It is for the last item of maintenance you mention that I let go of my 2000 Nighthawk. Great bike and amazing roll on response after 60 mph. The engine actually smooths out at about 70 mph. Not to mention the look of that in line 4 header. Still miss it but not the chain lube and tightening part.
How am I still alive?
- Thread starter Igofar
- Start date
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Igofar
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When I used to ride large displacement, chain driven bikes, like Sportster's, Triumph's, Norton's and even my XR750 HD,, and used the commercial chain lube & wax products, the chains only lasted about 3k-5k miles and needed to be adjusted way too much, and way too often (every month).
It was when I learned from the chain companies, never to use spray products, that turn into lapping compound, and sling off, and grind the chain to death, that my chains started lasting 30k miles, and they only needed to be adjusted about once a year, usually when changing tires etc.
Never use solvents (WD40) degreasers, or harsh chemicals to clean your chain, especially O-ring type chains.
Don't use harsh brushes, even nylon brushes can damage chains by forcing stuff into the O-ring area.
Use Kerosene or Diesel fuel only. Wipe dry, then take a needle oiler and place one drop of 90 weight gear oil on the Inside of the flat plate only. This will lubricate the roller and link contact point, and no dirt or sand will stick to it. Wipe off excess, and forget about it for about 500 miles.
What little flings off and hits the rear rim, simply wipes off and keeps your rim looking clean.
Even Fortnine did a youtube video on testing all chain lubes available, and came to the same conclusion about 90 weight gear oil only.
If you look at just about any owners manual, sure Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, and Kawasaki recommend you buy their spray products, but if you read their owners manuals, they recommend 90 weight gear oil.
Full circle I guess.
I actually enjoy maintaining and cleaning/lubing my chains....its a sickness I say
It was when I learned from the chain companies, never to use spray products, that turn into lapping compound, and sling off, and grind the chain to death, that my chains started lasting 30k miles, and they only needed to be adjusted about once a year, usually when changing tires etc.
Never use solvents (WD40) degreasers, or harsh chemicals to clean your chain, especially O-ring type chains.
Don't use harsh brushes, even nylon brushes can damage chains by forcing stuff into the O-ring area.
Use Kerosene or Diesel fuel only. Wipe dry, then take a needle oiler and place one drop of 90 weight gear oil on the Inside of the flat plate only. This will lubricate the roller and link contact point, and no dirt or sand will stick to it. Wipe off excess, and forget about it for about 500 miles.
What little flings off and hits the rear rim, simply wipes off and keeps your rim looking clean.
Even Fortnine did a youtube video on testing all chain lubes available, and came to the same conclusion about 90 weight gear oil only.
If you look at just about any owners manual, sure Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, and Kawasaki recommend you buy their spray products, but if you read their owners manuals, they recommend 90 weight gear oil.
Full circle I guess.
I actually enjoy maintaining and cleaning/lubing my chains....its a sickness I say
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I came up with my own chain-adjustment method that minimizes slack, which should help maximize mileage, while avoiding over-tightening.
The factory recommends 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches of slack with the bike on the side-stand, but how accurate is that? The ideal slack is as little slack as possible without ever getting tight, so I use my own procedure. I start by lubing it after a warm-up ride, then let it cool, maybe overnight, and on the center stand.
I remove the seat and route a tie-down strap over the bike frame, under the swing-arm on both sides, back over the bike frame, and hook the strap ends together. I then tighten the strap, compressing the rear springs, until the sprockets are in a straight line with the swing-arm pivot, which is where the chain will be tightest.
I then rotate the rear wheel several times while checking the chain for the least slack, as chains don't wear evenly. Once I find the position with the least slack, I adjust the chain for very little play, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch. That's as tight as it can be without the risk of it being too tight. Throttle response is crisp, too.
The factory recommends 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches of slack with the bike on the side-stand, but how accurate is that? The ideal slack is as little slack as possible without ever getting tight, so I use my own procedure. I start by lubing it after a warm-up ride, then let it cool, maybe overnight, and on the center stand.
I remove the seat and route a tie-down strap over the bike frame, under the swing-arm on both sides, back over the bike frame, and hook the strap ends together. I then tighten the strap, compressing the rear springs, until the sprockets are in a straight line with the swing-arm pivot, which is where the chain will be tightest.
I then rotate the rear wheel several times while checking the chain for the least slack, as chains don't wear evenly. Once I find the position with the least slack, I adjust the chain for very little play, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch. That's as tight as it can be without the risk of it being too tight. Throttle response is crisp, too.
I mounted a Tutoro automatic oiler on my VStrom and don't even think about lubing the chain any more. Surprisingly, bathed in the drip drip of oil, the chain looks clean. The small reservoir of oil lasts around 700 to 1000 miles.
DavidR8
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I had a Scottoiler on my Triumph Tiger. Worked perfectly.