I am having a difficult time trying to separate the right engine side exhaust pipe from the collection box under the bike. It won't budge. Any advice as to how to separate them? Thanks
I assemble all with a good smear of copper paste, first clean (wire brush) and then apply copper spray on the exposed threads of the clamp bolts every time the rear wheel comes out; no problem since.I spray them with wd 40 at oil change time, every time.
What is 'copper spray'? I used Permatex anti seize (the gray one) on the bolts when they are loosened, but if I'm not taking the mufflers off then they just get a spray of wd 40 at oil change time.I assemble all with a good smear of copper paste, first clean (wire brush) and then apply copper spray on the exposed threads of the clamp bolts every time the rear wheel comes out; no problem since.
What is 'copper spray'?
LOL! :lol:What is 'copper spray'?
Keeps them from getting Helmet Hair.I think that is something used on the police models....
Keeps them from getting Helmet Hair.
Excellent advice, as usual ST1100Y. Those using WD40 for rusted applications......not advisable as this product is just intended o be used for water displacement, hence the name WD. Otherwise it eventually WILL eat away at the metal. An excellent choice for these type of situations is Kroil(comes in a can with nipple on end). Has been around for many a decade now and can be gotten at many locations(Tru-Valu, Wal-Mat, etc.).LOL! :lol:
Basically the same as paste, but in thinner viscosity, seeping into nooks and crannies
https://eshop.wuerth.at/Kupferspray-CU-800-PAST-CU-800-SPR-300ML/0893800.sku/de/DE/EUR/
(also for applying a nice thin layer on the backside of brake-pads to avoid squeak)
Prefer it for its heat- and water resistance, whilst on an exhaust WD-40 only makes a hiss ... :wink:
Likely the exhaust corroded through, to the steel mesh inside the graphite seal bushings...When I spoke to him last night, he's still trying to get it apart.