Hose Clamps/Clips

[Mr.E]

Is it any real surprise when I see that checking the cooling system hoses for leaks is one of the top issues when routine monitoring and also looking to buy an ST?

The OE clamps/hose clips are so narrow they are bound to cut into the soft rubber hoses, so I'm now replacing all the clips with meaty Jubilee's that are double the width.

 

[gmtech94]

Why replace ,they will only cut into the hose if overtightened . these clamps need to be snug not cranked down tight ,that causes other problems like deforming pipes .

 

[Mr.E]

It might be the previous owner(s) or even Grantham Honda Dealership did these pipe clips murder tight and I'm the one that's found this potential overtightening???

I'll never know but at least the risk of the soft rubber pipes ripping apart under the clips when out riding will be greatly reduced now.

Spreading the load/grip over a wider area will only help future-proof the cooling system.

 

[SMSW]

Drips and small leaks are a frequent issue on these bikes. You are not the first to use aftermarket clamps. In fact, there are several extensive discussions on this very subject. Gates clamps - both constant tension and heat shrink variety have been used and found to be a long lasting solution to the oem clamps and their propensity to leak over time.
I tried some of the constant tension type and found they had to be positioned carefully to avoid physical interference with each other or the frame or fairing. The spring at the tightening point is quite large, so be aware of this when using them.

In the blue band atop this page, go to Forums >ST Related> ST1300 then look at the subforums Leaks and Thermostat. Lots of threads on this subject. You can also do a search - top right Search function, type in key words like hose clamps, gates hose clamps, etc.

 

[dduelin]

One that is oversized, too big of starting diameter, and without the saddle of the OEM is almost guaranteed to egg-shape the flimsy radiator outlet and inlet. If that's doesn't make you stop and think about the the wisdom of going "big" consider that in the world of hose clamps those with narrower bands tightened with the X force on the gear generate greater clamping (sealing) force than a clamp with a wider band tightened to the same force. To generate the same sealing force as the narrower band you must tighten the wider one more. Add in the band perforations of the pictured clamp and you get a clamp more likely to damage the hose and radiator and more likely to leak over time.

People sometimes talk about the "final solution clamp" but don't talk about the time or mileage on the bike when they get rid of it or forgot about it over in a dusty corner of the garage. Very few riders put a lot of miles on a bike and there's not much comparison of changing out clamps over miles or time vs simply giving the clamps a little attention at the time of a major service. They get rid of the bike with few miles on it.

Just check the clamps when you have the fairing off for valve checks or other maintenance. It's cheap and takes a few seconds. A half turn or so snugs the OEM clamps for another 30 to 60,000 miles. And replace the O-ring in the thermostat housing.

 

[core-aggie]

One that is oversized, too big of starting diameter, and without the saddle of the OEM is almost guaranteed to egg-shape the flimsy radiator outlet and inlet. If that's doesn't make you stop and think about the the wisdom of going "big" consider that in the world of hose clamps those with narrower bands tightened with the X force on the gear generate greater clamping (sealing) force than a clamp with a wider band tightened to the same force.
[ snipped ]
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Well said ... and I agree.

After reading your reply, I was curious about Mercedes' "philosophy" concerning hose clamps, so went out to the garage.

I was shocked to discover they don't use traditional hose clamps of any type - see photo - that's the upper radiator hose connection on the engine side. All hoses are like this.

I assume we pull up on that ring slightly, then pull the hose out.

Where there are very small diameter hoses, they use constant tension style.
.

.

 

[ASPC]

Is it any real surprise when I see that checking the cooling system hoses for leaks is one of the top issues when routine monitoring and also looking to buy an ST?

The OE clamps/hose clips are so narrow they are bound to cut into the soft rubber hoses, so I'm now replacing all the clips with meaty Jubilee's that are double the width.

Old hoses can split giving the appearance of cutting due to clamps, they don’t actually get cut. I like the wide clamp, it will dissipate pressure on the pipe and the fitting.

