Heated Gear Power from Quartet Harness?

Sadlsor

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I'm going to install my Garmin XT in the 2-wire quartet harness connector, and before I run my Warm n Safe to the battery, I'm wondering whether I can power the WnS jacket liner and gloves (with a dual Heat Troller) from one of the other connectors there?
Should be a 9- and 4-pin, if I recall. One was originally for the factory Honda heated grips; could I wire a Hitachi connector to that one, ya think?
I may add lights later, and another USB charger outlet, but any further farkles will go to a separate fuse box, not installed at this time.
The XT gps will be easy enough... what are your thoughts on the gloves and jacket liner?
Battery, or q-harness? Connecting the WnS gear to the Honda harness will negate the need for a separate relay (which I'll add later to the fuse block), I'm thinking.
(I've looked through 8 or 10 ST1300 Articles on fuse blocks, the harness, electric clothes, and all, but didn't find anything to specifically answer this question.
Thanking y'all too very much.
 

ChucksKLRST

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I'm going to install my Garmin XT in the 2-wire quartet harness connector, and before I run my Warm n Safe to the battery, I'm wondering whether I can power the WnS jacket liner and gloves (with a dual Heat Troller) from one of the other connectors there?
Should be a 9- and 4-pin, if I recall. One was originally for the factory Honda heated grips; could I wire a Hitachi connector to that one, ya think?
I may add lights later, and another USB charger outlet, but any further farkles will go to a separate fuse box, not installed at this time.
The XT gps will be easy enough... what are your thoughts on the gloves and jacket liner?
Battery, or q-harness? Connecting the WnS gear to the Honda harness will negate the need for a separate relay (which I'll add later to the fuse block), I'm thinking.
(I've looked through 8 or 10 ST1300 Articles on fuse blocks, the harness, electric clothes, and all, but didn't find anything to specifically answer this question.
Thanking y'all too very much.
If I was doing it I would run a relay off of a switched source on the quartet harness and then my heated gear from the Battery / aux fuse box thru the relay.
 
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Sadlsor

Sadlsor

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Sorry, I'm not clear with that.
Sounds like this way, I get switched power from the quartet harness to a relay, AND power from the battery.
What did I miss here?
The fuse box will be for later projects, and I'll maybe move the WnS there. (But the manufacturer recommends the heated gear be run direct from the battery, and NOT through a fuss box. I'll sort that later.)
 
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I kept it simple.
I did a direct connection to the battery with a inline fused cable that has a DC connector that hangs out the vent over the glove box.
The heated vest has an inline switch and level controller so an extra relay and switch would be redundant.
I can also plug in a float charger to this DC connector since it is always hot.
The DC connector is the direct mate to the heated vest plug.
DCConnector.jpg
 

jfheath

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This might help @Sadlsor.

Post #6 of this thread. I took the info from the Uk circuit diagram for the ABS model, to find out how much power was spare on each connector. The USA. model wont be too different.


I never took notice of my own information though. I put in two 40A relays, connected them permanently to the battery via 30A cable and 30A fuse, and triggered them by voltage from the red and white connectors -red for accessories and ign (eg satnav, intercom); white for ign only (eg heated gear). I reckoned on about 20A through one relay and 10A through the other.

That saves running the return voltage through that seemingly very sensitive multiway ground connector.

But brief answer - there is at least one circuit there that will give you the 5-6A that you need for a heated jacket.
 
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Sorry, I'm not clear with that.
Sounds like this way, I get switched power from the quartet harness to a relay, AND power from the battery.
What did I miss here?
They're correctly suggesting that the quartet harness and the bike's wiring are not suitable to carry the current that heated gear requires. As with other added accessories, use the Honda wiring to control the heated gear's power via a relay that switches an added fused battery wire.

The fuse box will be for later projects, and I'll maybe move the WnS there. (But the manufacturer recommends the heated gear be run direct from the battery, and NOT through a fuss box. I'll sort that later.)
This is what we're saying. The clothing should be powered directly (through a fuse (or fusible link) and a relay) from the battery. The relay, which the Honda wiring and quartet harness can easily handle, is optional, as long as you remember to disconnect to preserve the battery.

Added: What I meant is that the bike's wiring can easily handle the relay's coil current.
 
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RobbieAG

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I have my GPS, heated grips and power input running to the quartet harness. My heated vest runs to a power block under the seat.
 
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Sadlsor

Sadlsor

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Thanks, I have a better grasp on this now.
The Zumo XT will safely go to the quartet harness unmodified for switched power, and for the time being I'll put the WnS direct to battery, and add a fusible link later.
Main goal is these 2 items for a safe and comfy trip to Knoxville for the trailer lid swap on Friday, to include a start expected to be just below freezing in the early morn.
Warmth and directionally is the bare minimum for now.
(I still can't seem to re-fold my paper maps while traveling on the interstate, while unfolding them is a breeze.)
I have already saved a bunch of info, including pinouts, for the q-harness.
Y'all are great!
 

STRider

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Let me offer this @Sadlsor . This is from my ST2 article. That's the quartet harness.

1673507621603.png


From it I power:

1) Garmin zumo XT

2) Koso Apollo heated grips

3) 3-port Quick Charge 3 USB outlet in the right fairing pocket.

1673506238303.png

and most recently,

4) ST2 Turn System.

With the exception of the ST2, all have been working fine for nearly two years.

However I run my Warm'n'Safe jacket directly from the battery. I figure I'm never going to leave it plugged in and heating unless I'm actually there, wearing it, seated on the bike and needing to be warmed!

I also think I've hit the tipping point for the electrical farkles. Any next addition will justify a fuseblock. either a Fuzeblock FZ-1 or an Eastern Beaver Powercenter 8. I am confident both are quality products. I like the idea of a more complete, compact design like the FZ-1, but Jim at EB does make some points about the superiority of their Powercenter 8's design choices. Fun, fun, something to keep me busy through the summer as I add my driving lights.

You'll be fine...
 
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I would agree with keeping the WnS load on a separate circuit from the quartet harness, which has a 15A fuse protecting it. There is obviously capacity on it beyond heated grips (say 5A) and the Zumo (probably about 2A max). The Honda wiring will most likely have some safety factor built in but I wouldn't care to put 20A through it continuously because the insulation is only plastic. Even the main switched feed from the accessory fuse box (the red-green wire) is the same 1mm² as all the rest of the harness.

On my quartet harness plugs respectively I have Oxford heated grips, a dual USB outlet*/12V cigar socket unit, and a second pair of USB sockets. The Powerlet socket on the dash is on a separate switched relay from the battery with 18g silicone insulated wires. I think I put a 15A fuse on it. If and when I feel the need for other accessories I'll put a separate fuse box in the tail (I actually have one, but I couldn't figure out a good way to keep the exposed common terminal insulated).

* a generic eBay thing that is probably not dissimilar to STRider's one.
 
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