Heated clothing....

[rwthomas1]

Hello All,
I didn't know where to put this post. Heated accessories seems to be about the wiring, etc. and not the actual clothing. So here it is. I purchased a nice set of Gerbing gloves from a Forum member and now I'm looking for a vest or jacket liner. I commute in an Aerostich, not sure if that makes any difference, but I'm going to ask the questions in a list:

1. Wiring: My plan is to run the wiring up to the steering head area and secure the coaxial plug there. Run the temperature control wiring back across the tank, velcro the controller to the gas tank door, and then run the wire into the suit through one of the side access pockets. Since I'm starting out with just gloves, I'm thinking secure the wiring to the suit lining with a few stitches? Does that sound reasonable?

2. Vest or jacket liner? Vest can be had cheaper, the jacket liner has advantage of integrated wiring in addition to the larger heating area. I'm not touring in winter, with day-long rides. I'm on the bike for 45min each way. I'm also not all that sensitive to the cold after a couple decades of working construction through New England winters. So I'm thinking vest....

3. I'm making the assumption that the less I wear the heated gloves, the longer they will last? The heating wires have a finite lifespan with regard to being flexed during use? So wear them when I need the heated feature, but use regular insulated gloves if they are enough to stay warm. Sound about right?

I guess the post is more of a "how the gear is used/best practices" than anything else, so any tips or hints on heated gear use would be greatly appreciated.

RT

 

[Nashcat]

Here’s my $.02. I would go with a jacket liner that has wiring for the gloves, already installed in the sleeves. I prefer heated grips to heated gloves. The grips are always there when you need them, especially on cool wet days.

John

 

[Uncle Phil]

Heated Jacket liner over vest (I've had both) with the glove connection like John mentioned.
As far as heated gloves, Gordon's (who is the old Gerbing family) have a lifetime warranty on their gloves.
Their gloves are also made out of deer skin and are some of the warmest, most comfortable gloves I have ever owned.
And I do like the fact that their gloves are made in the USA!
And I can tell you that I have owned a pair of pretty much everybody's heated gloves at one time.
Of course if they go belly-up, their warranty is not much good, but they appear to be in it for the long haul.
I had a small problem with one of mine and they fixed it and had it back to me in short order.
I had a major problem with another vendor's gloves, and it was like pulling teeth and never did get it satisfactorily resolved.
BTW, pretty much anybody's gloves will work with anybody's jacket liner as long as they use the coax connector.
You need to go for a snug fit on the jacket liner or the heat transfer will not be very good.
I have my heated gear connection running out of a fuseblock in the tailpiece, and the connection coming out by the left hand grip.
That's where my comm gear connection is so I wanted all connections to be at the same place.
You will either want a on/off switch or a heat controller also.

 

[sirepair]

Since you have the gloves, get a jacket with glove wiring built in (I like Warm-n-Safe, contact SteveST1300) and a DUAL controller. Why? Because you will likely want your gloves warmer than your jacket liner! A single controller will run both at the same level and you will find that turning it up to get your hands warm will have you cooking in the jacket!

 

[amorley]

I have used a Warm n’ Safe heated liner jacket under my Aerostich R3 lite suit along with their Touring Gloves. I have the Remote Heat Troller mounted with Velcro (and a safety lanyard) to the top of my brake fluid reservoir. Power to the heated jacket comes straight off the battery with a 20 amp fuse and the pigtail plugs into the jacket pigtail that I generally have coming out of the LHS pocket of the ‘stich. The gloves plug into the pre-wired lines in the jacket.

Highly recommend this solution. I have ridden in temperatures as low as 18 degF. I also have heated grips and seat on my BMW K1600GT.

 

[Uncle Phil]

And Symtec heated grips are pretty cheap and easy to install.
With heated gloves and heated grips, your hands will stay very toasty.

 

[dduelin]

I agree jacket rather than vest but grips AND gloves.

I always run the clothing hook up harness out from under the left front of the seat, between seat and tank or bodywork and use a dual controller clipped on the glove holder that is on the left chest of the Aerostich. From there lead the wires into the suit through the left pocket with the inside thingamagig for wire passage or thru the left hip vent.

 

[jfheilman]

Heated jacket liner, and heated grips and a neck gaiter. Also, under the jacket liner a close fitting garment so that the heat is easily transferred.

The neck gaiter is to keep the wind off your neck and all the large blood vessels there which will help keep you warm.

Also wear some long underwear under my jeans, there are various brands out there, Mine are fairly tight fitting.

Gloves, I have tired heated gloves and find that my finger tips were always cold so, they are not worth the money in my opinion.

My current gear is Warm N Safe as is my wife's.

The only issue with the current warm and safe controllers is that the are wireless. So, I have to find a place to put them that is safe from loss. When they were wired it was sort of easy to find a spot.

 

[SMSW]

Heated gear, like so many other accessories, is a very personal thing. I have a 90 watt W n Safe jacket that I love for cold weather (under my Stitch). I've even had it turned all the way up on a couple of occasions (not v. often - its marvelous). Now W n S is offering a 65 watt liner that might not provide all the heat I'd want. I can turn my jacket's heat down, but you cannot turn the 65 one up beyond 100%.