 

[Mr.E]

One that is oversized, too big of starting diameter, and without the saddle of the OEM is almost guaranteed to egg-shape the flimsy radiator outlet and inlet.

Just check the clamps when you have the fairing off for valve checks or other maintenance. It's cheap and takes a few seconds. A half turn or so snugs the OEM clamps for another 30 to 60,000 miles. And replace the O-ring in the thermostat housing.

Agreed, that Jubilee in the photo was a spare just to demonstrate the width difference and the "Cheese wire" effect the narrow OE has on the hose.

Funny you mention the Thermostat, that was on my list of checks and getting that out to measure in hot water went pear shaped with corroded and a snapped bolt
All theses M8 Hex bolts (including the ring of bolts around the water pump housing) will be replaced with St/St M6 Allen bolts.

This engine area does seem prone to road crap and corrosion so forward planning and action is required.

Happy days

 

[tnbill]

St/st in aluminum will need a corrosion prevention such as antisize.

 

[Chris09]

The wider clamps [and to a lesser extent the original narrow ones] also have a wider flat spot on the inside. From now on I'm just going to call them what they really are; D clamps. When I replaced my thermostat to radiator hose I used both of the original D clamps staggered 180 degrees at the housing and found a couple narrow clamps at princess auto to do the same at the radiator connection. This is [to the best of my knowledge] the top tank connector. It's round and maintains some range of tension over temperature variations [like the hose clamp on my near thirty year old dodge thermostat housing to radiator that has never leaked or been removed].
I'll bet Honda never even considered using anything else for that one.

 

[Mr.E]

Bill: I'm a step ahead of you.

Chris: Bit by bit we're all helping to make a fantastic bike even better.
(I must return to Port Moody some time...)

 

[Al st1100]

There are a couple of things happening. The hoses expand when under pressure, hundreds of times over the years could give the impression that they are over tightened. The corrosion under the hose will also expand the hose. Some one may have tightened the hose clamp seeing a bit of seepage from the corrosion taking the easy way out. Finally the hose is old, replace it.

 

[Chris09]

Took a great pic from the roof of a tower on Capilano Road in Port Moody couple weeks ago. I think Fantastic is a fair assessment of the ST, no complaints at all. You're a ways from Port Moody by the look of your location, here's a pic I snapped working on a make up air unit on Capilano Road couple weeks ago, always getting busier but still amazing place to ride to around the edge of the inlet.

 

[Mr.E]

Unsure if I'm missing something very important here and maybe someone has already picked it up, but this exhaust pipe is too damn close to the lower right side Radiator Hose for my liking - HOT! HOT! HOT!
An exhaust wrap flap should make an ideal heat shield barrier and should keep some of the heat away from that (already hot) hose.
Bike is off the road at present so unable to report on effects until April time...

 

[Andrew Shadow]

In addition to deflecting exhaust pipe heat away from the coolant hose, that deflector will also reduce the air flow around that section of the coolant hose and that section of the exhaust pipe. When the motorcycle is in motion, the question becomes;
Is the amount of heat being deflected away from the coolant hose greater or less than the amount of heat that the exhaust pipe is radiating to the hose when the air flow is not being restricted? I'd be curious to know which it is.

 

[Mr.E]

Good points raised there, having sat down next to the bike earlier today with my good friend Jack (Daniels with apple juice) we chewed the cud and he said don't wrap either of the pipes, just place a screen between the two!
However, Plan B could be curl the wrap up underneath the Radiator pipe being certain to maintain an air gap all round.
Very clever bloke JD!

 

[ASPC]

It seems that you guys don’t know hose clamps are available in all diameters and various widths. The width of the clamp is nothing to do with its diameter. And there are no flat spots if the correct type of clamps are used, some have flat spots and some don’t depending on the type used. I’ll probably get attacked for this but I’m getting used to it. There is so much nonsense posted on this site its’s hardly worth participating. I’m about done with this place.

Basic examples. Use the correct diameter clamp for the hose. You don’t just buy any clamp and tighten it up until it stops leaking.