Hose Clamp Access

[Rob20111]

Can someone tell me if it's possible to access some or all of the upper coolant hose clamps buy pulling back the heat mat, or do the throttle bodies need to be removed?
Had a small leak the other morning when the weather changed, and the temp dropped substantially. Removed the right side plastics and found the coolant coming from the square hole on the water pump cover. Apparently that hole is the drain for fluids that collect in the V at the top of the motor. So it's likely a hose clamp there needs tightening.

 

[Igofar]

You do NOT need to remove the throttle bodies to tighten any of the coolant hose clamps, nor would I advise it.
Simply remove the radiator (3) bolts, one cross brace (2) bolts and with a couple simple hand tools, 14 inch 1/4 inch drive extension, 1/4 inch drive ratchet, a 6mm swivel socket, a long panel 6mm box end wrench, and an 8mm socket, you should be able to reach and tighten all the loose clamps.
A word of caution, be very careful, and do not over tighten the clamps on the radiator pipes, or you'll distort them and they will leak worse than what you have now.
I would suggest cleaning the pipes on the T-stat housing, before you snug them down again, or you'll just be risking more leaks sooner rather than later.
I would also replace the T-stat, T-stat O-ring, and the Water Pump Cover O-ring while your at it.

 

[Rob20111]

You do NOT need to remove the throttle bodies to tighten any of the coolant hose clamps, nor would I advise it.
Simply remove the radiator (3) bolts, one cross brace (2) bolts and with a couple simple hand tools, 14 inch 1/4 inch drive extension, 1/4 inch drive ratchet, a 6mm swivel socket, a long panel 6mm box end wrench, and an 8mm socket, you should be able to reach and tighten all the loose clamps.
A word of caution, be very careful, and do not over tighten the clamps on the radiator pipes, or you'll distort them and they will leak worse than what you have now.
I would suggest cleaning the pipes on the T-stat housing, before you snug them down again, or you'll just be risking more leaks sooner rather than later.
I would also replace the T-stat, T-stat O-ring, and the Water Pump Cover O-ring while your at it.

The bike only has 6500 miles on it, so it might be overkill to do more than just checking the clamps at this point.
Since the fluid appears to be coming from the V area at the top of the engine, this is where I suspect the offending hose is located.
So with the radiator off you're saying I can reach all the clamps on those upper hoses? I thought I would need to access from the top after removing the air box.

 

[Rob20111]

Found a pretty good article here. Thanks for the input.

ST1300 coolant leak

ST1300 coolant leak

ozstoc.com

 

[CYYJ]

The bike only has 6500 miles on it, so it might be overkill to do more than just checking the clamps at this point.

Rob:

Your bike - a 1994 ST 1100 - is over 25 years old! Rubber parts perish with time. If you are going to go in there, I suggest you plan on doing some MAJOR preventative maintenance and replacing all the hoses. The last thing you want is to have an almost 30 year old coolant hose blow out when you are away from home - you won't be able to repair that on the road, and it will cost you more to get the bike shipped home that it would cost you to replace all the hoses.

In this case, mileage really doesn't matter - it's time in service that matters.

If your leak is only a small one (drops), you might want to consider putting off this big project until wintertime. I did the same work (replacing all hoses, thermostat, O-rings, etc.) on my 2012 ST 1300 a couple of winters ago, and although it was not a difficult job to do, it took a lot of time.

One thing that confuses me about your post: You mention 'throttle bodies' and a 'square hole', but according to your signature and profile data the bike is a ST 1100, they have carburetors and I don't think they have a 'square hole' for coolant draining. Can you confirm your year and model of motorcycle?

Michael

 

[Igofar]

His info listed an ST1100, however, his picture shows an ST1300.
I suspect he just purchased a new to him bike.

 

[Rob20111]

Igofar nailed it. I did recently upgrade to a 2004 ST1300. I changed the avatar, but can’t seem to find where to change the model info.
Can you point me in the right direction?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

If you do not want to anything more than snug up the hose clamps, I was able to access them without removing the radiator. In addition to the 1/4" drive tools that have been mentioned, I also used a 1/4" drive flex shaft to get at one of the clamps at least. It took a lot of jockeying in weird positions, and it may come down to where the clamp fastener head ended up when it was installed at the factory, but I was able to get at all of them.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Can you point me in the right direction?

Click on your username on the top right-hand of the screen. Then click on account details. Scroll down to the box where it states Bike: What bike is your main bike?

 

[Rob20111]

I’m viewing on a mobile. I don’t see a user name as you described.

