Is there a how to on replacing the rear brake pads? Do you have to remove the wheel or can you slip the calipers of without doing that?
Thanks
Randy
Thanks
Randy
I have to disagree. With all the problems here with sticking rear brakes and with how nasty those pistons get with brake dust and road grime, you should clean them. It's easy enough, just takes more time. You REALLY don't want to shove that stuff, coated the entire length of the piston, into the dust seal and hope it wipes it all off.Much is made of cleaning the pistons prior to retracting them but the dust seals Honda designed do a good job living in the exposed environment back there and get the job done.
Of all the threads to date (01/16/2014), I believe that "racer1735's" is the most accurate and comprehensive. I would just like to add some detail, regarding required mounting bolt (2 bolts) and pin (1 bolt) removal, as I just replaced the rear caliper pads on my 2004 ST1300 and found that the following 2 mounting bolts (#1 & #3 below) and pad-retaining bolt (#2 below, also referred to as a pin) are required for complete caliper removal from the mounting bracket and off the rotor (without the need for rear axle removal):I changed rear pads and cleaned the caliper without removing the wheel. I first removed the original pads. Then removed the caliper mounting bolts. Had enough free play in the lines where I could 'rotate' the caliper away from the wheel (basically held it above the left muffler) and scrub it with brake fluid on a toothbrush. Sprayed it all down with brake cleaner and blew it dry with compressed air (of course, I had plenty of towels laying on top of the exhaust to keep any spills away). I then placed the old pads back in the caliper, took a short tire spoon and gently compressed the pistons back into the caliper. Removed the old pads, placed the caliper back into position and re-inserted the caliper mounting bolts finger tight. Put new pads in (you'll know when they are in properly because the holes for the pad pin will line up properly) replaced the pin and torqued both the bolts and the pin to spec. Takes about 15 minutes.
Old pad on the pistons, bit of rubber matting on the outside of the caliper and a C clamp works nicely. It does mean that you have to remove the caliper, but it works well and compresses everything evenly.How in the world do the rest of you compress the cylinders safely? By hand (just grab the old pads and squeeze)?
It also makes it easier to clean off the pistons before you shove 'em back into the bores...It does mean that you have to remove the caliper, but it works well and compresses everything evenly.
+1 - Brake dust can be quite corrosive over time. I've used a very light smear of the Moly 60 for years. It is a high temp grease and stays in place. +1 on the C clamp to push the pistons in too.I'll stand by the theory that a very light film of grease on the pins isn't bad. In addition to giving a little help to the pads themselves, it actually keeps the brake dust from accumulating and sticking to the pin (and can be easily wiped off when the pin is removed, as opposed to having to scrub the dust off the bare pin).
Of all the threads to date (01/16/2014), I believe that "racer1735's" is the most accurate and comprehensive. I would just like to add some detail, regarding required mounting bolt (2 bolts) and pin (1 bolt) removal, as I just replaced the rear caliper pads on my 2004 ST1300 and found that the following 2 mounting bolts (#1 & #3 below) and pad-retaining bolt (#2 below, also referred to as a pin) are required for complete caliper removal from the mounting bracket and off the rotor (without the need for rear axle removal):
1. forward caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 14mm socket (bolt head is exposed, counterclockwise to loosen).
2. rear caliper pad-retaining bolt (pin), requiring a 6mm allen wrench (rubber cap must first be removed to expose the bolt head, counterclockwise to loosen) - note, this is the only bolt required for removal of the pads - the other two bolts secure the caliper to the mounting bracket.
3. bottom caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 12mm open-end wrench (the 12mm head is located in the middle of the bolt, counterclockwise to loosen). I wish someone would have told me about this unique bolt.
Although only removal of bolt #2 above (requiring a 6mm allen wrench) is required for pad removal, removal of bolts #1 & #3 above allow one to access the 3 caliper pistons for cleaning with the dot 4 brake fluid, prior to retracting the pistons to allow room for insertion of the new pads.
So, what would you use to clean the brakes?I will have to dissagree with a couple things.....spraying brake cleaner may cause the seals to swell....you should use a 5mm allen and not a 6mm one....the calipers should not me taken apart for Any service....yes, the units should always be cleaned....correctly. and nobody has said anything about the sliding dowels being cleaned and greased....as far as pushing the pistons in....push in the center on the caliper against the rotor.