Heated gloves

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@Larry Fine , just remember the connector as shown in your adapter photo 1 is always from source power. The covered pin on an SAE connector should also represent source power. That is so that any pin with power on it that may be unplugged is not exposed resulting in potential to short out against something like frame or you.
The reason I mention it is that the SAE ends of the adapters I have are not marked with polarity, so I'm not sure which pin or hole connects with the ID or OD of the coax plug and socket, and I haven't confirmed with a tester yet.

I don't know whether the Heat Demon controller is polarity-sensitive, but I err on the side of caution and presume it is.



Speaking of which, I know of someone who is selling a bunch of them (see post #29) for $20 shipped. Let me know if anyone wants the contact info.
 

Uncle Phil

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. I just don't like the WnS warranty that states that they won't cover heating element breakage under normal use after 2 yrs.
Don't worry - the gloves can break with 'normal' use says the feller that has had 3 different pair die … 9 months, 23 months, and a replacement pair DOA ;)
Not saying that happens to everybody (I hope not) but it sure happened to me.
 
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I currently have a question in to the Gerbing people about the operation of these units. They evidently have 2 default unlocked settings (25% and 50%) and 2 locked settings (75% and 100%). It is confusing how these settings work once unlocked. Unlocking is easy enough but do those settings revert to the locked state once power is removed. Instructions seem to imply they don't.
See: https://www.thevisorshop.com/images/emails/singlecontrollerinstructions.jpg?0.9446123339860137

No matter, I only really need those 4 settings and would use all of them at different times. 25% for near freezing (25F-35F). 50% for 15F-25F. 75% for 5F-15F. And 100% for lower.
LOWER???? :eek:
 

ST Gui

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On advice from several here I got the WnS dual wireless controller and it's 3M hook n Looped to my clutch reservoir cover. It uses coax connectors.

SAE connectors are designed to always keep 12V+ on the recessed pin. The exposed pin that plugs into it might be called positive but I don't care until it's got 12V+ on it. The exposed pin at the end of an SAE cable will be negative. Wires are usually either color coded to tell hot from gnd. When that's not done the 12V+ side may have ribs running down the length where the other side is smooth.

I ordered a couple SAE to COAX connectors from Amazon and they work fine with my WnS liner and H-D gloves (which I think are made by WnS).
 

rjs987

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That graphic is also contained in one of the links in my post. Still not totally clear if the locked settings return as locked when power is removed from the unit.

...
LOWER???? :eek:
That was +5F to +15F. But yes, I ride at lower temps than zeroF. My personal lowest is -15.7F some years ago. Though I don't think I'll be riding that cold in the future as I get older and more sensitive to cold temps. Did ride at -2F last month.

Do place a link here if available or send me a PM if no link available for that controller you mention in post 29. Just need a single controller and not a dual. All coax connectors have the inner most pin or socket as positive (+12v dc) and the outer shell or barrel is ground. So, yes, that controller is polarity sensitive since the inner workings of the controller depend on correct polarity. What you plug into (gloves, socks, vest) may not matter... then again maybe it does.
 
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That graphic is also contained in one of the links in my post. Still not totally clear if the locked settings return as locked when power is removed from the unit.
Seems clear to me: "This is a one-time action only and is not reversible. Once unlocked, these outputs will become a permanent setting option on the controller." Permanent.

All coax connectors have the inner most pin or socket as positive (+12v dc) and the outer shell or barrel is ground. So, yes, that controller is polarity sensitive since the inner workings of the controller depend on correct polarity.
Let's suppose I were to plug the two coax adapters together; one end of the SAE connectors will have an exposed positive terminal.

A battery charger with an SAE connector has an exposed positive terminal. Or no risk since there's nothing in the negative terminal?
 

rjs987

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It does matter if the connector is the last in line FROM the battery/source power.
Consider this: You have a SAE connector/pigtail from the battery and a SAE connector TO your battery tender. The connector from the battery, if connected correctly, has the positive terminal covered and encased and the negative pin is exposed. This is safe. The connector to your battery tender is the opposite in order to fit the former pigtail connector so the positive pin, which does not yet have any power on it since it is not yet connected, is the exposed pin. When you connect these two SAE connectors the battery tender positive exposed pin goes into the positive covered powered pin. Now all pins are covered and it is still safe since all pins that matter are covered.

Just make sure when you connect the coax/SAE cords that the one closer to the battery or power (when unplugged) has the positive pin covered and negative pin uncovered.

Your last sentence is correct because, per safety requirements and safe practices, you should not ever have your battery charger plugged into an outlet or otherwise have power applied to it until AFTER you connect to the battery pigtail so no power is ever on an exposed pin. Correct order of connection is to plug in the charger to the battery pigtail first and then plug the charger into the outlet or power supply to charge the battery. If there is an on/off switch on your charger that would be turned on last. Reverse the procedure to disconnect.
 
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Do place a link here if available or send me a PM if no link available for that controller you mention in post 29. Just need a single controller and not a dual.
I'm just waiting for a response that he's okay with it being broadcast, although I can't imagine why he would object.
 

SteveST1300

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Well all keep in mind you can get a 15% discount on warm n safe products. And they are much better quality than Gerbing if you decide to go with warm n safe do not buy from the warming store the discount will not apply there. The coupon code for warm n safe is Steve
 
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Well all keep in mind you can get a 15% discount on warm n safe products. And they are much better quality than Gerbing if you decide to go with warm n safe do not buy from the warming store the discount will not apply there. The coupon code for warm n safe is Steve
Link, please.
 

paulcb

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rjs987

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By the way, my Gerbing gloves came with a Y-cord that has the same gender plug on all three ends.

Mine also came with that cord originally and I am still using it today. I had bought a coiled Y-cord thinking I wouldn't need to run it through my jacket sleeves and the coils would keep it from getting in the way. The coiled cord didn't last very long so I returned to this original cord and it just keeps on going. My original gloves keep on working as well so I don't need to replace those. Bought them originally in early 2007. I figure 13 years is rather good for this kind of gear. There was a short time several years ago when I thought a heat wire in one glove stopped working but turned out it just had moved out of place and I was able to massage it back and all is good since.

I'll look into the HeatDemon. Thanks for the link. I'll also consider the Warm-n-Safe with discount. I have read many comments here recommending WnS but I also have read many comments elsewhere (don't currently have references) about many failures with their controllers, but those may be the Chinese knockoffs.
 

SteveST1300

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Larry here is a link to the Warm N safe

 
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If it was covered already, I missed it. How well do the 7.4V heated gloves compare for heat output with the 12V heated gloves?

Chris
 

T_C

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I just don't like the WnS warranty that states that they won't cover heating element breakage under normal use after 2 yrs.
Huh? Is this something new?? WnS always had a lifetime warranty on the heating elements.
 
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Well all keep in mind you can get a 15% discount on warm n safe products. And they are much better quality than Gerbing if you decide to go with warm n safe do not buy from the warming store the discount will not apply there. The coupon code for warm n safe is Steve

I talked to them a few days ago he told me 20 percent discount for us here. That is when he clarified the terms of warranty. Lifetime is on manufactures defects...it says this on the website and that is why I asked him to clarify the meaning.
 
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Just talked to Joanne from Gordon's heated gear on the phone and really a nice lady. I'm going to take measurements and then send them in and they'll give me a 15% discount on the price and then I will order the remote control from warm and safe. Joanne did not know whether it would work with her gear but going by what you said Phil I think it will and they do have a return policy I believe.
 
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