Similarly, my Oxford grips solve the hand problem for me - no need for heated gloves.

I put a powerlet on the left side just below the glove box. An adapter plugs into my jacket's cord (I do have an extension if I need it) and the heat troller on the dashboard controls the powerlet. A separate circuit under the fairing zip tied to the wiring harness gives me the option of using the powerlet on its own circuit in warmer months.

 

[The Cheese]

Buy the jacket. The wind would hit me in the arms more than the chest. So the vest would heat up my torso, but not my arms. Leaving me freezing still.

Which brand is a personal choice. Until you try a few on its hard to decide which you want. A ST event is a great way to see and try different brands. Warm an Safe gives STers a discount. Even without the discount I would buy my liner again. Waterproof Gen 4 waterproof, yellow. Love it.

I would suggest one change to your wiring plan. Direct to battery with the harness. Fused. If it's long enough route around the frame under the side cover. Then come out by the seat where it meets the tank shelter. I can take a pic if it helps. You could show the controller into your left pocket. I did it just like that for a year or two. Or if it has a later case clip it to the pocket or the chest glove thing. The pocket that's isn't a pocket. More like a pass through on left breast.

Heated grips are very nice to have. If I could only have one, if choose grips. Oxford sports fit the 11 well.

I have a one piece Roadcrafter. I would not think of sewing wires in it for gloves. Seems rude. But then I have a jacket to plug into. Aerostich makes a pass through cord. One end stays in the left pocket where the cord pass is, other stays on heated jacket. I used it till I found a 8“ sae cord. Cut down on time it took getting dressed. Beats fishing the jacket liner cord every time.

I don't think not using the gloves will help with longevity. Least I should say the potential reward does not seem worth it. You bought em to use. Use em. Just treat them with care and it should last you.

 

[jfheath]

I have had a Gerbing full jacket and still have a Keiss waistcoat.
I got no benefit from the arms being heated in the Gerbing. The heat just blew away. The Keiss maintained an excellent warmth, and works well. It has no heat controller and doesnt need one.
I wear a thin sleeved shirt under it and a fleece jacket over it. My arms feel warmer in this without heated sleeve than they do with the full jacket. But the Keiss is better made than my Gerbing was. Keeping the core warm seems to be enough.
We have heated gloves with us but rarely wear them. My heated grips are more convenient than attaching wires.

 

[ST Gui]

I'm not touring in winter, with day-long rides. I'm on the bike for 45min each way. I'm also not all that sensitive to the cold after a couple decades of working construction through New England winters. So I'm thinking vest....

Based on the above I'd say vest as well. I've used both. The vest was an Eclipse with just on On/Off switch. It got really warm - hot even and the only heat control was working the switch. Keeping my chest warm under a heavy jacket kept my arms and hands... fairly warm and for a couple three hours at a time.

However a jacket is a one time purchase for a lot of us. And it has the heat coverage advantage you mention. Should you want to vary from your above routine a vest might not be enough. But based on the above a vest would probably be plenty for you.

In case there's somebody who doesn't know – waistcoat is Brit for vest.

 

[Daboo]

I've been using heated gear for at least five years now, and ride virtually every day that it isn't snowing. Maybe this will help.
1. Wiring. If you haven't bought the controller, opt for the wireless controller. I've clipped my wired controller onto my jacket where there are some belt-like material and I can reach it without taking my eyes off the road. I decided to try a wireless controller last year and I really like it. In my case, I used Velcro to mount the wireless controller portion on the back of my GPS so only the knobs stick out. The main idea for me was to put it somewhere that I could use it without needing to take my eyes off the road. Also, I wanted it in a location that I could remove it when the weather warmed up and not have anything left showing.

I wired the bike wiring harness to bring the plug to the point at the rear of the tank and front of the seat. It works well. I can plug it in easily before getting on the bike. And the amount of "excess" wire is enough to both allow for the motion of getting on the bike, and standing up if needed. When it warms up, I just push the plug under the seat and all is tucked away nice and neat.

2. Vest or jacket liner? Jacket liner all the way. My Gerbing jacket liner is old and doesn't do a good job on the arms, but it is better than nothing. Newer jacket liners have improved the location of the heating wires. Plus, my jacket liner doesn't fit tight. The tighter the fit, the more the wires will come close to your body and do some good.

3. Gloves. Don't sweat the "wear" on the wires in the gloves. Use them. That's what you paid the $$$ for. What I've found is the right glove doesn't heat as well as the left glove. From what I understand, that's a function of DC current. The wiring harness is longer going to the right glove and loses some of the current? voltage? in the process and that results in less heat.

Where mine break is in the wiring harness itself, not in the glove. The wiring harness wires break a couple inches above the plug from being twisted repeatedly as I put my gloves on over the jacket sleeves and tuck the wires out of the way.

