How do I disassemble this

[Me_cmc]

The item in the two top pictures is the oem bar end from my emergency backup bike, aprilia tuono. I’m trying to replace it with the item at bottom (slider to help protect levers in tip-over). I need to use the oem bolt, but I cannot separate it from the black weight. You can see the scratch on the weight from where I held it while I tried to loosen the bolt, fruitlessly. Any ideas?

thanks

 

[rogo]

Impact gun?

 

[Kevin_56]

Impact gun?

Or impact driver like this.

 

[Me_cmc]

I don’t believe, but I’m not completely sure, that the problem is not that I can’t put enough force on it, but that there’s some kind of trick to it, such as a hidden circlip or magnetic release.

 

[Kevin_56]

I don’t believe, but I’m not completely sure, that the problem is not that I can’t put enough force on it, but that there’s some kind of trick to it, such as a hidden circlip or magnetic release.

I had a fork cap that I could not loosen. Was using the correct allen wrench and breaker bar. Top clamp loose. Would not turn, or budge. Removed fork and took it to my Honda Mechanic friend. 1 minute late he handed me the fork tube back with cap loosened. He used the same tool I linked in above post.

Force and impact force are two different animals. Hope you get it loosened.

 

[Me_cmc]

I’ll give it a try, I do have one of those wrenches. Thanks.

 

[ReSTored]

I'b be looking for the aprilia tuono forum to ask

 

[Me_cmc]

I'b be looking for the aprilia tuono forum to ask

Yeah, they’re nowhere near as helpful or knowledgeable as this forum.

 

[NMSTrider]

Is it left-hand thread?

 

[jonjonboo]

Determine what size bolt and get another- chances are your gonna destroy that one anyway

 

[naedlaen]

Heat! I bet that a thread locker was used in the small bolt into the larger bolt. The bigger issue appears to be finding the purchase on the piece with the larger threads.

(Edit) It appears that the larger piece is threaded in the middle for the smaller socket head bolt that goes through the black piece

 

[BakerBoy]

Or impact driver like this.

This.

I believe the bar-end weights are 3 parts (of which you see all 3). The small allen-head bolt threads inside the large bolt, securing the bar end weight onto the hex head of the large bolt.

The hard part will be holding the OD of the bar end weight while attempting to whack-loosen the allen head bolt with the impact-driver.

If the exposed male threads of the large bolt are not left handed, likely the threads internal to it (the threads of the allen head) won't be left handed either.

Good luck.

 

[BakerBoy]

Looked for parts diagrams, but not knowing which version/year Tuono...
One parts diagram (page 67) shows what is likely the typical construction:

AF1 Racing. 20TV4Factory OEM Parts Diagram

www.af1racing.com

Item 5 may be a common Metric 6 x 40 allen head bolt (not left handed).

 

[The Dan]

Just get a new bolt now that you know the size. M6x40

 

[jfheath]

Two thoughts.

If that is the end of the long allen bolt in the first picture - it may have a thread locking agent applied.
A long soak in hot water will help to sort that - (and after you have got dried, you can tackle the bolt).

Also - find a couple of nuts that fit that large thread. Put one on and then tighten the other hard against it. You can then hold the nuts while you tackle the allen bolt.

 

[BakerBoy]

^I had similar thought jfh.

I suspect that the assembly is meant to be installed as follows:
1) install bolt 3 into handlebars
2) torque bolt 3 to xx ft-lb
3) slip anti-vib weight 4 over hex-head of bolt 3
4) insert weight fastening bolt 5
5) torque bolt 5 to x ft-lb (to properly seat it into bolt 3)

My guess is that if step 2 isn't done, *later* when the whole assembly unexpectedly starts threading out of the bar end, someone will inevitably try to seat bolt 3 into the bar end using undersized the allen socket of bolt 5. Ie, seating bolt 3 with the socket head of bolt 5 will overtighten bolt 5 into bolt 3, but will still not get bolt 3 to stay seated in the bar end.

Fast forward to now... the OP needs to remove bolt 5, but bolt 3 easliy unthreads from the bar end as it is not torqued correctly (and bolt 5 was overtorqued into bolt 3 trying to get bolt 3 torqued into the handlebar). Now bolt 5 won't come out without a fight or damage.

Guessing.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Just get a new bolt now that you know the size. M6x40

I would just make sure it is stainless steel.
In our area Ace Hardware usually has the best selections of Metric Stainless Steel bolts.
That way you don't bugger up your original bar weights.
If not, EBay usually has been a 'backup' source for those I can't find locally.

 

[SMSW]

This is how I would do it. I'm going to make a few assumptions since this information was not provided - all parts are metal (#3 looks like it is plastic) and @BakerBoy is correct - #5 is jammed into #3.

We have a cheap piece of rubber that one uses to remove jar lids by placing this over the top of the jar - it provides a nonslip grip. I've purloined it on occasion to wrap around a finished piece of metal to give a non-slip grip. Wrap the weight in something similar - rubber gasket material, a mouse pad, etc, add some more padding around the outside and chuck it in a vise. Use your wrench carefully. Add gentle heat as @naedlaen suggested with a hair dryer.

I cannot tell if the finish is simply 'sanded' stainless steel or there is some coloring. If the former, you can get some fine sandpaper - 220 or 320 and restore a similar finish by sanding all over.

 

[Me_cmc]

I knew you guys were better than the tuono group! Thanks very much to all responders, and especially for spelling “vise” correctly. What I decided to do, since my my vise got shot off in the war, is go to that af1 site—which I’m not sure I ever knew about—and I ordered the bolts. So that’s resolved, and you guys helped me solve another problem. Now if I can just figure out why the site is called “AF?”

thanks again to the st-owners community!

 

[ST Gui]

Aprilia Formula 1 Racing?