Heated Grips Glue

[FlexyRacer]

Panooche and I will be installing our Hondaline Heated Grips. I recently completed much research re: Hondaline Bond A heated grip glue and a suitable replacement. The David Silver site in England now states regular Honda Grip Glue is suitable for heated grips (on the Honda grip glue page). I found stuff called "Lube and Glue" on the Internet which is alcohol based and claimed to be suitable for heated grips and makes installation easier due to the lube quality. That's what we'll try. Something must be up for Honda to make Bond A unavailable in the USA when it used to be more common here. Honda just doesn't seem to address this issue to dealers and customers with any clarity. That can be frustrating.

 

[HaChayalBoded]

I'm installing the Symtec with the Warm-n-safe troller this weekend. Is the inner tube a confirmed test? I thought Symtec elements compensate for plastic/metal sides.

And let me get this right... hairspray will work as a high-temp epoxy for the grips? Why on earth would someone spray this on their head?????

Not sure what you mean by a comfirmed test. I do it on all bikes. It's particularly helpful on a cruiser with 1" diameter 1\4" thick chrome plated STEEL bars. Oh, and on most cruiser, the grips themselves are nearly 2" diameter, so the heat needs to travel through half an inch of grip to get to you. So yes its tested and works great. This is probably not needed for thin rubber or silicone grips over 7\8" bars however. But it won't hurt.

As for the spray, it works, heck, if you have bar ends on your bike, you don't even have to worry about the grip coming off. I've put some elements on and held them in place with lectrical tape (they were reused so no longer sticky) and slowly slid the grip on while removing the tape along the way. Essentially not using any glue at all. Never a problem.

The only issue I have ever had, is on my concours, when the left grip gets very hot (for some reason the elements on this bike get SUPER hot) and I grip tightly then after a ride I notice that the outside of the grips have ever so slightly twisted. But I am using the superthin and supersoft progrip model umm, 712? I believe. These grips are paperthin. This never happened with any other grips and I believe the only reason it IS happening is because I used WD40 to get the grips on and WD40 doesn't really resolve, it gets slippery everytime the heat is switched on, combined with using WD40.

 

[EASt]

Just received a replacement right heated grip today. Thank you Brian!!!! :bow1:

The old OEM heated grip is glued on. I need to get it off.

1. What's the best way?
   
2. Would an airhose break the epoxy? Do I need to cut and scrape?
   
3. Lastly, to put the new heated grip on (throttle grip), should I use epoxy again?

 

[STranger]

Take the bar end off and stick a air nozzle in the edge of the grip and pulse the air. Be cafeful a bout adding too much air...I have blown grips up then it's messy to clean up. While you pulse air grab the grip pull and twist until it comes off. If it doesn't slice the grip long way and take a pair of needle nose grab a piece of rubber and roll the grip around the nose of the pliers until it all comes off.

Clean all the grip glue off the throttle sleeve

Spray cheap hairspray down the new grip and place in the desired spot. You don't need to use a lot of spray nor spray the tube it just takes longer to dry.
Let it dry overnight. Make sure it's holding wire it up and go ride. Should only take a few minutes unless there is a bunch of epoxy then grip remove and clean might take some time.

 

[EASt]

Take the bar end off and stick a air nozzle in the edge of the grip and pulse the air. Be cafeful a bout adding too much air...I have blown grips up then it's messy to clean up. While you pulse air grab the grip pull and twist until it comes off. If it doesn't slice the grip long way and take a pair of needle nose grab a piece of rubber and roll the grip around the nose of the pliers until it all comes off.

Clean all the grip glue off the throttle sleeve

Spray cheap hairspray down the new grip and place in the desired spot. You don't need to use a lot of spray nor spray the tube it just takes longer to dry.
Let it dry overnight. Make sure it's holding wire it up and go ride. Should only take a few minutes unless there is a bunch of epoxy then grip remove and clean might take some time.

Thanks. Hope the air breaks the epoxy.

 

[sennister]

Just received a replacement right heated grip today. Thank you Brian!!!! :bow1:

The old OEM heated grip is glued on. I need to get it off.

1. What's the best way?
   
2. Would an airhose break the epoxy? Do I need to cut and scrape?
   
3. Lastly, to put the new heated grip on (throttle grip), should I use epoxy again?

If it is dead, you might as well cut and scrape. It isn't like you are trying to save it for future use. Maybe try the air compressor, it probably won't work so don't waste a ton of time doing that.

Once it is time to put the new one on, just use hair spray. The cheaper the better. That is what I have been using for years and never had an issue.

 

[EASt]

If it is dead, you might as well cut and scrape. It isn't like you are trying to save it for future use. Maybe try the air compressor, it probably won't work so don't waste a ton of time doing that.

You, sir, were correct!

The air compressor has no value in removing OEM grips as they are actually three layers. Layer 1 (outtermost) is the rubber grip. Layer 2 (middle) is the heating elements. Layer 3 (inner) is a plastic sleeve which the outter layer actually surrounds completely. This is the part that makes the compressor useless.

The only way to remove this grip was to slice and scrape. The rubber can be sliced and pulled away from the plastic sleeve, which then has a seam which splits in two quite easily.



Fortunately, the entire removal took less than 10 minutes. Furthermore the material used for the throttle tube is such that the old adhesive comes off with nothing more than a fingernail, which makes me wonder why adhesive is recommended at all. :nuts1:

 

[sennister]

You, sir, were correct!

The air compressor has no value in removing OEM grips as they are actually three layers. Layer 1 (outtermost) is the rubber grip. Layer 2 (middle) is the heating elements. Layer 3 (inner) is a plastic sleeve which the outter layer actually surrounds completely. This is the part that makes the compressor useless.

The only way to remove this grip was to slice and scrape. The rubber can be sliced and pulled away from the plastic sleeve, which then has a seam which splits in two quite easily.



Fortunately, the entire removal took less than 10 minutes. Furthermore the material used for the throttle tube is such that the old adhesive comes off with nothing more than a fingernail, which makes me wonder why adhesive is recommended at all. :nuts1:

Sweet, do I get a slice of pie.

 

[EASt]

Sweet, do I get a slice of pie.

Good grief, do you know how much pie I owe to people on this board??

You, Rich R, Stinner, LawmanUK, Curt, Bones, everyone who's nailed a deer, and so on...

 

[st1300r]

Glad it's off.
Did the autopsy show what failed in the grip?

 

[EASt]

Glad it's off.
Did the autopsy show what failed in the grip?

Wires from plug to grip are just fine. Beyond that it's nothing obvious.

I had thought, for a moment, that the Kaoko throttle lock may have led to a problem such as crimping the elements, but they ride above the plastic sleeve, and float below the rubber one. Also, they halt about .5 inch from the outside edge of the grip, so I've sort of discounted it. I suppose it's still possible.

Beyond this, there's nothing plainly observed. I'm keeping the cut up piece (which will surely have breaks caused by the removal process), to examine later.