe worth checking the damping setting through the little hole in the right footpeg bracket. Start by returning it to the standard setting (see owners manual) and take it from there.

Yes, preload has no effect on spring rate but it does set ride height and without measuring sag one has no idea what that height is and setting sag from there tells you whether or not the preloader has full or partial travel. The relationship of static to rider sag is the tell whether or not the spring rate is a decent match to the rider. That’s why it’s important to know sag at the start.

 

[SMSW]

You might consider shipping the shock off to RaceTech for their GoldValve treatment and rebuilding. I thought my '10 ST was a bit harsh going over RR tracks and those ridges in asphalt pavement. I did the front Gold Valves myself and it made a big difference - sort of spread out the bump. Some months later I shipped the rear shock off to them - the change was not as dramatic as the front, but it was an obvious change.

 

[Catmandu2]

the change was not as dramatic as the front, but it was an obvious change.

Did you feel that the change achieved on the rear was worth the cost ?? thx, CAt'

 

[dduelin]

I thought the Racetech shock do over was worth it.

 

[SMSW]

Did you feel that the change achieved on the rear was worth the cost ?? thx, CAt'

That is a very hard question to answer - part of it depends on your values and disposable cash. As I recall, the rear cost around $450 - I had them rebuild the shock and replace the preload hose. The improvement was not that great. Before Gold Valves, when I went over bumps the rear end kicked my butt (it was a young bike, 2010 w/ around 30+k miles on it at the time of the work). Afterward, like the front, the bump was spread out. RaceTech advised changing the spring and I felt the bike sat higher afterward (with me aboard) despite my instructions to them that I did not want the bike's height to change. I'm not an aggressive rider, but the few times I got into curves a bit too fast the bike handled in a way that inspired confidence - just lean 'er over a bit more. The bike's capabilities were way beyond mine (as a rider), and even to my uneducated butt, there WAS an improvement, so I'd have to say I would spend the money and do it again.

 

[Catmandu2]

Thanks for the candid answer,,, and that's pretty much what I thought. At one point,, I bought a complete rear shock ass'y,, with thoughts of lowering the rear .75 to 1 inch. Then I found that with the right boots,, and an extra pair of socks,, my legs were actually long enough. Since then,,, I have cranked on %100 preload all the time,,, and have just forgotten all about the preload/sag and rebound. It does track well enough, since I switched to GT/HWM/A-spec build tires. And, when I am heavily loaded,,, say 2 up and maybe full bags and fuel,,, I just dial performance back appropriately. For me,, at this point,,, I don't see the need to spend money on the rear suspension. And the budget mod's that I made in the front are adequate as well,,, with 3/4" preload spacers and 5wt fluid on my '04. Interestingly,, my '12 seems fine as is,, but will get a closer look at what's inside at the first fluid change this winter. I am sure that Racetech gold-stuff would provide big gains up front, at a cost $$$. Thanks for your perspective,,, cheers,, and happy 4th,,, CAt'

That is a very hard question to answer

 

[SMSW]

I am sure that Racetech gold-stuff would provide big gains up front, at a cost $$$.

The front RT Gold Valves cost around 350 - 400 USD, I think. But I also replaced all the bushings, dust seals, etc. with new Honda OEM parts which added maybe $100?. Kept the original springs, but added a bit of preload. The difference was significant.

 

[ddemair]

I'm a little chagrined to report why the other ST1300 had a smoother ride. His tire pressure was WAY low. I don't think he's checked it in a couple of years.

I didn't ride it far enough nor did I take any real turns to really notice the low pressure. We pumped it up and now his bike rides like mine.