Chris

 

[dduelin]

I've been using heated gear for at least five years now, and ride virtually every day that it isn't snowing. Maybe this will help.
1. Wiring. If you haven't bought the controller, opt for the wireless controller. I've clipped my wired controller onto my jacket where there are some belt-like material and I can reach it without taking my eyes off the road. I decided to try a wireless controller last year and I really like it. In my case, I used Velcro to mount the wireless controller portion on the back of my GPS so only the knobs stick out. The main idea for me was to put it somewhere that I could use it without needing to take my eyes off the road. Also, I wanted it in a location that I could remove it when the weather warmed up and not have anything left showing.

I wired the bike wiring harness to bring the plug to the point at the rear of the tank and front of the seat. It works well. I can plug it in easily before getting on the bike. And the amount of "excess" wire is enough to both allow for the motion of getting on the bike, and standing up if needed. When it warms up, I just push the plug under the seat and all is tucked away nice and neat.

2. Vest or jacket liner? Jacket liner all the way. My Gerbing jacket liner is old and doesn't do a good job on the arms, but it is better than nothing. Newer jacket liners have improved the location of the heating wires. Plus, my jacket liner doesn't fit tight. The tighter the fit, the more the wires will come close to your body and do some good.

3. Gloves. Don't sweat the "wear" on the wires in the gloves. Use them. That's what you paid the $$$ for. What I've found is the right glove doesn't heat as well as the left glove. From what I understand, that's a function of DC current. The wiring harness is longer going to the right glove and loses some of the current? voltage? in the process and that results in less heat.

Where mine break is in the wiring harness itself, not in the glove. The wiring harness wires break a couple inches above the plug from being twisted repeatedly as I put my gloves on over the jacket sleeves and tuck the wires out of the way.

Chris

Chris says what I tried to say but was in too much of a hurry.

I'm still using my 15 year old wired dual controller. I mentioned that I clip it to the lower left chest of the Aerostitch and like Chris I can adjust jacket and gloves without looking. On my riding jackets I sew a small piece of 1" nylon webbing on the lower left chest to clip the controller onto when I'm wearing a jacket/pants combo and not the Aerostich.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I made a small 'bracket' that velcros to the top of the clutch cylinder for hanging my wired controllers.
Since the 'plug' is right there, it was easy.
It also keeps the controller 'out in the air' which is probably good for it.
Connection wires run from the controller to my jacket so I am 'tethered' for heat and wired audio at basically the same location.
If you tether in one place for heat and another place for audio, you will forget to unplug one or the other when you get off the bike ...

 

[rwthomas1]

41*F when I left the house today. Those heated gauntlets are the best! On the lowest setting my hands were comfortable all the way to work. I see the value of having the temperature control on the handlebar. Using the supplied basic heat control, there is no way and not enough slack to be messing with it while underway. I purchased a remote dual heat troller, in shipping transit now, from a forum member so that is taken care of. After dealing with the heating wires inside the Aerostich suit, I can see the value of a heated jacket liner with the integrated wiring. That is the next purchase. Thanks for the input, appreciated.

RT

 

[ST Gui]

I purchased a remote dual heat troller, in shipping transit now, from a forum member so that is taken care of. After dealing with the heating wires inside the Aerostich suit, I can see the value of a heated jacket liner with the integrated wiring.

That remote dual channel 'Troller is terrific. When I got my heated gear (Warm n Safe jacket/liner) I used some Scotch Industrial fastener material (looks like hook n loop but it isn't) and mounted it on the clutch reservoir. Very handy. I use one side for the jacket and the other for heated gloves. The gloves connect to the jacket and the jacket to the cable from the battery. Very comfy.

A member here cautioned me that on warm days that Scotch fastener can separate from the other half. But on a day that warm the box would be stowed.

 

[paulcb]

That remote dual channel 'Troller is terrific. When I got my heated gear (Warm n Safe jacket/liner) I used some Scotch Industrial fastener material (looks like hook n loop but it isn't) and mounted it on the clutch reservoir. Very handy. I use one side for the jacket and the other for heated gloves. The gloves connect to the jacket and the jacket to the cable from the battery. Very comfy.

A member here cautioned me that on warm days that Scotch fastener can separate from the other half. But on a day that warm the box would be stowed.

That's exactly how I run my heated gear. One thing I do is wrap the tether that comes with the troller around my clutch line. It's never come off the clutch MC in 100k miles, but if it does, I won't lose it. I only have the troller mounted for about 4-5 months out of the year. I pull the batteries to store it.

 

[dduelin]

I made a small 'bracket' that velcros to the top of the clutch cylinder for hanging my wired controllers.
Since the 'plug' is right there, it was easy.
It also keeps the controller 'out in the air' which is probably good for it.
Connection wires run from the controller to my jacket so I am 'tethered' for heat and wired audio at basically the same location.
If you tether in one place for heat and another place for audio, you will forget to unplug one or the other when you get off the bike ...

People still use wires for audio and heat?

 

[amorley]

A member here cautioned me that on warm days that Scotch fastener can separate from the other half. But on a day that warm the box would be stowed.

It can fall off. I loop the wrist strap around my clutch cable as a tether to prevent loosing the Heat-Troller