Tom, sounds like you have the knowledge and experience to help us all out. I'm not even sure I could find the info for that UK site.
Help out an unmet friend and write something up. I'll order up a couple dozen diaphragms and have'em on hand for future farkling (proabably end up using most of'em myself.
)
Awaiting order info and the replacement trick.
Re: Carb Diaphrams. Replace one or all?
Here is the reply from England. I think it sounds like a good way to go but for now because of time constraint I just ordered one from Honda. I am not worried about failure of another while on a trip. I have been riding it all over with the hic up syndrome and it never caused any major problems. If it happens again though I think this route woud be a good way to go.
We take payment at https://
www.PAYPAL.com
We also take all major Credit / Debit Cards [Visa/Mastercard/Amex/Solo/Maestro]
Don't know the EXCHANGE RATE?
Check it out at
http://www.XE.com/ucc
NRP Carbs and Diaphragms
Unit 2,
Station Approach,
Victoria Station,
Manchester,
ENGLAND,
M3-1NY
Tel/Fax: +44 (0)161 832 8646
Out of hours answerphone
Hi Thomas ,
Thank you for your enquiry Re: ST1100 diaphragms
Yes we have diaphragms in stock for your model, we now make these in
completely synthetic Viton rubber, completely inert and resilient to modern
fuel containing 10% and more alcohol [Ethanol].
Our material is certainly as good as, if not better than original Honda
The Viton material is slightly denser than OEM, and we have reduced the thickness marinally
We normally supply diaphragms re-fitted to your original slides [so you
would send your slides over to us]
That is the ?fitted? price listed, this service is a tried and tested
method we have used for 15 years. All original rings re-used, and the
finish is exactly as original.
GB ?34.00 each X 4 = ?136.00 Priority return Airmail GB ?10.00= ?146.00
Just remove needle from base of slide and send them to us
WRAP SLIDES INDIVIDUALLY TO AVOID DAMAGE TO EACH OTHER
Turaround would be 2-4 days from receipt
If you need other parts please advise
Float bowl seal GB ?6.00 each
Needle valve and seat GB ?10.00
Air cut-off diaphragm [on side of carb] GB?12.00 each with spring/o-ring
We are increasingly being asked to supply loose diaphragms.
If you feel this option is for you, it would save some time/cost
Dis-assembly of the slide is NOT necassary [or recommended]
If you want loose diaphragms we can supply these at -15% [self-fit discount]
So, GB ?34.00 -15% = ?28.90 X 4 = ?115.60
Priority Trackable Airmail GB ?8.50 Total GB?124.10
I can send you fitting hints/tips, it is not too difficult
Dis-assembly of the slides is not necassary
It re-fits back in between the plastic rings like the original
Please advise which offer you would like to take
I can send you a Paypal payment request if you wish
Credit cards also no problem
Regards
Andy
PS. GB?1.0 = USD$1.55 approx
Loose diaphragms are shipped within 48 hrs of payment
Replacement is as follows. Wish I had taken pictures as I did it but I will try and paint a good one.
1, Be patient. It is the key to success. I did the first one alright and then thought I could go fast and broke one. I was blessed to have a spare slider.
2. The US carb slider is made of some sort of plastic which I think is phenolic resin. The diaphragm slips over the top and rest on a ring molded into the body of the slider. Then a ring of the same material is glue and pressed on completing the assembly.
Our job is to remove the ring with out damaging it, remove the old diaphragm , install the new one and re-install the old ring. If you have any extra sliders available,GOOD!
3. Now to begin. Remove the needle assembly from the slider. You want to be able to set the slider on a flat surface. As you look down on the top of the slider you will notice a seam around the top edge between the slider body and ring that holds the diaphragm on.
Look closely. You will need a hammer with a flat face, a razor knife with a new blade and you should wear a good pair of work gloves on the hand you hold the slider with, just in case you slip.
4. The goal is to create a cut around the seam that will act like a expansion or control joint in concrete. You will understand better in a moment, but we want this area to be weaken so that the ring breaks loose cleanly with out breaking so that we can reuse it.
5, Now holding the slider with one hand, take the razor knife with the blade extended only to the first notch if so equipped and scribe a line between the slider and ring working in a circle. The first pass just be accurate to make a grove for the following cuts.
Do this about 3 or 4 times cutting a little deeper each time. I would say the goal is to go down about 1/3 the thickness of the ring. Be careful and work slow.
6. Now set the slider on a flat surface. The object now is to break the bond between the slider body and the ring. You will use the hammer to do this, but with great finesse. The object is to persuade it to crack loose at the seam, not break the ring. So align the
flat face of the hammer with the top surface of the ring. Now tilt it a little out ward so that you are not striking the top of the slider but just the top of the ring. Not to much. We don't want to be striking the outer edge of the ring only. The object is to put the
pressure on the joint so that it breaks loose. Slowly start tapping the ring around the parameter moving in small increments be patient here. No hurry. You creating resonance and pressure. Wait for it. A little pop or snap or movement.
7. Now with a flat screw driver or kitchen knife go between the diaphragm and ring and gently working around the ring prying up it should come off easily.
The process really will only take a few minutes on each one and actually went quite well.
8. Now after cleaning up the the area where the diaphragm goes, slip on the new one. I actually don't think there is any position or orintation that is critical for the diaphragm but if you want you could mark everything before you started and the install it all in the same relation to the slider.
9. Take the ring and apply glue (I used Locktite super glue for plastic ) on the edge that mates with the slider wall. Position the ring on the tube and press evenly back onto the slider. I used a large socket that matched the circumference for this. Then I tapped the socket with the hammer
gently to seat the ring and held it for the prescribe time on the glue instructions.
I have had them in use for about 8,000 mile and they work great.
By the way, if you are having a hard time re-installing the carbs on the bike as a lot of members seem to, there is a really easy method that takes very little energy.
1. Use the moly grease that is for the rear wheel splines and put a thin coat on the outside of the carb tubes and inside of the boot.
2. line up the left side tubes with the boots after setting the carbs in. Press them in. They will slide in easily.
3. Starting with the right side rear boot as you look at it from the right side you will see it is slightly misaligned, Take a large flat screw driver and just as you wou pry a bike tire on to the rim, gently pry the rubber boot to the outside of the
bike while pressing against the carb tube prying to the inside of the bike. This is just using the tip of the screw driver and the carb will move. press down as it aligns and it will slip in easily.
4. Do the same to the front right. Check to make sure they are all seeat good then tighten the screws and voila....done, easy.
This is done with faily new boots which are soft. If you have old hard boots they should be replaced anyway.
oPoST1: Thomas