 

[Rob20111]

If you do not want to anything more than snug up the hose clamps, I was able to access them without removing the radiator. In addition to the 1/4" drive tools that have been mentioned, I also used a 1/4" drive flex shaft to get at one of the clamps at least. It took a lot of jockeying in weird positions, and it may come down to where the clamp fastener head ended up when it was installed at the factory, but I was able to get at all of them.

From the top with the air box removed? Or somewhere else?

 

[paulcb]

I’m viewing on a mobile. I don’t see a user name as you described.

Click your avatar at the top...

 

[Rob20111]

I think I got it. Thanks all.

 

[Rob20111]

Igofar nailed it. I did recently upgrade to a 2004 ST1300. I changed the avatar, but can’t seem to find where to change the model info.
Can you point me in the right direction?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

From the top with the air box removed? Or somewhere else?

I removed the air box and did it using a combination of from above and from the front, using the tools that I mentioned and in some cases a mirror to see in there. I did not remove the radiator.

 

[dduelin]

I know the OP has solved his need but for others reading this thread it's very simple to remove the radiator and by doing so the 5 hoses to the thermostat housing are right in front of you and the two water joints to the cylinder heads are a little further back. A flexible 6mm nut driver and/or a 1/4" rachet with a couple of long extensions will be handy. The only hose clamps not accessible are on the oil cooler on the back of the engine and they tend not to leak anyway.

I have a PDF tutorial for a coolant change and thermostat change that shows step by step what to do in order to access the clamps that tend to weep, seep, and leak and all ST1300s eventually do this. By premptively snugging the clamps the leaks that corrode the aluminum thermostat housing inlet/outlets and the lower engine block inlet are prevented.

The clamps need just a snug up with perhaps one turn on the screw worm, not over tightening them. If you want the tutorial drop me a PM with an email address.

 

[Rob20111]

I know the OP has solved his need but for others reading this thread it's very simple to remove the radiator and by doing so the 5 hoses to the thermostat housing are right in front of you and the two water joints to the cylinder heads are a little further back. A flexible 6mm nut driver and/or a 1/4" rachet with a couple of long extensions will be handy. The only hose clamps not accessible are on the oil cooler on the back of the engine and they tend not to leak anyway.

I have a PDF tutorial for a coolant change and thermostat change that shows step by step what to do in order to access the clamps that tend to weep, seep, and leak and all ST1300s eventually do this. By premptively snugging the clamps the leaks that corrode the aluminum thermostat housing inlet/outlets and the lower engine block inlet are prevented.

The clamps need just a snug up with perhaps one turn on the screw worm, not over tightening them. If you want the tutorial drop me a PM with an email address.

Do the body panels need to be removed before dropping the radiator? This is what I am trying to avoid as it is time consuming and sometimes frustrating.

 

[dduelin]

Do the body panels need to be removed before dropping the radiator? This is what I am trying to avoid as it is time consuming and sometimes frustrating.

Yes, the inner lower and both middle cowls have to be removed. Anyone serious about doing their own work will have to overcome this reluctance.

 

[Sadlsor]

Yes, the inner lower and both middle cowls have to be removed. Anyone serious about doing their own work will have to overcome this reluctance.

Let's face it... these bikes are literally covered in plastics.
Much has been posted here, and is still available, about how different STers deal with this.
The good news (at least in my opinion) is that removing and replacing plastics is not nearly as challenging as the actual work involved with, say, replacing a thermostat or syncing throttle bodies, to name but a couple.
As in most wrenching endeavors, time, attention to detail, and PATIENCE are your friends. Everyone here who has experience, started at the same place as you and I.
Namely, never having done it on this bike before.

 

[Oldbikefixr]

Let's face it... these bikes are literally covered in plastics.
Much has been posted here, and is still available, about how different STers deal with this.
The good news (at least in my opinion) is that removing and replacing plastics is not nearly as challenging as the actual work involved with, say, replacing a thermostat or syncing throttle bodies, to name but a couple.
As in most wrenching endeavors, time, attention to detail, and PATIENCE are your friends. Everyone here who has experience, started at the same place as you and I.
Namely, never having done it on this bike before.

Absolutely.
Before you commit to any fully faired bike....you have to look under her skirt.
years back, I went to look at a 'restored' 1964 Mercedes. Excellent see-yourself paint, brand new interior. Popped open the hood and was met with corrosion, what appeared to be original hoses, and the battery support was rotted away...battery suspended by the cables.
All manner of tales hide in the dark. Dirt, oil, water, cracks....all are indications you should pass.